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Old 08-23-2010, 09:43 AM   #9571
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I haven't tried the two back to back. Have you tried Gold's up front? If your bite is high enough running gold/silver will really increase your corner speed and the car should feel like it has more steering. If running Gold's make it feel pushy, like there is too much rear traction, use shims to raise your rear roll center another .5-1mm under the toe blocks.
That sounds good, I may have to try golds.
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Old 08-23-2010, 10:01 AM   #9572
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No I haven't had a chance, but I did write a build review

http://tchub.wordpress.com/2010/08/2...ar-diff-build/
nice write up looking forward to more
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Old 08-23-2010, 10:17 AM   #9573
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pics of 416 37T pulley with photon gear diff.
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Old 08-23-2010, 12:58 PM   #9574
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SJR 36's and 40's. I ran this set up but felt the car was soft (more roll that I am comfortable with) and did not have enough steering. The steering part is irrelevant, due to the fact that a after race rebuilt/inspection found both front CVD pins pulled out of the hole and were binding inside the hub. Must not have got a good tighten on them or something

Before next race, I have lowered the front inner camber link, 700-500, gear diff. Still kinda up in the air on what else to do. I don't know much on how the 416 acts to changes yet, so I am just trowing stuff at it until it works.
I personally found that Jilles setup to have too much roll as well on higher traction surfaces...Check my setup from Nats...traction was really high and the tires were solaris Hards. To run Sorexs I would just remove the front sweep and a little less camber other then that this setup is pretty good.

Give it a try you might like it...

http://projectgreenracing.com/PGR/Re...X%20Norcal.pdf
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Old 08-23-2010, 06:28 PM   #9575
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When I get around to it I think I'll try and make a hybrid gear diff.

Spec-R casing
Spec-R outdrives
3R shims
3R gears

This would give you the hard outdrives that take the 3mm blades, a casing that doesn't need to be shimmed to fit the 416, and the best internals. Whether or not it'll all work together remains to be seen

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Originally Posted by Owen RaCing View Post
Before next race, I have lowered the front inner camber link, 700-500, gear diff. Still kinda up in the air on what else to do. I don't know much on how the 416 acts to changes yet, so I am just trowing stuff at it until it works.
For high traction Jilles' setup is a very good starting point as far as geometry goes. Try the thick oil, you may want even thicker like 800wt. I ran 600 all round recently on high traction and needed to go way thicker, but didn't have any. Running x/d will also really free the rear up if steering remains a problem.

As for your cvds, get the TOP pin retainers. Not only do they give you certainty that your pins wont move, they give you more steering and they make rebuilding a breeze. They are probably the favourite thing I have on my car
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Old 08-23-2010, 06:46 PM   #9576
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I personally found that Jilles setup to have too much roll as well on higher traction surfaces...Check my setup from Nats...traction was really high and the tires were solaris Hards. To run Sorexs I would just remove the front sweep and a little less camber other then that this setup is pretty good.

Give it a try you might like it...

http://projectgreenracing.com/PGR/Re...X%20Norcal.pdf
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Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
For high traction Jilles' setup is a very good starting point as far as geometry goes. Try the thick oil, you may want even thicker like 800wt. I ran 600 all round recently on high traction and needed to go way thicker, but didn't have any. Running x/d will also really free the rear up if steering remains a problem.

As for your cvds, get the TOP pin retainers. Not only do they give you certainty that your pins wont move, they give you more steering and they make rebuilding a breeze. They are probably the favourite thing I have on my car
Thanks both of you, I will be trying these suggestions. Can't wait to get more track time on this car, I really like it.
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Old 08-24-2010, 11:35 AM   #9577
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ONE 416X lipo chassis came in...may be a little while...
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Old 08-24-2010, 06:56 PM   #9578
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anyone know where i can find the new lipo chassis in the states speedtech is sold out
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Old 08-24-2010, 07:08 PM   #9579
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tried the spec-r gear diff on my 416x today at local track.... got more corner speed and seems to be leak free at this stage gone through 2 packs
....use 2 shims per side and greased up o-rings and also use gasket glue on gasket...will see how long it will be leak free
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Old 08-24-2010, 07:42 PM   #9580
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3racing geardiff instock here
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Old 08-24-2010, 09:10 PM   #9581
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Originally Posted by TRF4evr View Post
tried the spec-r gear diff on my 416x today at local track.... got more corner speed and seems to be leak free at this stage gone through 2 packs
....use 2 shims per side and greased up o-rings and also use gasket glue on gasket...will see how long it will be leak free
It'll probably still leak a bit through the orings, but not too much. I wonder when the new clear orings will be available

I'm hoping the 3r gear diff is just as good, I love the Spec R but it got sloppy so fast. I know the gears are like $5 but the whole point of the gear diff is so you don't have to rebuild it
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Old 08-24-2010, 10:53 PM   #9582
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Hi All,

I am looking to purchase a 416X kit. Been looking through setup sheets and besides the kit suspension blocks, 1D blocks are used as well. Are there any other suspension blocks that are essential to have?

Thanks...
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Old 08-25-2010, 07:55 AM   #9583
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Hi All,

I am looking to purchase a 416X kit. Been looking through setup sheets and besides the kit suspension blocks, 1D blocks are used as well. Are there any other suspension blocks that are essential to have?

Thanks...
Except for a 1D at the very back of the car (to give 2.5* rear toe) I am using the stock blocks all around. It's nice to have a couple spares because I've seen people bend them.
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Old 08-25-2010, 09:10 AM   #9584
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Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
It'll probably still leak a bit through the orings, but not too much. I wonder when the new clear orings will be available

I'm hoping the 3r gear diff is just as good, I love the Spec R but it got sloppy so fast. I know the gears are like $5 but the whole point of the gear diff is so you don't have to rebuild it
They do have new o-rings out but they are not clear. I haven't had the chance to run them yet but I will this weekend.
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Old 08-25-2010, 11:21 AM   #9585
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Except for a 1D at the very back of the car (to give 2.5* rear toe) I am using the stock blocks all around. It's nice to have a couple spares because I've seen people bend them.
Thank you.
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