Fabricio

Hello guys,

Where can I get a TRF416WE in the Birmingham area, I have a friend that lives there and I want him to buy it and send it to me here in Brazil.

sidecarphil1

iTrader: (1)

ok so i have had my 416we for about 3 months running stock

i had a 415 before this and hoped that tamiya had done something about the shit plastic swing shaft protectors ....................

but no ...............

replaced them before ETS last weekend , did 4 days racing and now they are screwed again ..........................

there is a small amount of wear on the diff outriders but nothing serious ..

how do you stop this or make it less ???

cheeRS phil

Szimon

Hi experts,

after several years, I've moved back to the tamiya chassis (416WE) and I found out that the original manual doesn't contain the list of the toe-in suspension mounts. What I want to do? I'd like to set a lower toe-in at the rear from initial to 2-2,5 degrees....

could anyone help me please?

thnx

sidecarphil1

iTrader: (1)

this is the World of info REF the TRF416 and World Edition

thard

and this is the link for the suspension bridge chart

suspension bridge chart

i used 1C 1C front ( will fit 1D 1D when they arive from Honk kong

and rear i use 1XA 1D this i think gives 2 and a half degrees toe on the rear makes it slightly twitchy on the faster corners , i got 1E coming also to try on the rear for 3 degrees toe

hope this helps

if you look there is also a topic "ask jilles " check it out it is full of help on handling tips

Szimon

thnx a lot!

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

Hey guys, just wanted to let you know that the Manutech Racing LiPo tray is now available. I have tested a couple different variations and have found the best one which is now being sold. There are only pictures of the tray itself on the website right now, but there will be pictures up shortly of the tray mounted in my car.

The tray adds approx 115 grams of weight to the battery side of the car, and brings the pack just to the side of the upper deck so that it will fit ANY 2 cell LiPo pack out there without interfering with the upper deck in any way. Now you don't have to load the car up with a ton of lead weight to balance it out..

The pieces that I've received (even the first prototype) have all looked awesome, truely top notch fit and finish.

Available at www.manutech.info part # 141-101

redbones

When I start a race, the car is planted and feels great. But in the latter half, the car becomes a little rear happy and the tires start to make these squealing noise. Are my tires over heating?

sidecarphil1

iTrader: (1)

yeah i think so

what tyres do you run ??

post your set up on here and we will all try to help

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

They do need to be replaced often, but I've never had that kind of wear, even when I ran mod. Try filing inside the outdrives to take the sharp edges off them

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

also trying greesing the out drives with some light greese. Will ease the contact point between outdrive and blade.
However, the blades are an accepted pearishable item... I'd prefer to be replacing them versus the outdrives all the time!

Regards
Ed

sidecarphil1

iTrader: (1)

yeah i agree but i would have thought that tamiya would have changed the design with the new car ...

Xrays dont do it .....

bugger i have ordered another 10 packs form HK though

i'll try the grease idea but our track is quite dusty and i think the sand/dust and grease may make it a bit like grinding paste ???

will try though

sidecarphil1

iTrader: (1)

i've been running an extra 1mm spacer under the rear suspension block on the front and 0.5mm under the front block

but my question is this .

A if i reduce them both be 0.5mm do i still get the same affect

B if i put 0.5 on the front and 0 extra on the rear what will this do ??

and does D D on the front help ??

i run C C at the moment and it seams to push the front end on a bit ...

if you want some more info on my set up please ask

my track is dusty and quite fast flowing low grip but aggressave on the tyres

cheeRS phil

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

Hi Phil,

A if i reduce them both be 0.5mm do i still get the same affect
-> this will preserve your current amount of anti dive and castor, but will also lower the front roll centre giving you more steering. This is quite a big change actually, so the difference should be quite noticeable

B if i put 0.5 on the front and 0 extra on the rear what will this do ??
-> do you mean make them both 1mm total? This will take away your anti dive (less initial steering, more weight transfer to front under brakes) and also raise the front roll centre (less steering)

and does D D on the front help ??
->D/D will take away some steering, it also makes the car easier to drive as it's less twitchy.

i run C C at the moment and it seams to push the front end on a bit ...
->this would be from the high front RC, the front tends to skate in corners when you have a too high front RC compared to the rear. Try going to 0 under the front-front block and 0.5 under the front-rear, with 5mm of spacers under the front camber link on the bulkhead. You should also have 0.5mm under both rear blocks, and rear camber links flat

Post your setup if you'd like some more help. I posted mine a few pages back, at your track I would use exactly the same geometry and shocks, but with C/C blocks at the front to help with steering in the high speed corners, and test both 1mm and 0.5mm spacers in the front wheels to see which is quicker

devious17

iTrader: (1)

Guys, can anyone advise me where can I source for the WE lower deck? I am having a hard time looking for one.

redbones

This is using sorex36R on track temp of about 100F.
The setup is Groskamp's base asphalt setup on a slightly dusty surface.
Thanks