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Old 12-26-2009, 08:24 PM   #7606
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Thanks for the links.

But they want $10 for something so small and domestic I like how it says 20G and then charges me for 100g weight. too bad speedtech is sold out.
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Old 12-26-2009, 08:41 PM   #7607
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I managed to track down that part number once on Schumacher USA's site and purchase it. It was such a monumental pain in the ass to find it that I bought like 5 so I wouldn't have to go through the pain again any time soon.

Edit: I just tried to find it again on their site and lost my will to live after waiting for their craptacular search to time out. Goodbye cruel world.
Did you find the Schumacher grease to have any magic? Did you find it to be similar to other grease that is more easily obtainable?

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Old 12-26-2009, 08:44 PM   #7608
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Try the Kyosho ball diff grease it's great.
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Old 12-26-2009, 09:06 PM   #7609
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Did you find the Schumacher grease to have any magic? Did you find it to be similar to other grease that is more easily obtainable?

part number is U1301.

Bob - Eric can order it from Schuy
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Old 12-26-2009, 09:25 PM   #7610
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Did you find the Schumacher grease to have any magic? Did you find it to be similar to other grease that is more easily obtainable?

Their grease is unique the best I can tell. It's consistency is more like... jello or something. I definitely prefer the stuff over what I've used in the past, and I think it was only like $4 from Schumacher USA once I managed to track it down.

Jilles video is pretty spot on I think. I use the tiniest amount of Tamiya anti-wear grease on the back side of the rings to stick them to the outdrives. I think what he's using is even more sticky than that, but I wasn't able to figure out what it is.
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Old 12-26-2009, 09:36 PM   #7611
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Man, BBB and Sydor in the 416 thread! This is crazy!
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Old 12-27-2009, 12:09 AM   #7612
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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
Their grease is unique the best I can tell. It's consistency is more like... jello or something. I definitely prefer the stuff over what I've used in the past, and I think it was only like $4 from Schumacher USA once I managed to track it down.

Jilles video is pretty spot on I think. I use the tiniest amount of Tamiya anti-wear grease on the back side of the rings to stick them to the outdrives. I think what he's using is even more sticky than that, but I wasn't able to figure out what it is.
He's using Tamiya Hard Grease.
If I'm correct, it is usually used on the damper discs on t-bar 1/12 pan cars.
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Old 12-27-2009, 01:33 AM   #7613
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
Their grease is unique the best I can tell. It's consistency is more like... jello or something. I definitely prefer the stuff over what I've used in the past, and I think it was only like $4 from Schumacher USA once I managed to track it down.

Jilles video is pretty spot on I think. I use the tiniest amount of Tamiya anti-wear grease on the back side of the rings to stick them to the outdrives. I think what he's using is even more sticky than that, but I wasn't able to figure out what it is.
+1
I always run the Schumacher grease in my 416 diff, its does seem to stay in the diff and not fly out like some of the more runny diff grease thats available.
As Syndrome says its cheap too!
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Old 12-27-2009, 03:22 AM   #7614
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I don't like using two types of greese in a diff, so I just hold the rings on using diff greese... As it's only working by stiction, the substance behind the diff rings shouldn't matter, but I don't like the thought of having the two types near by with a potential to mix. However, when your building the diff, don't CA the rings in place... a friend did this and wondered why his diff didn't feel too good, the rings didn't sit flat at all...
Anyway the schuey stuff deffiently works well, seems to stay very consistent within the diff, and not fling out either.

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Old 12-27-2009, 12:01 PM   #7615
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hmm, guess I'll just suck up the shipping...

I use rubber cement to keep the diff rings on the outdrives. I recall that it still slipped with diff grease...

Any thoughts on the three extra balls for the pulley?
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Old 12-27-2009, 12:43 PM   #7616
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Hello guys. Someone can say me what is the "real" difference between all the 416 main chassis and lower upper deck.

Thanks for your help.
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Old 12-27-2009, 02:43 PM   #7617
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hmm, guess I'll just suck up the shipping...

I use rubber cement to keep the diff rings on the outdrives. I recall that it still slipped with diff grease...

Any thoughts on the three extra balls for the pulley?
honestly, never had it slip with the diff greese... rubber cement is a badddddd thing to use, honestly, don't use it!
One trick to help (and this is something I pointed out to the friend i was showing how to build a diff), is too sand both sides of the diff ring. a) this gets it flat both sides, and b) it provides a key for the ring to grip against the outdrive. I'll go 600grit on the outdrive side, but 1200grit+ on the ball side.

As for the extra balls, I can't see them making a huge difference in a lighterweight TC. Yes the loadings going through the diff can be quite high, but not as much as when a 4wd buggy lands of a jump on full beans IMO, I wouldn't bother, but maybe something to try out

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Old 12-27-2009, 02:49 PM   #7618
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3Racing makes a "D ring" diff for the 416. It's $15 from market.

http://rcmarket.com.hk/product_info....oducts_id=7634
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Old 12-27-2009, 02:49 PM   #7619
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Quote:
Originally Posted by february View Post
Hello guys. Someone can say me what is the "real" difference between all the 416 main chassis and lower upper deck.

Thanks for your help.
Chassis plates;
TRF 416 - Cells in standard position, 2.25mm thick
TRF 416WE - Cells in forward positon (5mm forward), 2.25mm thick
TRF 416X - Cells in standard position, 2.25mm thick, extra holes drilled for front bulkheads, motor recess machined 1mm further towards centre
2.5mm Carpet plate - optional part, 2.5mm thick, cells in standard position


Top decks;
TRF416 - two piece top deck, long front piece, and braced rear
TRF416WE - single piece top deck, no rear brace (3&1 screw mounting points)
TRF416X - Single piece top deck, but with longer rear section for new rear bulkheads, slightly thinner to clear motor mount moved in 1mm, and revised rear screw mounting points (2&2)

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Old 12-27-2009, 04:42 PM   #7620
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hey guys on the diff stuff... when i build my diff or that of fellow racers i always use 600-800 grit sandpaper, but i use something more coarse for the other side to help adhere better to the outdrive. im 100% sure that its perfectly flat after sanding the two sides so after all that my diffs are silky smooth and function flawless
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