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Old 12-23-2007, 01:46 AM   #706
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So I went back to the standard sus arms w/ slop, but came across something on some japanese blog. You can use CA to get rid of the slop in the arms. This is done on primarily on minis.

Get extra thin CA, and dab a LITTLE BIT on to the arm shaft from the INSIDE of the arm. The CA will get sucked into whatever space there is. It will get tight, but you can still move the shaft with pliers(it won't stick on stainless steel). remove any excess CA and you have zero slop now.

Please do this at your own risk. I do not know the long term effects of this mod.
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Old 12-23-2007, 04:01 AM   #707
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where can i get some bearings for my 415 msx mre.either in the uk or hongkong.
i need wheel bearings and also the layshaft bearings. anyone know the bearing sizes?
my new puppy knocked all the bits of the table and 3 bearings have evaporated lol? two layshaft and one wheel bearing?
thanks

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Old 12-23-2007, 05:38 AM   #708
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Watz up guyz...

I was wondering what's the biggest 64p spur that can fit on the 416?
Having trouble finding a ratio I need for a 3.5 brushless set-up..

Any feedback is much appreciated.
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Old 12-23-2007, 11:41 AM   #709
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Found out something lame.

If you use the short reversible arms on the rear, the right side will have problems. The plastic dog bone protector will hit the diff nut and you can't adjust your camber to spec. You can try to use a wider suspension mount, but you will then be limited to about 1degree of rear toe in. Unless you have a 42mm dog bone (53502) it won't work

BTW, the short sus arm has no slop what so ever. The shaft sits tight into the arm. What happened to you tamiya?
If you use the short arms you have to then use wider suspension mounts. I am using 1A/1D on the rear and I don't have this problem.
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Old 12-23-2007, 11:42 AM   #710
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I just used a knife to remove some material from the blades and it's fine!
Also, remember to squeese the diff spring a couple of times before you install it. This will make it shorter and make up some room for the blade.
The shaft hits the end of the diff bolt, so squeezing the diff spring does nothing to solve his problem.
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Old 12-23-2007, 03:50 PM   #711
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Corey,

How much uptravel/droop are you running in the setup you posted? Is it on the setup sheet, and I'm just missing it?
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Old 12-23-2007, 05:13 PM   #712
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redbones View Post
So I went back to the standard sus arms w/ slop, but came across something on some japanese blog. You can use CA to get rid of the slop in the arms. This is done on primarily on minis.

Get extra thin CA, and dab a LITTLE BIT on to the arm shaft from the INSIDE of the arm. The CA will get sucked into whatever space there is. It will get tight, but you can still move the shaft with pliers(it won't stick on stainless steel). remove any excess CA and you have zero slop now.

Please do this at your own risk. I do not know the long term effects of this mod.
I did the CA trick. Just make sure to let it dry thoroughly. If you can't get the shaft through after it dries, then take a 3/32" wrench or 2.5mm wrench and work it through the holes. You might want to have some debonder on hand just in case it doesn't work out right.
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Old 12-23-2007, 09:26 PM   #713
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Does anyone know of anywhere that has TRF416 parts yet, such as the C-hubs and front uprights?
Anyone? RC Champ is sold out...

I just know that I will break these parts because I don't have spares!
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Old 12-24-2007, 03:11 AM   #714
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Anyone? RC Champ is sold out...

I just know that I will break these parts because I don't have spares!
Precision RC does.

www.precisionrc.com
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Old 12-24-2007, 09:33 AM   #715
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Raced the 416 in 23T class yesterday! I kept it box stock, and the impression is great! It turns in really well, almost too much, but the rear stays planted. Once I got used to it, I was blasting through the turns, and got the fastest lap of the day! The biggest factor here are the motor position and chassis flex. The pushed back motor (5mm more than 415) gives better rear traction, and the chassis flex brings out the tire's potentials. I say it is an excellent car for asphalt racing. Need to try out carpet next...
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Old 12-24-2007, 09:54 AM   #716
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Snydrome,

i ran 2.5mm in the front and 2 mm in the rear. it wasnt on the sheet...my bad

I ran the car at another local track of mine yesterday. It is pretty low grip track with some extremely dangerous boards! The car handled extremely well with the setup i posted on this forum. It seems to me this car works really well in med. to low bite tracks tracks. As for durability it is unbelievable.....i had a couple mishaps with these 90 degree angle boards and never broke a single part the whole day, i did however bend a swing shaft.

My next test for the car will be running it in foam modified/19T at the novak race in a week so i will really get to see how much it has improved! Before i go i plan on doin a comparison with my 415 foam car, so for you guys running foam tires stay tuned for the results.
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Old 12-24-2007, 10:11 AM   #717
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Cool, thanks. I'll give your setup a try as a starting point in a couple of days, we've got low-grip carpet where I'm racing.

The PDub 415 bumper showed up, and is definitely a big improvement over the stock bumper as far as hardness goes. It required a bit of chopping to make it fit right, but nothing too major. I'm waiting on the kydex part to show up from BRP to see how that does.
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Old 12-24-2007, 11:18 AM   #718
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So these aluminum ball studs... do they break off easily? I'm a little wary of them snapping off in the aluminum bulkheads or steering rack. Has that been a problem? If they do snap, is it flush so it's impossible to extract the broken piece?

I have some of the fluorine ball studs, but in some places, the threads are too short so I can get the length the same as the stock pieces, even with the right number of shims. Most notably, the pieces in the steering rack, and the rear bulkheads.
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Old 12-24-2007, 11:50 AM   #719
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I wouldn't say they are prone to breaking, but it is a somewhat of a weak spot. I would either use steel versions or these in the pics with steel studs. That's what I use and it's nearly bullet proof.

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So these aluminum ball studs... do they break off easily? I'm a little wary of them snapping off in the aluminum bulkheads or steering rack. Has that been a problem? If they do snap, is it flush so it's impossible to extract the broken piece?

I have some of the fluorine ball studs, but in some places, the threads are too short so I can get the length the same as the stock pieces, even with the right number of shims. Most notably, the pieces in the steering rack, and the rear bulkheads.
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Old 12-24-2007, 01:19 PM   #720
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I wouldn't say they are prone to breaking, but it is a somewhat of a weak spot. I would either use steel versions or these in the pics with steel studs. That's what I use and it's nearly bullet proof.
Steel studs? Like a long setscrew?
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