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Old 07-13-2010, 12:23 PM   #9256
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Do you remove the brace completely, or do you just leave the screw out of the top deck? I would think this would actually create more grip rather than free the car up as it is allowing the chassis to flex more.

Everything else I agree with and run on my WE (almost flat camber links, etc.). I run the rear roll centers .5mm higher under the toe blocks than the kit specs.

I think just taking out the screw creates some inconsistent feels in the car, I think do to the rubbing the top of the brace will do with the top deck. Removing the brace allows the car to flex more and and such seems to generate some additional grip up front. It is so easy to swap out that it will only take a few minutes and then you can run back to back and see if you can feel the differences.

As far as Ackerman I don't mess with this much...I have tried more and less and I usually end up back at 5mm. If it was easier to change then I might try it more often, but I honestly don't love changing this on the car.

Shimming the rear hexes out is a solid idea as well. This is something I am gonna test tonight to see if I can help the car to rotate this way too.
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Old 07-13-2010, 01:53 PM   #9257
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I add half mil spacers to the rear hexes as an easy way to free up the rear end.

How do you take the brace off? I bought my 416 used and while I did rebuild the car from the ground up, I left the steering rack on the chassis so I have never assembled that part... I want to give that a try. I drive with the screw taken out of the brace but I could see how it might cause tweak issues. Is the steering rack still firmly held in place without the brace?
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Old 07-13-2010, 03:31 PM   #9258
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One thing I've noticed is that people don't use wheel spacers nearly enough. I 100% all of the time use 0.5mm in the back and 0.5-1mm front depending on how much steering I have. With the steering brace, I find that no brace makes the car a little inconsistent and the best solution is a carbon brace like the smokem one. This gives more steering than running the brace with no screw but keeps the steering predictable.

To free the X up I've been running narrower at the front by 0.5mm and have the rear shocks laid down an extra hole. Depending on the track I also run the same springs front and rear more often than I used to
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Old 07-13-2010, 11:55 PM   #9259
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Photo From Japan
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Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X-1007111111bde64c13a03aef6c.jpg  
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Old 07-14-2010, 12:18 AM   #9260
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Photo From Japan
nice how much is it and is it compatible with the W.E or just the X?
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Old 07-14-2010, 12:21 AM   #9261
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Photo From Japan
Is it available somewhere?
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Old 07-14-2010, 01:11 AM   #9262
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AUG
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Old 07-14-2010, 01:20 AM   #9263
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They are available now.... I have mine.
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Old 07-14-2010, 01:24 AM   #9264
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nice how much is it and is it compatible with the W.E or just the X?
You can see the pricetag in the photo, 14360 yen which will be around 140$ street price. The chassi plate works on the WE but the included upperdeck does not.
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Old 07-14-2010, 02:07 AM   #9265
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where is it available and is it worth getting?
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Old 07-14-2010, 02:45 AM   #9266
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They are available now.... I have mine.
Where did you buy it from?

cheers
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Old 07-14-2010, 04:07 AM   #9267
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Where did you buy it from?

cheers
Pro Shop Futaba - Japan.
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Old 07-14-2010, 12:33 PM   #9268
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So I wanted to provide some feedback on some testing a couple of us were doing last night. We (Syndr0me and I) were testing on CRC carpet with Jaco Rubber tires. The main focus was to try different diff positions in the rear of the car. What we found was very interesting...when the diff is in the low position (Dot up) the car was very stuck and seemed to almost stop mid corner. With the diff in the high position (Dot down) it really freed the rear end of the car in a very dramatic way. I was really surprised how different it made the car feel on the track. The diff in the high position made the car pretty hard to drive, but it was pretty fast. The diff in the high position off power made the car feel unpredictable.

At the end of the night we both ended up the way we started which was the rear diff in the low position.

Anyway just wanted to provide some insight into our testing and I would say that you should give it a try to see if it could be the next change that you need to go a little faster.

Testing was done on a stock 416X and 416X with WE rear bulkeds and two piece top deck. Results were very similar...
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Old 07-14-2010, 12:36 PM   #9269
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AUG had release w/o oneway
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Old 07-14-2010, 12:37 PM   #9270
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My car seemed to lose stability off power, especially when braking a bit at the end of the straight (short sweeper). It's definitely a trick I'll keep around for freeing up the car, but might not go to it first.

I tried going back to the X parts on my car and it wouldn't turn. With the WE parts and split top deck, it was a huge improvement. Artwork is doing the same kinds of laps with his X, though, so it's all just a matter of style and preference I suppose. I've grown to really like cars that dig in hard and turn over the nose. Artwork seems to prefer a bit more neutral car.
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