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Old 09-06-2009, 09:17 PM   #6451
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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
Not sure on build tips, but there's a few changes I'd make for the sake of durability.

Use 46mm steel CVD's up front. Get a Parma T2 bumper (requires slight modification). Replace the ball studs in the steering rack with the kind that are used for king pins. If you're bending the blue ball studs elsewhere, get the black steel ones. Put titanium steering rods on, camber links should be okay. Get the alum servo saver horn if you use a Tamiya saver and have a few savers in your box 'cause they got sloppy after a while. Consider getting the 2pc mounts for the F/R position if you're having trouble bending the flipped block. Consider getting some aluminum or soft plastic IFS c-hubs, the stock parts seem to break a little easily.

Other than that, I suggest reading through the all the tips on TryHard's site, and watching all the Jilles videos.
thanks mate
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Old 09-06-2009, 09:33 PM   #6452
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I think I'm going to head out there on Wed and check it out, wasn't able to make the race this year but I still want to drop by and hang out for a day.
Ah, cool, glad to see a little team support at the race, even if it's just to watch.
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Old 09-06-2009, 09:56 PM   #6453
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Ah, cool, glad to see a little team support at the race, even if it's just to watch.
Yeah, I wanted to make it, but unfortunately work's gotta come first, and I've been really busy with that lately..
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Old 09-07-2009, 02:09 AM   #6454
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[QUOTE=syndr0me;6310121]Not sure on build tips, but there's a few changes I'd make for the sake of durability.

Use 46mm steel CVD's up front. QUOTE]

Is it really the 46mm ?

I am also looking to getting the 416WE , and I see that the front in manual is 44mm and rear 42mm....

Part numbers 54078+54076 is what I am looking at , for the front - is it the wrong one ?
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Old 09-07-2009, 06:46 AM   #6455
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The car comes with 44's up front, but many of us have found that if you plan to use the spool, 46's are the way to go. They sit deeper in the spool cups, and keep them from breaking. My spool cups last forever now, where before they'd break with surprising ease. I'd recommend using steel in the front since the alum bones bend very easily. The part number is 51092, and is directly compatible with the hardware that comes with your kit.

Don't just take my word for it, though. Have a look at the videos RedRC did on the 416 with Jilles, and you'll see he too prefers to use 46's up front on his new kits. He mentions it in video 4 or 5.
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Old 09-07-2009, 07:48 AM   #6456
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The car comes with 44's up front, but many of us have found that if you plan to use the spool, 46's are the way to go. They sit deeper in the spool cups, and keep them from breaking. My spool cups last forever now, where before they'd break with surprising ease. I'd recommend using steel in the front since the alum bones bend very easily. The part number is 51092, and is directly compatible with the hardware that comes with your kit.

Don't just take my word for it, though. Have a look at the videos RedRC did on the 416 with Jilles, and you'll see he too prefers to use 46's up front on his new kits. He mentions it in video 4 or 5.
Cool, thanks - good to know.....I watched the first 3 videos , must still get around to the other 2
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Old 09-07-2009, 04:00 PM   #6457
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Ive been looking at some of jilles outdoor setups and Ive been noticing alot of them have 0 rebound in the shocks.

Just wondering what effect this would have on handeling. Ive always gone with about 80 - 100 % rebound
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Old 09-07-2009, 04:24 PM   #6458
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Hey all,

Finally got around to start building my 416 last night and made a huge mess with the CA glue.

Was just wondering what the best method is to remove it from the surface of the chassis?

Thanks.
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Old 09-07-2009, 04:42 PM   #6459
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If you go to the hobby store, they sometimes have Ca debonder next to the CA glue selection. That stuff works wonders. If they have it, look for the stuff by bob smith industries, it seems to work the best. Just let it sit on the glue for a few min, then wipe away. You might have to reapply it, but it will get the glue off eventually and not hurt anything else.

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Old 09-07-2009, 05:00 PM   #6460
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Originally Posted by wstuart View Post
Ive been looking at some of jilles outdoor setups and Ive been noticing alot of them have 0 rebound in the shocks.

Just wondering what effect this would have on handeling. Ive always gone with about 80 - 100 % rebound
More rebound will give your car quicker left to right and forward to back transitions. For Rays track (and probably DHW) I would run about 3-4mm rebound all around.
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Old 09-07-2009, 05:05 PM   #6461
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Acetone removes CA pretty well. You should be able to get some at a hardware store. A lot of offroad guys soak their used mounted tyres in the stuff in order to reuse the rims.
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Old 09-07-2009, 05:31 PM   #6462
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Im looking for Marc Rhenhard or Jilles Groskamp rubber carpet setups. Cant find them anywhere. Can someone point me in the right direction.
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Old 09-07-2009, 05:36 PM   #6463
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Im looking for Marc Rhenhard or Jilles Groskamp rubber carpet setups. Cant find them anywhere. Can someone point me in the right direction.
http://www.thard.co.uk/viewforum.php...b64a3679923779
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Old 09-07-2009, 06:26 PM   #6464
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Acetone removes CA pretty well. You should be able to get some at a hardware store. A lot of offroad guys soak their used mounted tyres in the stuff in order to reuse the rims.
Loctite make a great CA removing gel, apply it to the mess, put a tissue over it, and leave it to soak overnight, you will be able to wipe it completely off in the morning. Leaves the part spanking new.
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Old 09-07-2009, 08:35 PM   #6465
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Here's a pic of the new "Cribbin built" TRF416WE

Bit of a departure for a loyal Xray owner, though the Xray turnbuckles & other touches will make it a bit more Xray"ish"..
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Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X-trf416we.jpg  
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