Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
#7921
Lol I think we are getting confused here. I was referring to the outdrives for the front spool and not the swing shafts. I am currently using the steel 44mm swing shafts btw.
I think people are referring to the chatter that the steel outdrives make that supposedly makes you lose steering? Or is it from using the 46mm swing shafts?
I think people are referring to the chatter that the steel outdrives make that supposedly makes you lose steering? Or is it from using the 46mm swing shafts?
#7922
Joey, 46's should make the car smoother than with the 44's. Maybe a tick less steering, but smoother overall. Better for mod, maybe not necessary for stock. I don't think the car needs it for stock after driving hoffman's. I don't really think it needs a DCJ either, the tamiya CVDs are very smooth as is, not sure how much, if any you'd gain with them (especially in stock)
#7923
Tech Champion
iTrader: (48)
Lol I think we are getting confused here. I was referring to the outdrives for the front spool and not the swing shafts. I am currently using the steel 44mm swing shafts btw.
I think people are referring to the chatter that the steel outdrives make that supposedly makes you lose steering? Or is it from using the 46mm swing shafts?
I think people are referring to the chatter that the steel outdrives make that supposedly makes you lose steering? Or is it from using the 46mm swing shafts?
#7927
After shaving off 1mm from the bottom of my motor mount on my 415MSXX, I never spaced & reattached that last screw underneath. Car runs great w/ perfectly symetrical flex on the lower chassis. Of course that car has a center T-bar bracing both bulkheads to the lower chassis...
Has anybody tried running their 416 without the motor mount standoff?
#7928
Also if you do run the 46 swing shafts but go to a narrow front width setting check to make sure that axles aren't binding in the outdrive cup. Best way to check is to remove your front shocks and while rotating the the cars rear wheels, lift the front suspension arms one at a time through full travel, if the swingshafts are binding you'll feel it throught the rotation.
#7929
Also if you do run the 46 swing shafts but go to a narrow front width setting check to make sure that axles aren't binding in the outdrive cup. Best way to check is to remove your front shocks and while rotating the the cars rear wheels, lift the front suspension arms one at a time through full travel, if the swingshafts are binding you'll feel it throught the rotation.
#7930
The 46mm shafts are ok with the stock CC block setup but once you go any narrower on the blocks they will bind.
#7931
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (47)
Personally, that standoff never made sense to me. Why would you want to brace one bulkhead to the lower chassis, and not the other.
After shaving off 1mm from the bottom of my motor mount on my 415MSXX, I never spaced & reattached that last screw underneath. Car runs great w/ perfectly symetrical flex on the lower chassis. Of course that car has a center T-bar bracing both bulkheads to the lower chassis...
Has anybody tried running their 416 without the motor mount standoff?
After shaving off 1mm from the bottom of my motor mount on my 415MSXX, I never spaced & reattached that last screw underneath. Car runs great w/ perfectly symetrical flex on the lower chassis. Of course that car has a center T-bar bracing both bulkheads to the lower chassis...
Has anybody tried running their 416 without the motor mount standoff?
You could get away without running the screw on the 415 platforms because the T brace did essentially the same thing as the new standoff does.
#7932
#7934
Tech Regular
OK,
I can not work it out. I swapped the servo with another one that I know it working perfectly and nothing, same issue.
Tightened the rear diff up abit, nothing. Chassis is completely flat…
Could it be that I have a faulty front spool? I will try more toe out tonight...
I can not work it out. I swapped the servo with another one that I know it working perfectly and nothing, same issue.
Tightened the rear diff up abit, nothing. Chassis is completely flat…
Could it be that I have a faulty front spool? I will try more toe out tonight...
Make sure your shocks have the same length and your shocks filled equally (R-L equal rebound).
Set your droop and downstop properly, and make sure your suspension blocks are aligned perfectly (equal toe value left and right side).
Look for some parts that might be binding, or maybe a shaft pin has loosened a little. Look for faulty bearings as well.
Make sure your camber left and right are set equally and give the front a little bit toe out.
Try to mount a new set of tires.
You say you tightened your diff a bit more, but does your diff slip or doesn't it?
If your delrin spool cups are worn out, replace them with new ones.
Servo saver screw too long?
Transmitter ok? Does the steering-wheel/stick move smooth around the neutral steering point, or does it get stuck a bit around the neutral point (if you know what I mean)?
That would be my checklist for now...
#7935
With the high power of the BL motors the standoff helps keep everything from flexing under acceleration. It also moves the mounting point from the left side of the car to the center to provide equal left/right flex.
You could get away without running the screw on the 415 platforms because the T brace did essentially the same thing as the new standoff does.
You could get away without running the screw on the 415 platforms because the T brace did essentially the same thing as the new standoff does.