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Old 12-24-2007, 01:25 PM   #721
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Steel studs? Like a long setscrew?
Yes
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Old 12-24-2007, 02:28 PM   #722
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So these aluminum ball studs... do they break off easily? I'm a little wary of them snapping off in the aluminum bulkheads or steering rack. Has that been a problem? If they do snap, is it flush so it's impossible to extract the broken piece?

I have some of the fluorine ball studs, but in some places, the threads are too short so I can get the length the same as the stock pieces, even with the right number of shims. Most notably, the pieces in the steering rack, and the rear bulkheads.
In my experience.. don't bother. I haven't ever had one of the hex headed nuts snap. And I've had some big hits (one was big enough to split the chassis, and snap a Ti screw holding my servo mount...), and still never had one fail.
I personally don't think the flourine coated ones make a blind bit of difference. I have tried them, and couldn't notice any improvement. For me, I'll keep the convience...

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Old 12-24-2007, 03:51 PM   #723
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We had an alu ballstud that broke in the rear hub so I would suggest using a setscrew and a headnut there as tamiya has always recomended before. If an alu ballstud breaks in an alupart it is easy to get out but if it is in a plastic part it is ruined.
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Old 12-24-2007, 04:48 PM   #724
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The plastic part is a hell of a lot cheaper to replace, if you can't get it out the alloy.
In the end, each to their own, but like I said, i'll stick with convience, especially as I have never had an issue before.

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Old 12-24-2007, 05:36 PM   #725
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In 3 years I've had 2 snap...obviously both DNFs and both at important times. It's cheap insurance. And carpet tracks here in the US are pretty unforgiving. But it doesn't happen very ofter either so...
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Old 12-25-2007, 03:04 AM   #726
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In my experience.. don't bother. I haven't ever had one of the hex headed nuts snap. And I've had some big hits (one was big enough to split the chassis, and snap a Ti screw holding my servo mount...), and still never had one fail.
Now that's the Ed I know

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Old 12-25-2007, 03:06 AM   #727
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In 3 years I've had 2 snap...obviously both DNFs and both at important times. It's cheap insurance. And carpet tracks here in the US are pretty unforgiving. But it doesn't happen very ofter either so...
How can it be at important times, if you crashed that hard to snap them, then your run was ruined anyway.

The hex printed ball studs are fine, i've only ever bent one, never broke one. Now the old style ball studs were a lot weaker, so I wouldn't recommend using them.
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Old 12-25-2007, 03:32 AM   #728
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wow...ya guys are tough on poor studs
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Old 12-25-2007, 07:13 AM   #729
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you guys do realize your arguing over simple aluminum ball studs right? give it up, everyone has an opinion. both work so lets get back to talkin about peoples experience with the 416.
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Old 12-25-2007, 08:17 AM   #730
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you guys do realize your arguing over simple aluminum ball studs right? give it up, everyone has an opinion. both work so lets get back to talkin about peoples experience with the 416.
quite... hence why I said each to their own

Still waiting to build mine, it's currently sitting in my post office to collect. Not going to be home until the 28th, so still got a while to wait... bloody useless delivery, 5days to fly from Japan to UK, not what I paid for....
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Old 12-25-2007, 08:20 AM   #731
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No, actually both were swipes on the boards that were suprisingly light but snapped them. But like I said...it's a personal pref.

Oh...I didn't know we were arguing??? Just FYI stuff.
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How can it be at important times, if you crashed that hard to snap them, then your run was ruined anyway.

The hex printed ball studs are fine, i've only ever bent one, never broke one. Now the old style ball studs were a lot weaker, so I wouldn't recommend using them.
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Old 12-25-2007, 09:25 AM   #732
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Did the kit screws get any better?
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Old 12-25-2007, 09:36 AM   #733
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I just finished building my 416 and it is a very nice kit. I must have used some of the longer screws in the wrong places because I don't have 8x3's and 8x10's for the front bumper and body posts, but that is probably "user error".

I am using the Orion 4800 LiPo and I put one strip of lead on the inside of the battery an it works great as a spacer and hold the battery out just the right amount. I used other weights on the battery to get it up to NiMh weights so the car would balance.

Tomorrow night is the first time on the track, I can't wait.
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Old 12-25-2007, 09:36 AM   #734
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Duplicate post, sorry.
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Old 12-25-2007, 10:24 AM   #735
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yea, same here... i had problems with the old alloy ones all the time, then went to the setscrew/nut combo. on my 416, i did assemble it with the newer hex style ones that came in the kit, crossed fingers, and ran it last saturday... took a few fairly hard whacks, but the only thing i had problems with was that both of the ones in the center steering mount worked loose.. twice.

im heading to a big race around new years, at a track that has pretty stout boards, so for sanity's sake, i swapped all the critical ones out back to the steel/alloy combo. now the only thing i worry about are the turnbuckles.

back on topic, the car drove like a dream, tho...very stable, yet turns in great... this is on what i would call medium bite carpet, rubber tire. ran the kit setup, with minor adjustments to the droop.

what would most people change to get just a tick more off power steering? mainly at speed... i feel its a bit tight coming off the sweepers, but rotates great on the lower speed stuff...
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