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Old 10-09-2009, 09:18 PM   #6796
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man im a serious whore when it comes down to the 416 but hanging on to my 416we seems like the logical choice right now even with the subtle improvements done to the 416x. now that lipo is legal for ifmar that means to me that further chassis design changes are inevitable mr. anderson(haha) exotek seems to be on par with that by the lipo chassis' they make for the tc5 and cyclone so i think to wait longer would be wise.
what say ya'll
Have you ever put a deflection meter on a stock chassiss to see how much torsional twist you get out of stock chassis over a "lipo special chassis", and why do they continue to run thinner chassis in rubber. Just some ?'s that have me scratching my head. I also remember a chassiss that had similar cut outs on both sides of the chassiss, I think it was a Corally, but they aren't continuing that process either. I thought the whole idea behind the lay of the matting of a carbon fiber plate could be manipulated to twist whichever way the designer wanted it to, stiff or floppy.
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Old 10-09-2009, 10:08 PM   #6797
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ok
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Old 10-09-2009, 11:53 PM   #6798
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Gary, Ollie's setup is very good.I will definately run it at the Big Chill next week and see what it can do.
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Old 10-10-2009, 06:02 AM   #6799
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Looking at the pics again, the top deck also splays out further towards the rear. This is needed to allow the motor to be 1mm closer in and have clearance with the top deck:


On the WE, the motor actually butts up against the upper deck:


So to use the new motor mount on the WE, you would need to also use the top deck. And to use the new upper deck, it looks like you might need the new rear lower bulkheads and layshaft support so all the holes line up...
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Old 10-10-2009, 08:25 AM   #6800
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how long does your diff and thrust bearing last before you have to sand down & rebuild your diff ?

mine seems to start feeling gritty after 1 weekend

any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 10-10-2009, 08:36 AM   #6801
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how long does your diff and thrust bearing last before you have to sand down & rebuild your diff ?

mine seems to start feeling gritty after 1 weekend

any help would be greatly appreciated.
Mine go anywhere from 5-10 racedays running mod. Try using Associated Silicon diff grease, and Associated black grease on the thrust. Also be sure to use carbide diff balls.
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Old 10-10-2009, 02:40 PM   #6802
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Hey guys, not sure where to find the info, but which lipo plet is the best for the 416? And where to order online. I need to be 1500grams so I have to add alot of lead
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Old 10-10-2009, 05:04 PM   #6803
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Hey guys, not sure where to find the info, but which lipo plet is the best for the 416? And where to order online. I need to be 1500grams so I have to add alot of lead
Funny you should bring that up. I just finished my 416WE and it came out to 1320g ready to race.

I have to be at 1500 as well, so I ordered the 416/416WE lipo plate from Manutech:

http://www.manutech.info/rcracinghom...gproducts.html
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Old 10-10-2009, 06:27 PM   #6804
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all this talk about weight got me to thinking and tweaking..

for those that want to use 4 scales( its almost imposibe unless you do as try hard did and make each shock position the same length with ti-rods)

step 1 = a level surface

step 2 = hudy balance post


as you can see when i switech to 4 scales the combined weight for the right rear and left rear, as well as the left front and right front do not equal the weight show on the 2 scale method( granted i did get it pretty close)
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Old 10-10-2009, 10:18 PM   #6805
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Pete, with that playe the lipo hangs out the side right? Is there anyway around that? Maybe the PPD bilet plate? But it is only 86 grams or so.
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Old 10-11-2009, 01:56 PM   #6806
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Pete, with that playe the lipo hangs out the side right? Is there anyway around that? Maybe the PPD bilet plate? But it is only 86 grams or so.
The plate does hang off the side slightly, but that is just to achieve better side/side balance. The Manutech plate is also raised on the sides so that if you get hit the pack is less likely to eject than with the flat plates.
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Old 10-11-2009, 08:30 PM   #6807
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonC View Post
all this talk about weight got me to thinking and tweaking..

for those that want to use 4 scales( its almost imposibe unless you do as try hard did and make each shock position the same length with ti-rods)

step 1 = a level surface

step 2 = hudy balance post


as you can see when i switech to 4 scales the combined weight for the right rear and left rear, as well as the left front and right front do not equal the weight show on the 2 scale method( granted i did get it pretty close)

you can also try just using two scales on the back & just lift up the front just like when your checking for tweak. this way the "slight" tweak on your car wont affect the balance. then do the same thing on the front, this will give you a better idea of where your balance is.
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Old 10-11-2009, 09:01 PM   #6808
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Instead of making the shock links like Ed did, you could just cut 4 pieces of fuel line the same length and slit them to slide over your shock shafts to block the shocks and then scale it out.
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Old 10-11-2009, 10:26 PM   #6809
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Instead of making the shock links like Ed did, you could just cut 4 pieces of fuel line the same length and slit them to slide over your shock shafts to block the shocks and then scale it out.
As long as all for shock are the same length and can not compress at all fuel tubing will allow a little just a little bit of compression.

turnbuckles will allow for a more accuaracy (sp)
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Old 10-12-2009, 08:43 AM   #6810
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As long as all for shock are the same length and can not compress at all fuel tubing will allow a little just a little bit of compression.

turnbuckles will allow for a more accuaracy (sp)
I would think your shock lengths should be equal lengths always, if not, thats a start point. Also the compression of the fuel line is going to be nothing, as in, not enough to even factor in........unless your car weighs a ton. JMO
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