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Old 12-18-2007, 12:36 AM   #631
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I think me too...
Maybe "TRF 416MS" OR "TRF 416 MRE"

I don't know but I might be wrong its still looks like a 415... with little tweaks...

Maybe some guys here are already thinking of what the MS OR MRE kit might look like.
i'm think after some month !
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Old 12-18-2007, 06:38 AM   #632
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How stiff is the stock foam bumper for the 416?
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Old 12-18-2007, 07:21 AM   #633
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Default Cost of 416 in Japan

How much are the 416 kits going for in Japan, if purchased in Japan?
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Old 12-18-2007, 07:50 AM   #634
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How much are the 416 kits going for in Japan, if purchased in Japan?
From RC Champ they are going for 46500 Japanese yen = 412.45500 U.S. dollars. That price includes the Titanium and Aluminum Blue screw set. Depending upon how you pay there are certain charges and shipping. Shipping to me in VA is about $35 through EMS (Japan shipping service).

Mine is on it's way!!
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Old 12-18-2007, 07:58 AM   #635
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Thanks Apex for the info.

Anybody know what the price is at Super Radiocon in Akiharbara?

Thanks



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From RC Champ they are going for 46500 Japanese yen = 412.45500 U.S. dollars. That price includes the Titanium and Aluminum Blue screw set. Depending upon how you pay there are certain charges and shipping. Shipping to me in VA is about $35 through EMS (Japan shipping service).

Mine is on it's way!!
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Old 12-18-2007, 08:00 AM   #636
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Originally Posted by Swift and Sleek View Post
I think me too...
Maybe "TRF 416MS" OR "TRF 416 MRE"

I don't know but I might be wrong its still looks like a 415... with little tweaks...

Maybe some guys here are already thinking of what the MS OR MRE kit might look like.
That's pretty much what I think. Probably because team guys kept digging out their original 415s for big races. So why not just make a more refined, easier to work on, less slop version.

If I can place the new C-hub assembly on my original 415 I would be happy with that.
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Old 12-18-2007, 09:16 AM   #637
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Finally got my 416 today! Upon opening the box, I did a chassis comparo with my TA05MS... It's like 3-4mm closer to the center on the 416. As for the blue parts, I like the textured finish on them(looks like powder coat). The suspension mounts still had the shiny style.

btw, the diff is improved a lot this time. So much smoother. Several mechanical ups too. Stuff such as the hole so you can adjust the diff w/o taking anything off, and the nut that holds the diff spring in is now alloy.
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Old 12-18-2007, 07:17 PM   #638
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One complaint. The reversible suspension arms shaft holes are slightly big, causing it to have some slop. When I used the same shaft on some old spares, the fit was snug, and no slop. I wonder if the mold that tamiya uses is wearing away. Heard somewhere that FRP causes more wear upon production... Anyone else notice this?
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Old 12-18-2007, 07:24 PM   #639
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One complaint. The reversible suspension arms shaft holes are slightly big, causing it to have some slop. When I used the same shaft on some old spares, the fit was snug, and no slop. I wonder if the mold that tamiya uses is wearing away. Heard somewhere that FRP causes more wear upon production... Anyone else notice this?
Interesting finding... But it wouldn't be due to wear as the hole would be created by a pin during the moulding process. Any wear to the pin would therefore make the hole smaller not bigger. Maybe more shrinkage on a certain batch.
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Old 12-18-2007, 07:36 PM   #640
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yeah, all four holes have the same slop. I'm putting my old ones on and use these for emergency spares I guess

Also, the 0.5mm shims on the suspension shaft it too big and will bind. I had to use series of 0.1 shims to get it right.

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Old 12-18-2007, 10:21 PM   #641
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yeah, all four holes have the same slop. I'm putting my old ones on and use these for emergency spares I guess

Also, the 0.5mm shims on the suspension shaft it too big and will bind. I had to use series of 0.1 shims to get it right.
Exact same experience here, on both counts.

I drove the car tonight, briefly. I was getting used to the setup, and smacked a board almost square with the front of the car. It was a decent smack, but not something I haven't done countless times with another car without any damage. This smack bent a dog bone, broke both chubs, broke a steering knuckle, and bent both front steering arms. The dog bone rolled up and wasn't able to be fixed, ending my night before it started. Bummer.

Presumably, a better bumper will help this, so I guess I'll give a P-Dub a try unless there's something better? I'll also be getting the titanium links, even though they're not pretty blue.

The thing I'm not sure about is the front bones. Are they available in some other material, maybe steel or something? I've never seen a bone roll up like that, and I've had many spectacular crashes over the years.

Anyway, I'm pretty bummed I didn't get more time with the car after working so hard on it the last two days, but I'll chalk it up to not being familiar with the car, its weak spots, and new quirks. Admittedly, our current track is very tight and technical, and has been brutal on parts for many of its drivers.
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Old 12-18-2007, 10:48 PM   #642
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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
Exact same experience here, on both counts.

I drove the car tonight, briefly. I was getting used to the setup, and smacked a board almost square with the front of the car. It was a decent smack, but not something I haven't done countless times with another car without any damage. This smack bent a dog bone, broke both chubs, broke a steering knuckle, and bent both front steering arms. The dog bone rolled up and wasn't able to be fixed, ending my night before it started. Bummer.

Presumably, a better bumper will help this, so I guess I'll give a P-Dub a try unless there's something better? I'll also be getting the titanium links, even though they're not pretty blue.

The thing I'm not sure about is the front bones. Are they available in some other material, maybe steel or something? I've never seen a bone roll up like that, and I've had many spectacular crashes over the years.

Anyway, I'm pretty bummed I didn't get more time with the car after working so hard on it the last two days, but I'll chalk it up to not being familiar with the car, its weak spots, and new quirks. Admittedly, our current track is very tight and technical, and has been brutal on parts for many of its drivers.
What motor are you running, and how fast were you going?
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Old 12-18-2007, 11:11 PM   #643
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What motor are you running, and how fast were you going?
Novak 13.5, rubber tires (CS27) on carpet. I was neutral power, and initiating a turn at the end of a straight, so I was carrying some speed. The car over rotated (new car, rough setup), and came into the board with a little bit of an angle, though nearly square. With other cars, a stiffer bumper is usually the first thing we try to stop this type of damage.
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Old 12-18-2007, 11:35 PM   #644
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So I continued on with the assembly, and noticed something else. That little blue piece that holds down the front of the motor mount get REALLY close to my battery bars. Luckily, the mount has another screw hole and a hole in the chassis for it, so I just used a 1mm spacer to cover the gap between, and screwed it down direct.

Aside from the suspension arms, this kit is solid, and looks good. Kinda worried for the front dog bones since they are aluminum. I think I can use my 46mm steel ones if I take the orings out of the drive cups for the oneway. I've done cartwheels in the air with those, and never broke yet lol.

Still need to work on the electrics, but hope to test it out soon!
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Old 12-18-2007, 11:40 PM   #645
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Let me know if the steel 46's work for you without the o-rings, I'll order some up right away. Before my mishap, even with the setup needing some help, the car felt much more stable than anything I'd driven before. I'm excited to get some more wheel time with it, and start getting the setup closer to my liking.
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