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Old 09-26-2010, 07:25 AM   #9781
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What the hell, are you back running the Tamiya????
In a word, yes.

The losi really wasn't a bad car when it worked... It just didn't work that well very often! As much as I tried to convince myself that the short arms etc wouldn't be a problem, with hindsight, it always would be. Also a dawning realisation that (and this is no fault of the cars) that it just wasn't built to work at its best with high torque brushless motors and LiPo. When a diff can't last more than 4mins, its a bit of an issue.
On a positive spin, learnt a load more about what makes a car tick (which in some respects lead to the discovery of the limitations, IMO, with the R), and am certainly driving a lot better, even if the result haven't shown it over the season. Also proud to have been given the opportunity to run the R, and to have stuck with it for the whole season, but the above problems mean I've taken a decision to go back to what I'm used to, and hopefully have a easier time of it along the way

Anyway, picked up a second hand X to run over the winter, and will then pick up a 417 for next outdoor season. Trying to remind myself what I need to do, its amazing what you forget after only a few months!

Ed
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Old 09-26-2010, 07:33 AM   #9782
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See Ed, Talking to me is damaging to your wallet
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Old 09-26-2010, 07:38 AM   #9783
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Sweep will give you more mid corner steering, esp in fast sweepers. Normally you would change both front and rear blocks to maintain the same track, so use D/B rather than C/C for example

How much sweep is ideal? I heard 1mm to 1.5mm. Also I'm not sure what the out of the box track width is. How do i figure out what Front and rear blocks to use to maintain my same track width. The chart doesn't give the track widths just the amount of toe it yields. Is there maybe another chart that provides what blocks yield what track width.
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Old 09-26-2010, 08:26 AM   #9784
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How much sweep is ideal? I heard 1mm to 1.5mm. Also I'm not sure what the out of the box track width is. How do i figure out what Front and rear blocks to use to maintain my same track width. The chart doesn't give the track widths just the amount of toe it yields. Is there maybe another chart that provides what blocks yield what track width.
I do not like running a lot of sweep in this car...I find C/D is good
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Old 09-26-2010, 12:32 PM   #9785
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Welcome back
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In a word, yes.

The losi really wasn't a bad car when it worked... It just didn't work that well very often! As much as I tried to convince myself that the short arms etc wouldn't be a problem, with hindsight, it always would be. Also a dawning realisation that (and this is no fault of the cars) that it just wasn't built to work at its best with high torque brushless motors and LiPo. When a diff can't last more than 4mins, its a bit of an issue.
On a positive spin, learnt a load more about what makes a car tick (which in some respects lead to the discovery of the limitations, IMO, with the R), and am certainly driving a lot better, even if the result haven't shown it over the season. Also proud to have been given the opportunity to run the R, and to have stuck with it for the whole season, but the above problems mean I've taken a decision to go back to what I'm used to, and hopefully have a easier time of it along the way

Anyway, picked up a second hand X to run over the winter, and will then pick up a 417 for next outdoor season. Trying to remind myself what I need to do, its amazing what you forget after only a few months!

Ed
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Old 09-26-2010, 01:44 PM   #9786
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Yes Sweep no good !
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Old 09-26-2010, 07:07 PM   #9787
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Hey guys I'm considering a 417 and I was wondering how the quality is with Taymiya? I'm use to Xray's great fit/finish. I hate to try something new, but I read great things about it. Are the diffs covered? What are it's problem areas?
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Old 09-26-2010, 07:34 PM   #9788
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Hey guys I'm considering a 417 and I was wondering how the quality is with Taymiya? I'm use to Xray's great fit/finish. I hate to try something new, but I read great things about it. Are the diffs covered? What are it's problem areas?
tamiya is good but the plastic is fragile like the rear uprights and caster blocks
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Old 09-26-2010, 07:35 PM   #9789
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Hey guys I'm considering a 417 and I was wondering how the quality is with Taymiya? I'm use to Xray's great fit/finish. I hate to try something new, but I read great things about it. Are the diffs covered? What are it's problem areas?
You should probably just get an XRay. The Tamiya is a great car, but it's not the right choice for people that want highest level of fit and finish. It's for people that want to win.
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Old 09-26-2010, 07:44 PM   #9790
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Welcome back Ed, I'm now off to open a psychic hotline

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p.s. my prediction is that you'll be back... I've been there
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Old 09-26-2010, 07:50 PM   #9791
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You should probably just get an XRay. The Tamiya is a great car, but it's not the right choice for people that want highest level of fit and finish. It's for people that want to win.
That is one way to put it
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Old 09-26-2010, 08:00 PM   #9792
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I've only broke plastic once. A full throttle smack on the left front and that would take the front left of any car!!! I have bent ball studs on my rear uprights but never broke one. Spool cups are the only real thing I go through more then my Xray's

syndr0me, I hope you guys reconsider coming to the Timezone Grand Prix! This is the year that its going to be put on the map. We will make sure you guys have fun as well I don't feel like being the only Tamiya on the track other then my buddies Evo 5MS...
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Old 09-26-2010, 08:10 PM   #9793
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I've only broke plastic once. A full throttle smack on the left front and that would take the front left of any car!!! I have bent ball studs on my rear uprights but never broke one. Spool cups are the only real thing I go through more then my Xray's

syndr0me, I hope you guys reconsider coming to the Timezone Grand Prix! This is the year that its going to be put on the map. We will make sure you guys have fun as well I don't feel like being the only Tamiya on the track other then my buddies Evo 5MS...
Don't forget Mike Malkinson he got the 416X as well...
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Old 09-26-2010, 08:14 PM   #9794
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I've only broke plastic once. A full throttle smack on the left front and that would take the front left of any car!!! I have bent ball studs on my rear uprights but never broke one. Spool cups are the only real thing I go through more then my Xray's

syndr0me, I hope you guys reconsider coming to the Timezone Grand Prix! This is the year that its going to be put on the map. We will make sure you guys have fun as well I don't feel like being the only Tamiya on the track other then my buddies Evo 5MS...
I went to the steel ball studs all the way around, and use the kingpin ball studs in the steering rack. In the front I use the Square chubs, but other than that, the car is stock. If you haven't tried using 46mm steel bones up front, it's definitely worth a go. The 44's destroy spool cups. My car almost never breaks, and I hit some *ish pretty hard.

I really wanted to go to TZGP, but it's a pretty expensive trip, and I'm running low on vacation days this year. I've been practicing some mod, but I'm not ready to be a factor just yet. I would love to run some SS with you guys sometime. I think I'm gonna save a few bucks (and some vacation) and hit Snowbirds & Reedy. Or maybe carpet nats depending on where it's at.
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Old 09-26-2010, 08:25 PM   #9795
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Don't forget Mike Malkinson he got the 416X as well...
Ok that makes two of us... Still very slim on the Tamiya cars... Also the guys from Southern OR I guess if the make it up.

Still though, the more of us the better!
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