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Old 08-01-2009, 07:22 AM   #6136
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Those are just HPI silver springs.
You mean HPI 6543, right?
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Old 08-01-2009, 07:59 AM   #6137
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That's them.
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Old 08-01-2009, 08:03 AM   #6138
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yep the slipper diff will be for the front, john, sidecar i'll have a pic up soon with the parts all out then a full build look as well. i tried it out last saturday and it works awesome! for now im going to the beach laterz
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Old 08-01-2009, 08:36 AM   #6139
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yep the slipper diff will be for the front, john, sidecar i'll have a pic up soon with the parts all out then a full build look as well. i tried it out last saturday and it works awesome! for now im going to the beach laterz
I thought so, really the slipper diff's drive like spools, but on impact they will give, rather than being solid, so you save your universals and outdrives.
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Old 08-01-2009, 09:02 AM   #6140
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... the slipper diff's drive like spools, but on impact they will give, rather than being solid, so you save your universals and outdrives.
That's what I thought too, which is why it is difficult to envisage why they would allow the same turn in as a ball diff. Sure, I can imagine there would be some point where if you try long enough you can have your slipper give in turns and lock on straights but I would imagine it is a much more delicate adjustment than a straight ball diff simply because friction on the slipper pads is higher than on rolling balls (which is why you have to tighten a ball diff a lot to lock it).
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Old 08-01-2009, 12:09 PM   #6141
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Yupp! I going to build a spliff for the front with Traxxas #4685 friction pegs where the 3mm balls went. Sounds like a great place for the old thrust ball and rings too! No more chewed up drive dogs either.
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Old 08-01-2009, 01:02 PM   #6142
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That's what I thought too, which is why it is difficult to envisage why they would allow the same turn in as a ball diff. Sure, I can imagine there would be some point where if you try long enough you can have your slipper give in turns and lock on straights but I would imagine it is a much more delicate adjustment than a straight ball diff simply because friction on the slipper pads is higher than on rolling balls (which is why you have to tighten a ball diff a lot to lock it).
The only reason a diff works is because it has balls, or gears that will allow the outdrives to spin in opposite directions around corners. The pegs will either slip, or not slip depending on how tight they are. It won't just allow one of the outdrives to slip around a corner without slipping in a straight line when the car is on power.
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Old 08-01-2009, 01:13 PM   #6143
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The only reason a diff works is because it has balls, or gears that will allow the outdrives to spin in opposite directions around corners. The pegs will either slip, or not slip depending on how tight they are. It won't just allow one of the outdrives to slip around a corner without slipping in a straight line when the car is on power.
Right,,, its just a buffer to remove the shock of instant stops from crashing. The bones, output drivers, axles... the entire drive line is isolated from damage by ... oh hell you get it right!
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Old 08-01-2009, 01:21 PM   #6144
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I've been running a slipper spool for 6mo. now, and it never came loose on me. I really should be maintaining it, but if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

I used the three extra holes in the inner part of the pulley. you will need to shave some materials off to get them into the hole, and make sure you shave the flat side so you still have a diff function(about 3.0-3.1mm)

I've read somewhere that Kawada makes slipper pegs to the correct dimensions. Anyone seen these?

Weight wise, it was surprisingly only about a couple grams heavier.


On a side note, do you guys use the softer TA05 IFS-R c-hubs for prefer the stock ones? The IFS-R ones have give, but gives so much that it tears the bottom screw out of the knuckle. And the c-hub won't go back to its original dimension, giving the knuckle huge play. Then again, it wouldn't have mattered if it was a crash that big...
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Old 08-01-2009, 01:23 PM   #6145
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I've been running a slipper spool for 6mo. now, and it never came loose on me. I really should be maintaining it, but if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

I used the three extra holes in the inner part of the pulley. you will need to shave some materials off to get them into the hole, and make sure you shave the flat side so you still have a diff function(about 3.0-3.1mm)

Weight wise, it was surprisingly only about a couple grams heavier.


On a side note, do you guys use the softer TA05 IFS-R c-hubs for prefer the stock ones? The IFS-R ones have give, but gives so much that it tears the bottom screw out of the knuckle. And the c-hub won't go back to its original dimension, giving the knuckle huge play. Then again, it wouldn't have mattered if it was a crash that big...
I use the softer IFS ones ,, try using a longer screw.
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Old 08-01-2009, 01:51 PM   #6146
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I use the softer IFS ones ,, try using a longer screw.
ok, I just sanded down a regular steel screw to 11mm (end to end) and pretty much filled the entire hole. The standard one that goes in there is 9.6mm so I gained about 1.4mm of thread which should hold stronger to a point...
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Old 08-01-2009, 03:08 PM   #6147
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whosever gonna build a slipper diff... when i ran mine i checked it before and after every race and i can tell you that with a 10.5 or higher (13.5, 17.5 etc.) it doesnt slip as much as one would think. try it with the traxxas pegs or with associated slipper pads, i use the assoc. slipper pads and it works very well for me. what you need... outdrives(51342), thrust bearing assembly and screw and nut(51341,9949300), for the spring use thick washer about 2-3mm, and for the pads either use associated pads or the traxxas pegs(i heard they need to be shortened which is a pain in da ass cause you need to measure them for same length) on the thrust bearing coat it with assoc. black grease and on the thrust screw light coat of gorilla glue. put it all toghether and it should work perfectly. remember no diff rings and no diff balls duh
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Old 08-01-2009, 03:17 PM   #6148
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here you go
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Last edited by sonic31; 10-21-2009 at 04:40 PM.
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Old 08-01-2009, 05:07 PM   #6149
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ok, I just sanded down a regular steel screw to 11mm (end to end) and pretty much filled the entire hole. The standard one that goes in there is 9.6mm so I gained about 1.4mm of thread which should hold stronger to a point...
My kit came with 8mm ones there..
I put in the 10mm and have pretty lucky with it.
The WE caster blocks are way too brittle for my car. :P
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Old 08-01-2009, 05:10 PM   #6150
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whosever gonna build a slipper diff... when i ran mine i checked it before and after every race and i can tell you that with a 10.5 or higher (13.5, 17.5 etc.) it doesnt slip as much as one would think. try it with the traxxas pegs or with associated slipper pads, i use the assoc. slipper pads and it works very well for me. what you need... outdrives(51342), thrust bearing assembly and screw and nut(51341,9949300), for the spring use thick washer about 2-3mm, and for the pads either use associated pads or the traxxas pegs(i heard they need to be shortened which is a pain in da ass cause you need to measure them for same length) on the thrust bearing coat it with assoc. black grease and on the thrust screw light coat of gorilla glue. put it all toghether and it should work perfectly. remember no diff rings and no diff balls duh
To quote Bo and Luke whilst riding captive...
"No Balls!"
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