Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
#5761
Tech Regular
Quick question relating to the steering arm....
The manual clearly says that you should centre the steering rack and have the servo saver pointing straight up.
However, on previous cars I have owned, we've always run the servo arm off-set so that when the wheels are straight and the steering rack is central, the servo arm forms a 90 degree angle with the steering link rod (ie the one connecting the servo arm to the steering rack). On the previous cars I have owned, this was to even up the steering speed left-right.
Has anyone done this on the 416?
Many thanks
Oli
The manual clearly says that you should centre the steering rack and have the servo saver pointing straight up.
However, on previous cars I have owned, we've always run the servo arm off-set so that when the wheels are straight and the steering rack is central, the servo arm forms a 90 degree angle with the steering link rod (ie the one connecting the servo arm to the steering rack). On the previous cars I have owned, this was to even up the steering speed left-right.
Has anyone done this on the 416?
Many thanks
Oli
#5762
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Quick question relating to the steering arm....
The manual clearly says that you should centre the steering rack and have the servo saver pointing straight up.
However, on previous cars I have owned, we've always run the servo arm off-set so that when the wheels are straight and the steering rack is central, the servo arm forms a 90 degree angle with the steering link rod (ie the one connecting the servo arm to the steering rack). On the previous cars I have owned, this was to even up the steering speed left-right.
Has anyone done this on the 416?
Many thanks
Oli
The manual clearly says that you should centre the steering rack and have the servo saver pointing straight up.
However, on previous cars I have owned, we've always run the servo arm off-set so that when the wheels are straight and the steering rack is central, the servo arm forms a 90 degree angle with the steering link rod (ie the one connecting the servo arm to the steering rack). On the previous cars I have owned, this was to even up the steering speed left-right.
Has anyone done this on the 416?
Many thanks
Oli
#5763
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Ackerman, you should never need to run more than 6mm, and thats an extreme.
Also, I would personally go to MORE shims under the inner rear link, it reduces the camber change and really helps to free up the car. Try 4mm.
Use the shims under the blocks (use 0.5mm under the both the rears, always), and outer link position to alter the roll centre.
HiH
Ed
#5764
Are you in the forward holes in the steering blocks ?
If not ,,, that might do it.
#5765
Quick question relating to the steering arm....
The manual clearly says that you should centre the steering rack and have the servo saver pointing straight up.
However, on previous cars I have owned, we've always run the servo arm off-set so that when the wheels are straight and the steering rack is central, the servo arm forms a 90 degree angle with the steering link rod (ie the one connecting the servo arm to the steering rack). On the previous cars I have owned, this was to even up the steering speed left-right.
Has anyone done this on the 416?
Many thanks
Oli
The manual clearly says that you should centre the steering rack and have the servo saver pointing straight up.
However, on previous cars I have owned, we've always run the servo arm off-set so that when the wheels are straight and the steering rack is central, the servo arm forms a 90 degree angle with the steering link rod (ie the one connecting the servo arm to the steering rack). On the previous cars I have owned, this was to even up the steering speed left-right.
Has anyone done this on the 416?
Many thanks
Oli
I tried mock-ups in AutoCAD and couldn't find a way to get it perfect. All you can do is get it close and be good. Though I suppose 90*-to-link is much closer than perfectly straight. Perhaps this is a good question for Mr. Groskamp...
#5766
Try going to X/D or even A/E on the rear toe-in, it's still 2°, but you'll loosen the car up as it becomes wider. Narrowing it down, whilst making that end quicker to react, also gives it more grip, and it'll push.
Ackerman, you should never need to run more than 6mm, and thats an extreme.
Also, I would personally go to MORE shims under the inner rear link, it reduces the camber change and really helps to free up the car. Try 4mm.
Use the shims under the blocks (use 0.5mm under the both the rears, always), and outer link position to alter the roll centre.
HiH
Ed
Ackerman, you should never need to run more than 6mm, and thats an extreme.
Also, I would personally go to MORE shims under the inner rear link, it reduces the camber change and really helps to free up the car. Try 4mm.
Use the shims under the blocks (use 0.5mm under the both the rears, always), and outer link position to alter the roll centre.
HiH
Ed
I did try the X/D but not A/E on the rear toe end....I do have the .05 shim under the rear block....I did have the 4mm under the inner rear link,I thought the car roll alittle too much cause the backend stuck too much...so I took is out to roll quicker
#5767
you mean the hole number 1 on the steering block?
I really don't want more steering ,just wanted free up the back of the car to rotated around the corner...Thanks
#5769
Try going wider in the back, either with wheel shims for a quick try or do the suspension blocks, keeping the same rear toe.
OR go narrower in the front width. I only say this as when I went from a B/C front to a D/D on carpet I ended up with a lot of push in the front, so either I freed the front too much or the back was too stuck, it was either one or the other, just have to find the happy setting.
OR go narrower in the front width. I only say this as when I went from a B/C front to a D/D on carpet I ended up with a lot of push in the front, so either I freed the front too much or the back was too stuck, it was either one or the other, just have to find the happy setting.
#5770
Use the holes closer to the hub. Im not sure what # it is.
That will get you the ackerman you want. Just set it.. check your endpoints at 100% Dual rate and dial it out to suit your driving style.
#5771
I'll give it a try next weekend ...Thanks
#5772
Anybody got a Oneway front diff for 416 fro sell ? please PM
#5774
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
You can always shorten the rear camber links to make the rear end really tail happy. Shortening on the hub feels a lot more drastic than shortening on the bulkhead. Can also try with less front droop (higher number on droop gauge)
#5775
Tech Lord
iTrader: (32)
Just run the new Top car. New car syndrome (pun intended) always feels better than old cars.
You can always shorten the rear camber links to make the rear end really tail happy. Shortening on the hub feels a lot more drastic than shortening on the bulkhead. Can also try with less front droop (higher number on droop gauge)
You can always shorten the rear camber links to make the rear end really tail happy. Shortening on the hub feels a lot more drastic than shortening on the bulkhead. Can also try with less front droop (higher number on droop gauge)
I'll give the suggestions a try, thanks Ling and everybody else.