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Old 04-20-2010, 03:51 PM   #8716
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hi everyone, i recently purchase my first touring chassis, the trf416we. I want to first thank everyone especially the input given by factory drivers on this forum. My car handles amazingly as i always take 1st second or 3rd at my local hobby races. I everyone has lipos and brushles motors an i still have old school brushed with NIMH batteries.

My only question i have is if i remove the wheel hex adapters that are .5 mm on all 4 corners. will i feel an actuall difference in the handling charateristics/? also if a remove the front wheel hex adapters (.5mm) from just the front end and leave them still in the rear, what will happen in regards to the way in handles?

i have tried .5mm on all 4 corners and .5mm removed on all 4. I also tried .5mm in rear only with adapters removed up front. I did notice a very very small difference in the the way car turns but can anyone actually describe in words what these differences in the handling actually are>?

Input will be much apreciated, also ive seen Jilles setup up sheet and in one race he ran .1mm in the front corners and .5mm in the back. so there must be some handling differences if people like himself are taking this into consideration. Thank you to all at rectech

just copy and paste this to the end of youtubes url -->

watch?v=O4314qpA3wg

I am unable to post complete urls since i am new to this website.

this is a video of my last race which i actually had electrical motor issues which caused me to start from last place grid in the final heat race.
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Old 04-20-2010, 05:08 PM   #8717
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http://www.redrc.net/2010/04/cefx-ev...16/#more-30337

Yikes, not much 416 left on it but it's cool nonetheless
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Old 04-20-2010, 05:15 PM   #8718
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HoboShop View Post
Would anybody happen to have a food starting set-up for a 416 we for a small-medium track with low traction. I am running rubber tires.
Jilles' base asphalt setup works very well on that sort of track, most of us run the HPI springs though, silver front and blue rear are a good starting point, I hear for WE gold front are the ticket as it has a bit more steering than the other 416s and the golds mellow that out

http://www.thard.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=198#p664

Quote:
Originally Posted by composite View Post
My only question i have is if i remove the wheel hex adapters that are .5 mm on all 4 corners. will i feel an actuall difference in the handling charateristics/? also if a remove the front wheel hex adapters (.5mm) from just the front end and leave them still in the rear, what will happen in regards to the way in handles?
With less spacers the car will roll more at that end, so front will give you more steering to a point and rear will provide more rear grip. Removing them from both ends will feel similar to using softer springs or lower roll centres all around. 0.5mm is a fairly slight adjustment and is good for fine tuning once your car is pretty well sorted.
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Old 04-20-2010, 05:21 PM   #8719
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Quote:
Originally Posted by composite View Post
hi everyone, i recently purchase my first touring chassis, the trf416we. I want to first thank everyone especially the input given by factory drivers on this forum. My car handles amazingly as i always take 1st second or 3rd at my local hobby races. I everyone has lipos and brushles motors an i still have old school brushed with NIMH batteries.

My only question i have is if i remove the wheel hex adapters that are .5 mm on all 4 corners. will i feel an actuall difference in the handling charateristics/? also if a remove the front wheel hex adapters (.5mm) from just the front end and leave them still in the rear, what will happen in regards to the way in handles?

i have tried .5mm on all 4 corners and .5mm removed on all 4. I also tried .5mm in rear only with adapters removed up front. I did notice a very very small difference in the the way car turns but can anyone actually describe in words what these differences in the handling actually are>?

Input will be much apreciated, also ive seen Jilles setup up sheet and in one race he ran .1mm in the front corners and .5mm in the back. so there must be some handling differences if people like himself are taking this into consideration. Thank you to all at rectech

just copy and paste this to the end of youtubes url -->

watch?v=O4314qpA3wg

I am unable to post complete urls since i am new to this website.

this is a video of my last race which i actually had electrical motor issues which caused me to start from last place grid in the final heat race.
Generally with a wider rear it gives the car more steering, on a track like DHW where traction is very low it would be a very subtle difference, on a track with higher traction you would gain more noticable difference.

Nice Video
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Old 04-20-2010, 05:44 PM   #8720
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
http://www.redrc.net/2010/04/cefx-ev...16/#more-30337

Yikes, not much 416 left on it but it's cool nonetheless
What a waste of original parts! It does look wild..i like
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Old 04-21-2010, 07:57 AM   #8721
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hi guys.

i need some advice.

what do you guys use to make a hole in the rear upright for the set screw to go in? what is the best method? any tips would be appreciated!

thanks.
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Old 04-21-2010, 09:00 AM   #8722
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Thanks for the input : )
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Old 04-21-2010, 10:13 AM   #8723
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doriftu View Post
hi guys.

i need some advice.

what do you guys use to make a hole in the rear upright for the set screw to go in? what is the best method? any tips would be appreciated!

thanks.
Usually the hole is already there, you just have to clean the very thin skin left from the molding out, which usually just pops out when you screw the set screw in. I usually run the set screw in first, out of the car and then make sure that small piece of plastic is clear so the shaft goes thru with out interference.
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Old 04-21-2010, 08:05 PM   #8724
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In the jiles basic outdoor rubber setup, is the 0.5mm at the front rear suspension mount/block added as well as the standard 3mm spacers that you add under the block as per standard 416we manual.

So you would make it 3.5mm total?

Is this correct
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Old 04-21-2010, 08:54 PM   #8725
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Yes

so you end up with a .5mm antidive
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Old 04-22-2010, 08:31 AM   #8726
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Is anyone running the SpecR "LCD" driveshafts on their 416? Forgive my terminology! <----Losi guy

Just wondering how well those driveshafts hold up in 13.5/10.5/Mod????
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Old 04-22-2010, 09:01 AM   #8727
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Will this one fit? From the Cyclone:

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Old 04-22-2010, 09:58 AM   #8728
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IIRC somebody said it would, but you have to enlarge the opening on the diff cup.
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Old 04-22-2010, 10:58 AM   #8729
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Sharpe View Post
Is anyone running the SpecR "LCD" driveshafts on their 416? Forgive my terminology! <----Losi guy

Just wondering how well those driveshafts hold up in 13.5/10.5/Mod????
The SpecR universals have been covered many times in this thread. The general consensus is they work well but don't last that long before breaking. A local guy was running them the SpecR 416 universals in his Photon and they only lasted two runs in 13.5 before snapping.
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Old 04-22-2010, 10:59 AM   #8730
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barry White View Post
Will this one fit? From the Cyclone:

not fit !
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