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Old 02-25-2010, 10:11 AM   #8281
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Originally Posted by Zooberg View Post
where can I buy Tamiya springs? type them white is harder than blue?
Tamiya springs are Red, Yellow, Blue and White (soft to hard). Most use on carpet with rubber blue at the rear and white in front. On asphalt many now use HPI springs (blue, silver and gold) instead of Tamiya springs.

Not sure where you can get them in Sweden.

Here is one online shop with a link: http://www.planet-rc.ch/product_info...et-Onroad.html

There is also a special Tamiya set where all the springs are white, only with a small color code spot on them...

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Old 02-25-2010, 10:39 AM   #8282
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Originally Posted by captain stacker View Post
Hi, I'm thinking of moving over to a tamiya after driving xray.

the problem I have with my xray is when the steering is at about more than 50% travel, the wheels wobble alot. I know the fix is to replace with double jointed cvds, which cost $80 for the fronts.

does the 416x have problems with steering chatter at all?

I see atomic make some aftermarket uni's, and looks like xray's option ECS drive shafts. But hoping I wont need to go down that road of buying stuff that 'should' be included in the kit.
The 416 still does chatter, but I say after about 80% of steering throw. I have my dual rate set to 80% and I have way enough steering.
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Old 02-25-2010, 06:39 PM   #8283
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Default spare parts and lipo question

guys,
my car is assembled now with servo and rx just waiting for the esc and motor to come and finish it to go to the track.
the thing is i want to invest some money on some parts to avoid being out of a race or weekend at my race club.
which ones are most important to keep and about the suspension blocks which ones are good to have apart from the stock ones?

Also i am going to use the IP 5000 race pack lipo, it is roar aproved, it does not have the bumps below it so how can i fix it on the chassis? just using the tape is not going to be enough as to get a proper balance i think i will have to put it a bit far from the center line of the car.
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Old 02-25-2010, 07:11 PM   #8284
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guys,

Also i am going to use the IP 5000 race pack lipo, it is roar aproved, it does not have the bumps below it so how can i fix it on the chassis? just using the tape is not going to be enough as to get a proper balance i think i will have to put it a bit far from the center line of the car.
Once you get the pack positioned where you want it, just stick some servo tape to the bottom of the pack through the holes in the chassis. The servo tape filling the cell slots will keep the pack from shfiting. You can leave the paper on the back side of the tape to keep it from collecting debris.
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Old 02-25-2010, 07:15 PM   #8285
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double post...
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Old 02-25-2010, 07:24 PM   #8286
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I run lipo packs with no bumps and just use strapping tape, never had a pack fall out before.
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Old 02-25-2010, 11:49 PM   #8287
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Originally Posted by Fabricio View Post
guys,
my car is assembled now with servo and rx just waiting for the esc and motor to come and finish it to go to the track.
the thing is i want to invest some money on some parts to avoid being out of a race or weekend at my race club.
which ones are most important to keep and about the suspension blocks which ones are good to have apart from the stock ones?
The plastic parts, sooner or later you will break some...


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Old 02-26-2010, 02:43 AM   #8288
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Default 416 cvd's fit 416x?

do the front drive shafts made for the 416 fit the 416x?
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Old 02-26-2010, 03:14 AM   #8289
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Originally Posted by hacker View Post
do the front drive shafts made for the 416 fit the 416x?
The kit ones are the same (44mm alu)...

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Old 02-26-2010, 03:20 AM   #8290
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thanks, cant seem to find a 416x manual online.
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Old 02-26-2010, 05:46 AM   #8291
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i have a friend going to tokyo japan and was wondering if buying tamiya and other rc related stuff is cheaper there? or is it still cheaper to order from china like rcmart. etc. im thinking im only gonna save on shipping or due to the weak dollar and high yen value i should not buy. thinking of getting the 416X and few parts and sorex tires.

just want to know if anyone else had a friend bring back stuff from tokyo.
thanks
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Old 02-26-2010, 04:37 PM   #8292
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At the indoor Euros, it looks like neither Marc or Victor are running the X. Both seem to have the batteries moved back into the position from the original 416, perhaps using the X chassis? Also, Victor is using the 2pc top deck.


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Old 02-26-2010, 05:11 PM   #8293
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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
At the indoor Euros, it looks like neither Marc or Victor are running the X. Both seem to have the batteries moved back into the position from the original 416, perhaps using the X chassis? Also, Victor is using the 2pc top deck.


My guess is they are playing with the rear diff position. Elliott was discussing this the other week, in that with it forward seems better for higher traction, whilst rearward for lower... so makes sense given it looks like reasonably high traction again.

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Old 02-27-2010, 08:50 AM   #8294
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My guess is they are playing with the rear diff position. Elliott was discussing this the other week, in that with it forward seems better for higher traction, whilst rearward for lower... so makes sense given it looks like reasonably high traction again.

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How are they moving the rear diff forward\backward? Changing bulkheads or just rotating the bearing holders?
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Old 02-27-2010, 09:56 AM   #8295
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How are they moving the rear diff forward\backward? Changing bulkheads or just rotating the bearing holders?
I think they are switching between the 416we and the 416x lower deck.
The x has different bulkhead position int the back than the normal 416 and WE.It uses longer rear belt.You could use an X lower deck with a WE but you need the X's rear belt.

Anyway, I just changed my spur from 64dp to 48dp an my car is much louder!
I played with the gear mesh but nothing changed,it's more louder than with the 64dp setup.Is it normal or am i doing something wrong?
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