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Old 11-15-2009, 05:27 AM   #7081
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Originally Posted by or8ital View Post
Aside from the belt tensioner on the upper deck it appears everything would work. As long as the battery didn't interfere with the long belt.
The drive pulleys front and back won't clear the chassiss unless you enlarge the holes or nothch the lower plate.
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Old 11-15-2009, 05:36 AM   #7082
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I can see all Tamiya Guys using Short arms with 1mm spacers so Whats the point to using them?
how about Normal 416 Arms with no spacers? is that good enough with D/D blocks or Short arms must have?
Cheers
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Old 11-15-2009, 10:31 AM   #7083
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I can see all Tamiya Guys using Short arms with 1mm spacers so Whats the point to using them?
how about Normal 416 Arms with no spacers? is that good enough with D/D blocks or Short arms must have?
Cheers
The short arms change the piviot points and the roll centres... put it this way, you WANT the short arms
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Old 11-15-2009, 10:40 AM   #7084
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On another point, I've said this before, I still don't see the massive benefit of flipping the drivetrain, as the two heaviest components can't be moved (motor, steering). Fair enough the speedo can be moved in, but if your using one with a fan, you'll struggle to get it under the top deck, and you can move it in that far anyway, without flipping.
So that leaves the reciever... and really is a 7g reciever going to make a huge difference, especially as it's reducing the lever effect. IMO, is it worth it? No
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Last edited by TryHard; 11-15-2009 at 10:51 AM.
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Old 11-15-2009, 11:26 AM   #7085
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CraigM,

You have a PM.
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Old 11-15-2009, 11:31 AM   #7086
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The short arms change the piviot points and the roll centres... put it this way, you WANT the short arms
ordered some
p.s thanx for thard forums great for any newbeee like me
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Old 11-15-2009, 11:36 AM   #7087
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ordered some
p.s thanx for thard forums great for any newbeee like me
you will need 1C or 1D front suspension blocks

1X or 1XA rear front blocks and 1E or 1D rear rear blocks

this widens the car again slightly

you may also need differant length driveshafts depending on what you have already

i use 46 front(when using 1D 1D) 44mm (when using 1C 1C) and 42 rear
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Old 11-15-2009, 02:03 PM   #7088
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cheers mate
that's my plan when I got my blocks, D-D front 1xa-E rear 3degrees
not sure about front shafts 46 or 44 with spool but seems like 46 better...
as I've mentioned before I hate twitchy cars Xray is so easy to drive I do hope 416 work as good as xray because one of my friend now switched to xray and thinks small inputs on steering makes big impacts on 416 compared to xray and I should be very smooth...
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Old 11-15-2009, 02:42 PM   #7089
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On another point, I've said this before, I still don't see the massive benefit of flipping the drivetrain, as the two heaviest components can't be moved (motor, steering).
Iīve been testing this flipping drivetrain thing on my car tonight. At first my car was about 1415g and electric side was a lot heavier even though I had all extra weight on battery side. I needed about 30g on top of battery to get it quite balanced. I also had 40grams outside my battery to move weight as much to the battery side. Now my car is 1355g and i will need only about 15g more on battery side to get it balanced. If I move my transponder to the battery side it will be basicly balanced.

I flipped the drivetrain, changed the outside servoholder to the inside so servo moved about 8mm more inward. I think Iīll put it like in yokomo, only one holder and servotape under it so no need for outside servoholder. Speedo and receiver moved also almost 10mm more inward. Lipo moved about 8mm out. For holding battery I have weights that go into battery slots and Iīll glue those to the battery. Now I have 56g weight under battery and thatīs the only weights I have in my car. I think that left rear will be a lot heavier than others if i could check the corner weights. Hopefully itīs not a too big problem.

With these big diameter Xenon tires diffs up seems to be the best option to have to get the driveshafts runing more lined up, so clearance to the chassis is not a problem. I think there will be enough gap even when running diffs low. There is also a possibility that rear diff will come loose as it is running another direction from what it is designed for, hopefully it wonīt..

Picture after the mod

Iīm really looking forward to test my car in this setup.
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Old 11-15-2009, 04:06 PM   #7090
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I can see you've cut your Top deck both on front and rear ...
Could you Please tell us how does your car feels??
Cheers
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Old 11-15-2009, 04:18 PM   #7091
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I can see you've cut your Top deck both on front and rear ...
Could you Please tell us how does your car feels??
Cheers
Cutting top deck makes the car easier to drive, it goes smoother through turns (not as edgy) and it turns a bit more overall.
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Old 11-15-2009, 05:15 PM   #7092
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I clearly rear point but not sure the Front
you cut the Front link also where the screw hole is thats right isnt it?
Thanx for the info
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Old 11-15-2009, 05:43 PM   #7093
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you cut the Front link also where the screw hole is thats right isnt it?
Thanx for the info
You mean the steering brace? didnīt quite understand.
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Old 11-15-2009, 06:34 PM   #7094
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Can anyone tell me if the 416 will fit a Intellect IP3800 or IP5000 (both with corrally style tube connectors) in it without the need for any trays or anything??

Do they clear the top deck?
Can you get the connectors in?

Thanks in advance.....
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Old 11-15-2009, 06:54 PM   #7095
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You mean the steering brace? didnīt quite understand.
Sorry...
Could you please Point me which part of the top deck has to be cut?
Cheers
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