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Old 12-13-2009, 01:19 AM   #7456
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I wouldn't say the 416 is the most durable car out there, but with a few updates it can be pretty stout. Here's a few things I do to my cars to make them stronger. Perhaps others have some ideas as well.

1. Get a giant bumper. The Parma T2 or TC5 bumpers can be cut down with some work to fit.

2. Don't run the stock c-hubs. Get either aluminum ones from Square, or run the soft IFS composite.

3. Replace the ball studs in the steering rack (where you adjust ackermann) with the same piece that the outside from camber link connects to. The kingpin, or whatever it's called.

4. Replace the aluminum steering tie rods with titanium.

5. Ditch the aluminum ball studs and use the steel ones instead.

6. If you run a spool, use 46mm steel CVD's up front.

7. Use the 2pc suspension mounts in the front/rear position.

8. Use longer screws to hold the suspension mounts in both rear positions. This seems to reduce the chance of bending.

9. Learn to hit things with the front of your car. If you watch the good drivers, they never swipe anything with the side of their car. They always try to keep the wrecks in front of them and let their bumper do the work. I'm really beginning to think there's an art to knowing how to crash and hit things.

That's about all I can think of at the moment. All these cars seem like they're designed to be as light as possible, and for more forgiving tracks, like those with dots and rolled curbs. 'Round here, we use some pretty relentless boards, so a few precautions above what comes with the kit will go a long way.
Hi,

you wanna fight and not race?

The seperated suspension mounts are in deed nice. Its much easier to change rollcenter settings. And the belt would no longer touch the mount.
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Old 12-13-2009, 07:04 AM   #7457
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Hi,

you wanna fight and not race?

The seperated suspension mounts are in deed nice. Its much easier to change rollcenter settings. And the belt would no longer touch the mount.
Heh, I've been at this for two years with the 416 on US style tracks, this seems to be the right combo. Certainly more alloy parts are also an option, but my goal is generally to keep the car as stock as possible and only use aftermarket parts where they make the most sense.

My only complaint about the 2pc mounts is that there's no shims to slide under them yet. Trying to put spacers under them in the front makes me want to go home.
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Old 12-13-2009, 09:33 AM   #7458
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Syndrome, I was thinking about making some shim sets for the split mounts. It is tough to get the shims in there...I will post some pics after I make some up. The only parts that I have brkoen have been th stock c-hubs......with the square aluminum peices in there I have not broken another part.
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Old 12-13-2009, 10:27 AM   #7459
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good news 416X will this week arrive !
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Old 12-13-2009, 01:35 PM   #7460
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I still think that it is strange that some guys in Canada have had their cars for over a week and even PMHobbycraft in Calgary had one on the shelf last wednesday I get to test my 416X in a couple hours
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Old 12-13-2009, 02:02 PM   #7461
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Where can i find the short arms?
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Old 12-13-2009, 02:22 PM   #7462
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ampdraw.com best e-hobbyshop in the united states
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Old 12-13-2009, 02:54 PM   #7463
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How thick is the 416X chassis? Any less then 2.5mm will be to thin for carpet racing.
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Old 12-13-2009, 03:11 PM   #7464
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2.25mm. Maybe thin if you run foam but it's winning races on rubber.
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Old 12-13-2009, 03:17 PM   #7465
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We always ran the stock chassis on rubber carpet. Just ran a Hyperdrive lipo plate so it kept the chassis flex the same with lipo. Without it the chassis would flex one way really easy.
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Old 12-14-2009, 02:28 AM   #7466
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good news 416X will this week arrive !
Thats very good news,and the price??
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Old 12-14-2009, 04:35 AM   #7467
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Talking about hardening the car, I was thinking if Tamiya produces ALUMINIUM front knuckle for TAM51332. The ball connector which connects the knuckle does goes loose as time goes by.

I have to check the ball connector on TAM51332 time after time. At most time it get loose I just have to tighten a bit else replace. If not ball connector drops off along with shims & flanged tube. This is somehow quite annoying.
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Old 12-14-2009, 04:45 AM   #7468
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Was kinda thinking if aluminium C hub is allowed in Tamiya Asia/Europe cup?
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Old 12-14-2009, 05:47 AM   #7469
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Does anyone know where i can download a manual for the 416,also what is involved in going to the short arms,what are the advantages?
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Old 12-14-2009, 06:34 AM   #7470
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Quote:
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Does anyone know where i can download a manual for the 416,also what is involved in going to the short arms,what are the advantages?
http://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/manuals.htm


Short arms = faster laps!
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