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Old 09-24-2009, 08:55 PM   #6691
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I didn't keep the package that the 46s came in, I actually picked up a package that had 46 steel axles, 42 aluminum axles, the pins, float pins, setscrews and outdrives, since all my stuff was pretty worn out anyway. I don't think the outdrives are the exact replacements, but would work in a pinch and was chaeper than buying each piece seperately.............just sucks I don't have the number, got it from Ampdraw though.
Yeah, I cherish my 46mm bones. I only have 2 pairs. Since I have 3 Tamiya touring cars, one of them has to be down for the count at all times. But now that Tamiya is selling them again, I can pick up another set and not worry about it. Use MuchMore Joint Lube after every other run and the bones won't wear out. I think you got lucky. Gotta find out the kit that the bag you got came from. Then just look up the part number in the instruction manual.
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Old 09-24-2009, 09:23 PM   #6692
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Alright, here's where I ended up at IIC. The setup is based pretty heavily on Corey's NEGS setup, so I can't take much credit. I thought the car was pretty fantastic, but the driver blew way too many lines. (Video here, I got second.)
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Old 09-24-2009, 09:25 PM   #6693
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Alright, here's where I ended up at IIC. The setup is based pretty heavily on Corey's NEGS setup, so I can't take much credit. I thought the car was pretty fantastic, but the driver blew way too many lines. (Video here, I got second.)
Sure............we should all have such bad runs, .
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Old 09-24-2009, 09:48 PM   #6694
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Sure............we should all have such bad runs, .
Ah, I'm just disappointed I didn't drive better, especially in 13.5. I spent a lot of time at the track this past year. I realized more than anything, I just need more time to get consistent at a layout. It seems like there's so many guys that can throw their cars down and be as fast as they're going to get within a pack or two. I'm not sure how to practice that other than attend more big races, but that's quite a task.

I'm pleased with how things went in 17.5, though it's kind of a miracle considering the attitudes shown by some folks on the track. It's unfortunate, it really left me feeling pretty bummed the whole week.
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Old 09-24-2009, 10:07 PM   #6695
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Syndrome, I know what your saying. I myself spent several weeks prior to the race practicing, problem was, practicing the wrong way, just enforcing my same bad habits, and not getting any faster. Once I realized it, I really never got a good way of fixing it, but went with a different attitude. I was pretty happy with my final finish, after all how many times do you get a chance to play with your rc car for 5 days straight. What you pick up on is invaluable, the people you meet, are mostly pretty neat. Stuff like this can never be replecated. Remember its still just a hobby, there is only one winner and a lot of runner ups, its not a that big a deal. You had a good run, cherish it, it may the last high point of your rc racing career.
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Old 09-27-2009, 11:26 AM   #6696
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Whats this doing on the third page... tsk...

Randy, YGPM... need help!
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Old 09-27-2009, 11:54 AM   #6697
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Whats this doing on the third page... tsk...

Randy, YGPM... need help!
you need help ?? must be serious
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Old 09-27-2009, 05:07 PM   #6698
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has anyone tried mounting a saddle pack in this car?

half between the motor and servo, half on the other side with the rx and esc. Just wondering if anyone has tried it

I was thinking it might balance out the car if the saddle pack fit under the top deack and if the belts were flipped so the pack could be mounted as far to the right as possible
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Old 09-27-2009, 05:37 PM   #6699
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has anyone tried mounting a saddle pack in this car?

half between the motor and servo, half on the other side with the rx and esc. Just wondering if anyone has tried it

I was thinking it might balance out the car if the saddle pack fit under the top deack and if the belts were flipped so the pack could be mounted as far to the right as possible
Don't know if anyone has tried it yet, you could be the first
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Old 09-27-2009, 05:38 PM   #6700
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you need help ?? must be serious
Nothin that can't be taken care of
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Old 09-27-2009, 06:33 PM   #6701
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Don't know if anyone has tried it yet, you could be the first

Nice, i feel motivated.

Ill post picks when i do it
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Old 09-27-2009, 07:53 PM   #6702
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Originally Posted by wstuart View Post
has anyone tried mounting a saddle pack in this car?

half between the motor and servo, half on the other side with the rx and esc. Just wondering if anyone has tried it

I was thinking it might balance out the car if the saddle pack fit under the top deack and if the belts were flipped so the pack could be mounted as far to the right as possible

Ive seen it done in a cyclone, looked neat, and had perfect L to R balance without trays and lead.
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Old 09-27-2009, 08:02 PM   #6703
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If your going to run a front diff you can get away with the 42mm axles, usually only run the 46mm axles when using a spool as the short axle seems to break the nylon spool cups, (pin out to far in the cup), since the diff would use pin cushions it shouldn't be a problem. Soory, no idea about where to get the parts, maybe rcmarket, but shipping is expensive for a small order like that. Try Ampdraw, in the US, they have a lot of Tamiya parts too.
Square has steel swing shafts in 40, 42, 44 and 46 and titanium ones in 42, 46 and 48.
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Old 09-27-2009, 08:43 PM   #6704
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im selling a new 416 ball diff, PM for details
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Old 09-28-2009, 02:27 PM   #6705
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Evening all...

So after part of my conversation with Randy was over setting up a car for lower LiPo weight (1350g is rumoured for BRCA/EFRA), so here we go... no phaffing with a scales or stuff, just a MIP tweak board.

First up, I set the car up with tie-rods instead of shocks (set equal L-R, and on the ends to give the right ride height) so I can get the weight balance sorted. Technically, this is setting the FR/RL and FL/RR cross-weight... but does the trick.
First two pic's show thats it's equal side to side when using the solid links instead of shocks. This is with the cells hanging over the edge the amount in the forth pic. I did try it with the cells in the usual slots, and suprise suprise, the weight was well off to the motor side

Next two pics are with it with shocks on... as you can see, spot on. Only change I had to make was one full turn on the RL shock collar. Supports the thinking that this is the heaviest side... so any extra lead I need to put on the car to get too 1350g (and I will need too, I'm pretty sure... got to 1400g with 60g of lead and a heavy motor fan recently!) will be going behind the cells to help, probably on the outside.

Some things to note... Cells can be tapped in happily using current slot, without obscuring the negative terminal...just! It's a little wobbly in the car atm, but I'm going to make up some light weight carbon locators for the bottom of the cells to hold them in place better
Also, with the cells out so far its now possible to access the bottom motor screw without removing the cells

So there we go, thats what I'll be running...

HiH
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Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X-links-front.jpg   Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X-links-rear.jpg   Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X-shocks-front.jpg   Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X-shocks-rear.jpg  
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