4LikesTamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
12-11-2009, 08:55 PM
#7442
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (66)
durabilaty
I have chance to pic up a 416 for a pretty good price and i'm looking to try another car, but the only tamia's i've seen run at my local track was a 415 that the track oner picked up on a trade and it was extremely fragile. It was the fastest car on the track but if you got near a pipe it broke, is the 416 any more durable? Will be running 17.5 rubber tire carpet.
12-11-2009, 11:46 PM
#7443
Serpent S-400 Parting Out NEW!!!!
Wrong thread, please post in the "For Sale" thread
Last edited by TimPotter; 12-12-2009 at 08:18 AM.
12-12-2009, 01:29 AM
#7444
I have chance to pic up a 416 for a pretty good price and i'm looking to try another car, but the only tamia's i've seen run at my local track was a 415 that the track oner picked up on a trade and it was extremely fragile. It was the fastest car on the track but if you got near a pipe it broke, is the 416 any more durable? Will be running 17.5 rubber tire carpet
yer i broke some chubs, splindles and arms when i first started but as i got better the hits reduced and not many broken parts anymore. The 416 is using the same short arms as my 415 did same blocks etc, the chubs and spindles are similar but cant see anything that stands out to be fragile.
both great cars
12-12-2009, 09:08 AM
#7445
I wouldn't say the 416 is the most durable car out there, but with a few updates it can be pretty stout. Here's a few things I do to my cars to make them stronger. Perhaps others have some ideas as well.
1. Get a giant bumper. The Parma T2 or TC5 bumpers can be cut down with some work to fit.
2. Don't run the stock c-hubs. Get either aluminum ones from Square, or run the soft IFS composite.
3. Replace the ball studs in the steering rack (where you adjust ackermann) with the same piece that the outside from camber link connects to. The kingpin, or whatever it's called.
4. Replace the aluminum steering tie rods with titanium.
5. Ditch the aluminum ball studs and use the steel ones instead.
6. If you run a spool, use 46mm steel CVD's up front.
7. Use the 2pc suspension mounts in the front/rear position.
8. Use longer screws to hold the suspension mounts in both rear positions. This seems to reduce the chance of bending.
9. Learn to hit things with the front of your car. If you watch the good drivers, they never swipe anything with the side of their car. They always try to keep the wrecks in front of them and let their bumper do the work. I'm really beginning to think there's an art to knowing how to crash and hit things.
That's about all I can think of at the moment. All these cars seem like they're designed to be as light as possible, and for more forgiving tracks, like those with dots and rolled curbs. 'Round here, we use some pretty relentless boards, so a few precautions above what comes with the kit will go a long way.
1. Get a giant bumper. The Parma T2 or TC5 bumpers can be cut down with some work to fit.
2. Don't run the stock c-hubs. Get either aluminum ones from Square, or run the soft IFS composite.
3. Replace the ball studs in the steering rack (where you adjust ackermann) with the same piece that the outside from camber link connects to. The kingpin, or whatever it's called.
4. Replace the aluminum steering tie rods with titanium.
5. Ditch the aluminum ball studs and use the steel ones instead.
6. If you run a spool, use 46mm steel CVD's up front.
7. Use the 2pc suspension mounts in the front/rear position.
8. Use longer screws to hold the suspension mounts in both rear positions. This seems to reduce the chance of bending.
9. Learn to hit things with the front of your car. If you watch the good drivers, they never swipe anything with the side of their car. They always try to keep the wrecks in front of them and let their bumper do the work. I'm really beginning to think there's an art to knowing how to crash and hit things.
That's about all I can think of at the moment. All these cars seem like they're designed to be as light as possible, and for more forgiving tracks, like those with dots and rolled curbs. 'Round here, we use some pretty relentless boards, so a few precautions above what comes with the kit will go a long way.
12-12-2009, 10:17 AM
#7446
I wouldn't say the 416 is the most durable car out there, but with a few updates it can be pretty stout. Here's a few things I do to my cars to make them stronger. Perhaps others have some ideas as well.
1. Get a giant bumper. The Parma T2 or TC5 bumpers can be cut down with some work to fit.
2. Don't run the stock c-hubs. Get either aluminum ones from Square, or run the soft IFS composite.
3. Replace the ball studs in the steering rack (where you adjust ackermann) with the same piece that the outside from camber link connects to. The kingpin, or whatever it's called.
4. Replace the aluminum steering tie rods with titanium.
5. Ditch the aluminum ball studs and use the steel ones instead.
6. If you run a spool, use 46mm steel CVD's up front.
7. Use the 2pc suspension mounts in the front/rear position.
8. Use longer screws to hold the suspension mounts in both rear positions. This seems to reduce the chance of bending.
9. Learn to hit things with the front of your car. If you watch the good drivers, they never swipe anything with the side of their car. They always try to keep the wrecks in front of them and let their bumper do the work. I'm really beginning to think there's an art to knowing how to crash and hit things.
That's about all I can think of at the moment. All these cars seem like they're designed to be as light as possible, and for more forgiving tracks, like those with dots and rolled curbs. 'Round here, we use some pretty relentless boards, so a few precautions above what comes with the kit will go a long way.
1. Get a giant bumper. The Parma T2 or TC5 bumpers can be cut down with some work to fit.
2. Don't run the stock c-hubs. Get either aluminum ones from Square, or run the soft IFS composite.
3. Replace the ball studs in the steering rack (where you adjust ackermann) with the same piece that the outside from camber link connects to. The kingpin, or whatever it's called.
4. Replace the aluminum steering tie rods with titanium.
5. Ditch the aluminum ball studs and use the steel ones instead.
6. If you run a spool, use 46mm steel CVD's up front.
7. Use the 2pc suspension mounts in the front/rear position.
8. Use longer screws to hold the suspension mounts in both rear positions. This seems to reduce the chance of bending.
9. Learn to hit things with the front of your car. If you watch the good drivers, they never swipe anything with the side of their car. They always try to keep the wrecks in front of them and let their bumper do the work. I'm really beginning to think there's an art to knowing how to crash and hit things.
That's about all I can think of at the moment. All these cars seem like they're designed to be as light as possible, and for more forgiving tracks, like those with dots and rolled curbs. 'Round here, we use some pretty relentless boards, so a few precautions above what comes with the kit will go a long way.
12-12-2009, 03:27 PM
#7449
The 416WE is great for rubber tire carpet 17.5 nd the 416X should be slightly better with the diff moved back and the motor moved in. I am not sure if it is the setup that I am running or if it is more of a Tamiya thing but the 416 has really nice chassis roll that makes the car feel so smooth. I am really liking the 416 series after running xray's for a few years.
12-12-2009, 04:26 PM
#7450
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
The 416WE is great for rubber tire carpet 17.5 nd the 416X should be slightly better with the diff moved back and the motor moved in. I am not sure if it is the setup that I am running or if it is more of a Tamiya thing but the 416 has really nice chassis roll that makes the car feel so smooth. I am really liking the 416 series after running xray's for a few years.
12-12-2009, 07:27 PM
#7451
The Cyclone I ran at that race was Peter Toszer's backup chassis. I ran it how he had it setup and was good enough to get me the win in stock and 3rd in superstock against some pretty fast guys......right now the 416WE is the best handling chassis that I have had to date.
12-12-2009, 08:59 PM
#7453
Yeah, lethbridge race and then the Kamloops race the next weekend
Should be good, I just got the 416X and I think that it will be slightly better than the WE so I am anxious to get it on the track and try it out Sunday at the KARZ track
Should be good, I just got the 416X and I think that it will be slightly better than the WE so I am anxious to get it on the track and try it out Sunday at the KARZ track
12-13-2009, 01:18 AM
#7455
Tech Master
So what's the word on the US release? People in Japan are starting to test it already.