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Old 03-26-2010, 04:33 AM   #8551
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Try pushing the lipo outer little bit. That should do the trick. btw, I still add some 45gm on the rear lipo part.

Ok, will try that soon,thanks.
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Old 03-26-2010, 08:10 AM   #8552
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Ok, will try that soon,thanks.
i just have to drive the last national round (with NIMH) before trying the new chassis, but really looking forward to test it, and i hope that the car will be i balance left right i have mesured and the servo will be moved about 5 mm in and the reciver and speedo will be moved almost 15mm in
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Old 03-26-2010, 08:55 AM   #8553
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Default steering servo saver help

Need help on setting up servo saver,the 415 was at 1 oclock and the 416 is at 12 oclock. Was on line and read it should be set at 11 oclock ?
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Old 03-26-2010, 03:10 PM   #8554
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According to the manual, the 415MSX & later are supposed to be set at 10 degrees towards 11 o'clock. Check the bottom of page 15 at the following link: http://www.tamiyausa.com/pdf/manuals/49419ml.pdf

Jilles Groskamp told me the 416 should be set to 11 o'clock too (against the instructions). You really want to setup your servo link length so the saver is perpendicular (right angle) to the link when the steering is centered. This makes your initial steering more symetrical. From there you need to set your end points to give you the same turning radius at full lock in either direction. Then you adjust overall needed steering on the fly with dual rate.
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Old 03-26-2010, 07:48 PM   #8555
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Originally Posted by 94eg! View Post
According to the manual, the 415MSX & later are supposed to be set at 10 degrees towards 11 o'clock. Check the bottom of page 15 at the following link: http://www.tamiyausa.com/pdf/manuals/49419ml.pdf

Jilles Groskamp told me the 416 should be set to 11 o'clock too (against the instructions). You really want to setup your servo link length so the saver is perpendicular (right angle) to the link when the steering is centered. This makes your initial steering more symetrical. From there you need to set your end points to give you the same turning radius at full lock in either direction. Then you adjust overall needed steering on the fly with dual rate.
Is it same goes for 416X, the servo saver position should be at 11o'clock.
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Old 03-26-2010, 09:36 PM   #8556
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Hi all
yeah I have been testing and using the Smokem chassis on my 416WE and reckon it is fantastic. :-)
my car has never before been as consistent and even turning each way.
I use the ko2143 short servo with SPGT2.0 and ko 2.4 rx. Also I place the pt on right side in front of batt. This layout it balances spot on laterally and so I add a 'log' of lead down the centre close to the left side of the belt against the back of the electronics to get up to legal weight.
This chassis belongs on every 416, it's trick!
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Old 03-26-2010, 11:58 PM   #8557
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Hi all
yeah I have been testing and using the Smokem chassis on my 416WE and reckon it is fantastic. :-)
my car has never before been as consistent and even turning each way.
I use the ko2143 short servo with SPGT2.0 and ko 2.4 rx. Also I place the pt on right side in front of batt. This layout it balances spot on laterally and so I add a 'log' of lead down the centre close to the left side of the belt against the back of the electronics to get up to legal weight.
This chassis belongs on every 416, it's trick!
Do you put any weight on the sides of the batts?
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Old 03-27-2010, 12:30 AM   #8558
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no lead on batts (normal 5000Mah lipos) and I place the batt inner most position. all lead down centre just to left of belt and balance is great!
I'll post a pic later of my (lexan) electronics tray with lead mounting bracket...
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Old 03-27-2010, 05:47 AM   #8559
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no lead on batts (normal 5000Mah lipos) and I place the batt inner most position. all lead down centre just to left of belt and balance is great!
I'll post a pic later of my (lexan) electronics tray with lead mounting bracket...
If can please post your setup sheet as well.It will help a lot!
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Old 03-27-2010, 05:29 PM   #8560
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Hi,

My setup is based on Jilles Worlds RCS Bangkok Nov08
+
> laid shocks down one position on towers to #1F & #2R
> HPI Pink Front springs
> increased ride height (due to bumps at local TFTR track)
> increased droop ~2mm more droop all round
> Smokem steering brace
> Smokem chassis of course!

...but I would recommend trying Jilles setup as is first! The changes I've made seem to be better for me, but it will be small differences and depends on track/driving style etc of course

Here are some pics showing chassis and electronics layout:
Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X-416_1.jpg

Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X-416_3.jpg

Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X-416_2.jpg

Lead 'log' between electronics and belt:
Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X-416_4.jpg
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Old 03-27-2010, 05:36 PM   #8561
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Here's pics of the simple electronics tray I made from Lexan.
Main purpose was to enable quicker chassis changes at the track for testing kit vs Smokem chassis back-to-back, but it also enabled a good mounting for the lead.

Electronics tray:
Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X-electronics_tray_3.jpg

Vertical lexan bracket with lead attached by double sided tape:
Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X-electronics_tray_1.jpg

Vertical chihuahua (maybe attached by double sided tape):
Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X-chihuaha.jpg
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Old 03-27-2010, 08:08 PM   #8562
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cookie View Post
Here's pics of the simple electronics tray I made from Lexan.
Main purpose was to enable quicker chassis changes at the track for testing kit vs Smokem chassis back-to-back, but it also enabled a good mounting for the lead.

Electronics tray:
Attachment 573064

Vertical lexan bracket with lead attached by double sided tape:
Attachment 573065

Vertical chihuahua (maybe attached by double sided tape):
Attachment 573066
Really cool pics man!! very detail....I will post mine soon. I see you got the same issue with me the battery connectors plugs have to be position to the front. Overall your is very neat! The esc/rx tray is brilliant !!

Pink HPI springs all around with standard 60 shock oil?
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Old 03-27-2010, 08:32 PM   #8563
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I normally run HPI Silver all round or with HPI Pink on front which I quite like for a bit more stability and quick steering response.
I have 650WT muchmore oil in currently (run out of 700!) but this would depend on temp and bumpiness of track to get the feel you want.
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Old 03-27-2010, 08:52 PM   #8564
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Originally Posted by Cookie View Post
I normally run HPI Silver all round or with HPI Pink on front which I quite like for a bit more stability and quick steering response.
I have 650WT muchmore oil in currently (run out of 700!) but this would depend on temp and bumpiness of track to get the feel you want.
At the moment I'm using standard stock springs Tamiya Blue Front and Yellow Rear, Trinity 60 oil which gives a lot of roll. I haven't got the time yet to get some harder springs. I've got LTC-R protoform bodyshell which I think to switch to Mazda speed. My mates is also using HPI springs which works quite well. As I'm using Orca ESC with the LRP type diode ,I can't stick them flat so I place it in the centre between the belt and the ESC which is quite ok,just have to squeeze the weight in the middle between the steering rack and the diode. I'm using same Batts as you do. Camber - 1.5 front and -2 rear.
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Old 03-27-2010, 11:56 PM   #8565
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Default narrow arms vs wide arms?

Does anyone know how much wider the wide arms compare to the narrow arms? (mm?)
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