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Old 01-07-2010, 04:08 PM   #7741
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TRF is not in the 75 percentile. but I do subscribe to you get what you pay for.
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Old 01-07-2010, 04:54 PM   #7742
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I have used ceramic diff balls from Jaad, TOP, and Protek ($8 from amainhobbies) and I've never had a problem with any of them. I've also got some of the ones from rcmarket on the way so I'll post if they are good or bad once I've given them a run
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Old 01-07-2010, 06:01 PM   #7743
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I'm sure all those are good, but do they last is the question?
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Old 01-07-2010, 06:31 PM   #7744
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Originally Posted by gashuffer View Post
I'm sure all those are good, but do they last is the question?
Thats good question. Those racers on track told me there are 2 type of ceramic balls one should aware.
1. ceramic coated
2. fully ceramic

For the issue I am having, I did called the owner of the shop. They cannot answer the question. They tell me to try that's all.

How can one differentiate when there are so many 3rd party supplier. Other than most of them they do not mention on the label.

If you buying from reputable co. it's different.
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Old 01-07-2010, 06:39 PM   #7745
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gashuffer View Post
I'm sure all those are good, but do they last is the question?
Quote:
Originally Posted by veecee View Post
I've found ABEC35 ceramic balls to be inexpensive and durable. I've been using them in my 416 for about a year and a half!
I'll qualify my post by saying I'm still using the very same set.
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Old 01-07-2010, 06:43 PM   #7746
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Originally Posted by Toh WL View Post
Thats good question. Those racers on track told me there are 2 type of ceramic balls one should aware.
1. ceramic coated
2. fully ceramic

For the issue I am having, I did called the owner of the shop. They cannot answer the question. They tell me to try that's all.

How can one differentiate when there are so many 3rd party supplier. Other than most of them they do not mention on the label.

If you buying from reputable co. it's different.
If you followed the link I posted and had a good read through the website, you would have come across this:

"Our CERAMIC balls are made of solid Silicone Nitride (Si3N4), not coated nor anodized."

Otherwise go for the TRF balls...
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Old 01-07-2010, 06:59 PM   #7747
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Quote:
Originally Posted by veecee View Post
If you followed the link I posted and had a good read through the website, you would have come across this:

"Our CERAMIC balls are made of solid Silicone Nitride (Si3N4), not coated nor anodized."

Otherwise go for the TRF balls...
What is the link.. thx in advance...
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Old 01-07-2010, 07:04 PM   #7748
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Default 416X build observations & questions

Just finishing off my 416X, but a couple of observations/questions:
  • Both front and rear arms seem very tight with the suggested number of spacers. Removing the 0.5mm one helps a lot. Did other people find this as well?
  • When fitting the sway bars, the load seems a little uneven. For example, lifting one side raises the other almost immediately, but when I lift the opposite side, there's a lag. Is this normal and what's the best way to adjust, assuming it's important?
  • The manual is a little unclear - are you supposed to fit both wheel spacers on the back, for a total of 1.5mm?

Looking forward to running it!

Phil.
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Old 01-07-2010, 07:16 PM   #7749
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Originally Posted by niznai View Post
Don't be fooled, 64 pitch may be very close to .4 metric but it doesn't really work. Setting mesh is going to be very fiddly and you will get an annoying high pitched noise from the transmission. While this is not a problem in itself, it is the symptom of a problem, and that is power loss and sooner or later (depending on what motor you're running) but in any case prematurely you will wear the pinion/spur. Get the proper pitch for whatever you're using, there's no gain in cutting corners here.
I have been using the .4 metric tamiya pinions for over 8 years. I have .4 and 64p spurs. No wear issues, and some of the smoothest drivetrains out there.

Also funny how the original HPI pinions said .4 metric / 64p on the package. They were nice and tall, worked better on my EVO's. My only guess is it may only go one way.

I remember people stipping gears on the TA03 when it came out and used 64p pinions. After a few more seconds of thought (ouch) that was before all the alloy motor plates and stuff for it.
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Old 01-07-2010, 07:50 PM   #7750
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Well... I think I remember Jilles saying he used tamiya pinions and rw spurs. If it works for him, it obviously doesn't make that big of a difference (unless they have .4 spurs too)

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Old 01-08-2010, 12:13 AM   #7751
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Originally Posted by PDR View Post
Just finishing off my 416X, but a couple of observations/questions:
  • Both front and rear arms seem very tight with the suggested number of spacers. Removing the 0.5mm one helps a lot. Did other people find this as well?
  • When fitting the sway bars, the load seems a little uneven. For example, lifting one side raises the other almost immediately, but when I lift the opposite side, there's a lag. Is this normal and what's the best way to adjust, assuming it's important?
  • The manual is a little unclear - are you supposed to fit both wheel spacers on the back, for a total of 1.5mm?

Looking forward to running it!

Phil.
1. hmm, I built it per instructions and things came out just right. The first thing that came to my mind while building that section is "hey, they fixed the amount of spacers to use". When you torque the suspension blocks down, make sure you apply pressure away from the arms so they won't bind. Watch Jilles's vids for more detail.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


2. First off make sure the bar is not tweaked by putting it on a flat surface. Most of the time, I can adjust the balance by turning the ball ends on the bar. Just loosen the grub screw and re-tighten it at another angle.

3. The wheel spacers are your choice. I usually like to use .5mm in the rear. On the front, I just use 5mm hex hubs because some rims don't like spacers.
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Old 01-08-2010, 03:56 AM   #7752
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gashuffer View Post
I'm sure all those are good, but do they last is the question?
All of the ceramics I've tried (which are the black, full versions) have lasted excellently. So much so, I won't use any other type of balls in my diffs, and as my team mates keep telling me, my diffs are pretty stunningly smooth even after 5 or so full race days with a 10.5t.

I wouldn't worry about their durability at all, ceramic balls and ceramic thrust races are the best way too get a silky smooth diff, and covers then help to keep them super durable.

HiH
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Old 01-08-2010, 04:17 AM   #7753
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Default camber link

What would be the effect of increasing / decreasing the front (inner) & rear (inner & outer) camber link spacer ?

TIA

Last edited by leonardiw; 01-08-2010 at 04:32 AM.
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Old 01-08-2010, 07:05 AM   #7754
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
All of the ceramics I've tried (which are the black, full versions) have lasted excellently. So much so, I won't use any other type of balls in my diffs, and as my team mates keep telling me, my diffs are pretty stunningly smooth even after 5 or so full race days with a 10.5t.

I wouldn't worry about their durability at all, ceramic balls and ceramic thrust races are the best way too get a silky smooth diff, and covers then help to keep them super durable.

HiH
Ed
Ed any chance you have part numbers for the ceramic diff balls and ceramic thrust bearing you use?
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Old 01-08-2010, 08:39 AM   #7755
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One thing about pure ceramic & the coated ceramic balls. I am kinda worry as the one I brought was made in Hong Kong from the label. How to physically differentiate them and that's the challenge.
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