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Old 11-01-2009, 08:21 PM   #6976
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It could also be as easy as a tweaked chassis. Set your chassis on droop blocks and make sure it sits perfectly flat or all of your other adjustments will go out of alignment.
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Old 11-01-2009, 08:44 PM   #6977
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Guys, do your 416WE has even steering left and right? Coz mine always understeer when I turn right, turning left is fine with lots of steering. I also notice my car changes direction quicker to the left than right. I have check and set my steering throw evenly on my set up station. I m using Sanwa 801SDX servo and the steering rod is almost 90deg from the saver to the steering rack. Is it my car is tweak or unbalance left / right?
check it for tweak as the others have suggested, then put it on a tweak bar and see if you have a heavy corner causing you problems.
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Old 11-01-2009, 09:38 PM   #6978
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Thanks for your input guys, I ll check my car again tonight.
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Old 11-01-2009, 11:23 PM   #6979
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Old 11-02-2009, 06:11 AM   #6980
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I am looking for more steering entering tight corner using rubber tire on carpet
the car works good but just a tad more steering will be nice, any suggestion.

Thanks.

Last edited by Ramyuras; 11-02-2009 at 09:42 AM.
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Old 11-02-2009, 07:10 AM   #6981
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I am looking for more steering intering tight corner using rubber tire on carpet
the car works good but just a tad more steering will be nice, any suggestion.

Thanks.
What blocks are you running up front? If you're using D/D, you could try C/C. Or, if you've got spacers on the outside of the hexes, or wider hexes, try going narrower. You can also try the soft IFS c-hubs made for the TA05 series cars, as they're a direct fit on the 416. They're much softer, much harder to break, and will generally yield more steering. Also, you could try more ackermann spacers.

You can also try freeing up the rear of the car if it's too stuck. Maybe try .5mm shims under the rear blocks, raise the inside camber links, less rear toe, looser diff. If you do try any of these, I'd go one at a time, it's not difficult to go too far and end up with a loose car.
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Old 11-02-2009, 10:25 AM   #6982
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any one using one of these ??

if so how is it holding up ??

i need a new chassis plate and want to protect it more

also would you buy the World Edition chassis or a normal chassis plate ???

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWAX:IT
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Old 11-02-2009, 11:59 AM   #6983
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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
What blocks are you running up front? If you're using D/D, you could try C/C. Or, if you've got spacers on the outside of the hexes, or wider hexes, try going narrower. You can also try the soft IFS c-hubs made for the TA05 series cars, as they're a direct fit on the 416. They're much softer, much harder to break, and will generally yield more steering. Also, you could try more ackermann spacers.

You can also try freeing up the rear of the car if it's too stuck. Maybe try .5mm shims under the rear blocks, raise the inside camber links, less rear toe, looser diff. If you do try any of these, I'd go one at a time, it's not difficult to go too far and end up with a loose car.
Thank you for helping.
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Old 11-02-2009, 03:59 PM   #6984
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The Atomic LCD's are about the same length as the 44mm CVD's. I prefer to run 46mm up front, so as such, I now have two brand new sets of LCD's for sale. Send me a PM if you're interested, US only please.
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Old 11-02-2009, 06:57 PM   #6985
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The Atomic LCD's are about the same length as the 44mm CVD's. I prefer to run 46mm up front, so as such, I now have two brand new sets of LCD's for sale. Send me a PM if you're interested, US only please.
You are supposed to use them and tell the rest of us if they are any good
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Old 11-02-2009, 07:13 PM   #6986
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You are supposed to use them and tell the rest of us if they are any good
I'd be all over it if they were 46mm, but I'm concerned the 44's will eat up spool inserts.

Everything I hear about LCD's seems to suggest they're an improvement all around. I hope Tamiya makes some (in various lengths).
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Old 11-02-2009, 08:35 PM   #6987
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I'd be all over it if they were 46mm, but I'm concerned the 44's will eat up spool inserts.

Everything I hear about LCD's seems to suggest they're an improvement all around. I hope Tamiya makes some (in various lengths).
What about trying them with the steel spool drives I think 3r makes them. If I ever get mine I'll try them and let you know. Gotta try them.
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Old 11-02-2009, 09:11 PM   #6988
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
I'd be all over it if they were 46mm, but I'm concerned the 44's will eat up spool inserts.

Everything I hear about LCD's seems to suggest they're an improvement all around. I hope Tamiya makes some (in various lengths).
Question, do they fit without hitting the chubs lock to lock? I know the XRay ones hit lock to lock when put in tamiya chubs.

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Old 11-02-2009, 10:31 PM   #6989
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Question, do they fit without hitting the chubs lock to lock? I know the XRay ones hit lock to lock when put in tamiya chubs.

They come with a narrower bearing for the back part of the steering knuckle that allows them to sit deeper inside. I didn't test the clearance, but presumably, this is how they got around the issue you're having. Pretty clever, really.
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Old 11-02-2009, 10:36 PM   #6990
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Sounds cool. I think I posted that pic several months back when I had a 009. I just wanted to bring it back up again to see how/if they resolved that issue. Thanks for letting me know how they did it. I might give it a try in the BD5 since the axles are the same size/interchangeable. One option you might have before getting rid of them is finding out what the lengths are of the other LCD bones. Maybe you can interchange them if they are longer.
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