Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
#9571
Tech Master
iTrader: (17)
I haven't tried the two back to back. Have you tried Gold's up front? If your bite is high enough running gold/silver will really increase your corner speed and the car should feel like it has more steering. If running Gold's make it feel pushy, like there is too much rear traction, use shims to raise your rear roll center another .5-1mm under the toe blocks.
#9572
No I haven't had a chance, but I did write a build review
http://tchub.wordpress.com/2010/08/2...ar-diff-build/
http://tchub.wordpress.com/2010/08/2...ar-diff-build/
#9573
pics of 416 37T pulley with photon gear diff.
pardon the dirt
pardon the dirt
#9574
Tech Elite
iTrader: (88)
SJR 36's and 40's. I ran this set up but felt the car was soft (more roll that I am comfortable with) and did not have enough steering. The steering part is irrelevant, due to the fact that a after race rebuilt/inspection found both front CVD pins pulled out of the hole and were binding inside the hub. Must not have got a good tighten on them or something
Before next race, I have lowered the front inner camber link, 700-500, gear diff. Still kinda up in the air on what else to do. I don't know much on how the 416 acts to changes yet, so I am just trowing stuff at it until it works.
Before next race, I have lowered the front inner camber link, 700-500, gear diff. Still kinda up in the air on what else to do. I don't know much on how the 416 acts to changes yet, so I am just trowing stuff at it until it works.
Give it a try you might like it...
http://projectgreenracing.com/PGR/Re...X%20Norcal.pdf
#9575
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
When I get around to it I think I'll try and make a hybrid gear diff.
Spec-R casing
Spec-R outdrives
3R shims
3R gears
This would give you the hard outdrives that take the 3mm blades, a casing that doesn't need to be shimmed to fit the 416, and the best internals. Whether or not it'll all work together remains to be seen
For high traction Jilles' setup is a very good starting point as far as geometry goes. Try the thick oil, you may want even thicker like 800wt. I ran 600 all round recently on high traction and needed to go way thicker, but didn't have any. Running x/d will also really free the rear up if steering remains a problem.
As for your cvds, get the TOP pin retainers. Not only do they give you certainty that your pins wont move, they give you more steering and they make rebuilding a breeze. They are probably the favourite thing I have on my car
Spec-R casing
Spec-R outdrives
3R shims
3R gears
This would give you the hard outdrives that take the 3mm blades, a casing that doesn't need to be shimmed to fit the 416, and the best internals. Whether or not it'll all work together remains to be seen
As for your cvds, get the TOP pin retainers. Not only do they give you certainty that your pins wont move, they give you more steering and they make rebuilding a breeze. They are probably the favourite thing I have on my car
#9576
Tech Master
iTrader: (17)
I personally found that Jilles setup to have too much roll as well on higher traction surfaces...Check my setup from Nats...traction was really high and the tires were solaris Hards. To run Sorexs I would just remove the front sweep and a little less camber other then that this setup is pretty good.
Give it a try you might like it...
http://projectgreenracing.com/PGR/Re...X%20Norcal.pdf
Give it a try you might like it...
http://projectgreenracing.com/PGR/Re...X%20Norcal.pdf
For high traction Jilles' setup is a very good starting point as far as geometry goes. Try the thick oil, you may want even thicker like 800wt. I ran 600 all round recently on high traction and needed to go way thicker, but didn't have any. Running x/d will also really free the rear up if steering remains a problem.
As for your cvds, get the TOP pin retainers. Not only do they give you certainty that your pins wont move, they give you more steering and they make rebuilding a breeze. They are probably the favourite thing I have on my car
As for your cvds, get the TOP pin retainers. Not only do they give you certainty that your pins wont move, they give you more steering and they make rebuilding a breeze. They are probably the favourite thing I have on my car
#9577
ONE 416X lipo chassis came in...may be a little while...
#9579
Tech Regular
iTrader: (2)
tried the spec-r gear diff on my 416x today at local track.... got more corner speed and seems to be leak free at this stage gone through 2 packs
....use 2 shims per side and greased up o-rings and also use gasket glue on gasket...will see how long it will be leak free
....use 2 shims per side and greased up o-rings and also use gasket glue on gasket...will see how long it will be leak free
#9581
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
I'm hoping the 3r gear diff is just as good, I love the Spec R but it got sloppy so fast. I know the gears are like $5 but the whole point of the gear diff is so you don't have to rebuild it
#9582
Hi All,
I am looking to purchase a 416X kit. Been looking through setup sheets and besides the kit suspension blocks, 1D blocks are used as well. Are there any other suspension blocks that are essential to have?
Thanks...
I am looking to purchase a 416X kit. Been looking through setup sheets and besides the kit suspension blocks, 1D blocks are used as well. Are there any other suspension blocks that are essential to have?
Thanks...
#9584
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
It'll probably still leak a bit through the orings, but not too much. I wonder when the new clear orings will be available
I'm hoping the 3r gear diff is just as good, I love the Spec R but it got sloppy so fast. I know the gears are like $5 but the whole point of the gear diff is so you don't have to rebuild it
I'm hoping the 3r gear diff is just as good, I love the Spec R but it got sloppy so fast. I know the gears are like $5 but the whole point of the gear diff is so you don't have to rebuild it
#9585