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Old 05-22-2009, 12:24 AM   #5521
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Originally Posted by niznai View Post
While I agree not all common hardware is perfect, I can tell you out of 50 screws you can buy with the money you pay for one "Tamiya" screw you can easily pick a bunch to outlast the car.

I don't have a 416 to have any problems, and am not sure what the "uberdiff" is, but I have my own way to set up my diffs and I don't have any problems with them. But I can understand why some of the guys at the track have broken screws. I am not sure how much it is a function of being overtightened or just fatigue, but I have never broken a "standard" screw. And by the way, I have a car that has aluminium screws through the diffs and has never broken one (true, they are M2.5 and that's a big difference). My guess is that in mod class there is a lot of strain on their diffs and something has to give.

I just tried to help you. If you still think you can't do without "tamiya" screws then go ahead and buy as many as you can. Mine are not for sale though.

Here's one last hint for you. Hpi has a diff service kit that contains the same screw as the tamiya one. Actually when Tamiya put those screws out and the plastic nut instead of the captive nylocs I thought straight away they were copying HPI (the HPI item fits the RS4 series of cars). Not sure what it cost, or how much easier is to get in the US, but at least you have one more alternative.

Good luck.
To be honest, if your breaking diff screws on a tamiya, you are doing something wrong! I'm not sure if your making a generalisation about tc's in general regarding the screws breaking, but in over 5 years if running their cars (original 415 through to the 416) I have never once broken a diff screw.
Now the original cyclone had big issues in that department, the screw just wasn't strong enough.

As for the screw itself, I'm with John. Whilst I'm sure you could get a standard screw to work, for peace of mind (in terms of diff performance and adjustability) and the sake of 4, I'll take the offical item

Regards
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Old 05-22-2009, 12:31 AM   #5522
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Ok I hav ebeen trying to find it, but have been comming up empty handed. The hot spring that everybody has been trying outdoors on their 416 is the Hara silver spring correct? I have been trying to find what the spring rating is for them. I looked on THARD's site but am unsure if the springs there are the regular HPI springs or the HARA ones. Thanks for anybody that can help me out.
The hpi springs on the chart are the correct ones, ling wasn't able to test the hara's.
So the silvers are between the tamiya milky blue whites and blues. What isn't shown on the chart is that the hpi's are much more linear in there action, whilst thre tamiyas are more progressive. This kinda explains why the tams are preferred indoors, and the hpis outdoors.
HiH
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Old 05-22-2009, 12:40 AM   #5523
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I've used Hara springs with very good results. Better lap times over my Tamiya springs. HPI springs are nice as well. Have yet to try Silver/Blue combo. Only Gold/Silver.
You wanna try silver/silver first... It's what I've been running on the car for a while now, and it is F.A.S.T loads of front end although slightly nervous on brand new boots. On old boots though, it was fantastic.
We had our first national over the weekend, and it's the first time for a while in the uk that we've had top drivers running tamiya. (Some how I'm part of that team as well... So much for not racing much this summer ).
One thing that was pretty obvious, was that the 416 wasn't using it's tires anywhere near as hard as the other cars, and the laptime drop-off between old and new (which is reckoned to.be around 0.5s) was not that much for us lot
Car was also very good in the wet (even when on slicks, opps), just seems to be able to generate more traction than the other cars, without killing the tyres. Got a lot of mouths wagging in the pits that's for sure

I always knew the car was good, but having finally seen it first hand against the best in the country. Makes quite to spot where the advantage lies

Cheers
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Old 05-22-2009, 03:03 AM   #5524
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
To be honest, if your breaking diff screws on a tamiya, you are doing something wrong! I'm not sure if your making a generalisation about tc's in general regarding the screws breaking, but in over 5 years if running their cars (original 415 through to the 416) I have never once broken a diff screw.
Now the original cyclone had big issues in that department, the screw just wasn't strong enough.

As for the screw itself, I'm with John. Whilst I'm sure you could get a standard screw to work, for peace of mind (in terms of diff performance and adjustability) and the sake of 4, I'll take the offical item

Regards
Ed
If you read more carefully the posts above you might actually discover that John (who has 30 years of experience in R/C by his word) breaks the screws not me. And he can't possibly be doing something wrong!

My opinion is though that screws break because they do. I did not break one (as explained above) but I have seen many broken at our club, especially by the guys running powerful cars. These people often benefit from the vast assortment of screws I carry around to get going again. This is how I have come to learn about this weak point of the Tamiya cars, otherwise I don't really care, I don't run one. Based on this experience (which may very well differ to anyone/everyone else's) my opinion is that a 2mm screw is just on the edge of its tensile strength in a powerful car like those run in mod, etc. True, it didn't take me 30 years to come to this conclusion, so I might be wrong.

Sure, far from me to insist anyone does what I suggest, but the whole discussion was initiated by John saying how long he has to wait to get one of those screws and I offerred an alternative idea. Much ado about nothing.
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Old 05-22-2009, 03:40 AM   #5525
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
To be honest, if your breaking diff screws on a tamiya, you are doing something wrong! I'm not sure if your making a generalisation about tc's in general regarding the screws breaking, but in over 5 years if running their cars (original 415 through to the 416) I have never once broken a diff screw.
Now the original cyclone had big issues in that department, the screw just wasn't strong enough.

As for the screw itself, I'm with John. Whilst I'm sure you could get a standard screw to work, for peace of mind (in terms of diff performance and adjustability) and the sake of 4, I'll take the offical item

Regards
Ed
Totally agree.

I ran tamiyas for the best part of 9 years and never ever broke a diff screw, some of my diffs have been run for 2 years with the same screw. If you broke it well, it's your fault.
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Old 05-22-2009, 04:02 AM   #5526
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If you read more carefully the posts above you might actually discover that John (who has 30 years of experience in R/C by his word) breaks the screws not me. And he can't possibly be doing something wrong!
Does this mean anyone with 30 years of experience will do no wrong and be elated to become God?
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Old 05-22-2009, 05:29 AM   #5527
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Default Silver can in 416

Hi guys just a quick qiestion,

I have a 416WE normally running in mod or 19T and we having a fun enduro at our local track and I cant believe that this car is not designed to take a Stock Silver can ???? such an awesome chassis and now I have to dremel/machine the motor mount ? is there another motor mount that will take the silver can or must I just machine mine ?
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Old 05-22-2009, 09:17 AM   #5528
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Does this mean anyone with 30 years of experience will do no wrong and be elated to become God?
lol
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Old 05-22-2009, 09:46 AM   #5529
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Originally Posted by niznai View Post
If you read more carefully the posts above you might actually discover that John (who has 30 years of experience in R/C by his word) breaks the screws not me. And he can't possibly be doing something wrong!

My opinion is though that screws break because they do. I did not break one (as explained above) but I have seen many broken at our club, especially by the guys running powerful cars. These people often benefit from the vast assortment of screws I carry around to get going again. This is how I have come to learn about this weak point of the Tamiya cars, otherwise I don't really care, I don't run one. Based on this experience (which may very well differ to anyone/everyone else's) my opinion is that a 2mm screw is just on the edge of its tensile strength in a powerful car like those run in mod, etc. True, it didn't take me 30 years to come to this conclusion, so I might be wrong.

Sure, far from me to insist anyone does what I suggest, but the whole discussion was initiated by John saying how long he has to wait to get one of those screws and I offerred an alternative idea. Much ado about nothing.

Where did you read that ? I never said "I'm breaking diff screws". I'm in the process of making new diffs with the components that Try Hard suggests for the ultimate diff front AND rear. So I need the parts to make it and MAKE IT RIGHT! The technique makes the diff work so much better and the tension on the screw is far less with out compromising anything. I've done it to other cars and now all I need is a good screw!
I haven't broken a diff screw since the old Yokomo MR4.... piece of crap car...
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Old 05-22-2009, 10:44 AM   #5530
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XRAY NT-1 ( hand made ) or Serpent S400 but sold out
in last year TITC 09 Stock class TQ A1 is used NT-1 Gear diff .
How many teeth does the NT-1 diff have?
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Old 05-22-2009, 11:00 AM   #5531
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XRAY NT-1 ( hand made ) or Serpent S400 but sold out
in last year TITC 09 Stock class TQ A1 is used NT-1 Gear diff .
can you expand on what was done or what parts where used for this conversion ?!?!!
Also what oil are they using in it ?
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Old 05-22-2009, 12:17 PM   #5532
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Between 3-5000wt would be a good starting point. A gear diff is something I'd definitely like to try out, but I'm hoping it's a 37 tooth diff...
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Old 05-22-2009, 01:19 PM   #5533
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Between 3-5000wt would be a good starting point. A gear diff is something I'd definitely like to try out, but I'm hoping it's a 37 tooth diff...
Been trying to find Serpent gear diffs for a while now.
option is to look at alternatives.
I believe the NT1 is the smallest gear diff from the 200mm gas cars.
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Old 05-22-2009, 03:41 PM   #5534
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You wanna try silver/silver first... It's what I've been running on the car for a while now, and it is F.A.S.T loads of front end although slightly nervous on brand new boots. On old boots though, it was fantastic.
Silver/Blue works great as well Ed. Using the base asphalt setup, I tested silver/silver and silver/blue back-to-back and the latter was slightly quicker. Silver all around wasn't as planted at the rear (duh), but didn't provide better steering as pay off. This is in low to med grip btw. I haven't tried the worlds setup yet (which I think you're running), that might be better on silvers all around due to the higher front RC

... I've never had a prob with the diff screw either, I do know someone who broke one from over-tightening tho
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Old 05-22-2009, 06:13 PM   #5535
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Originally Posted by SlideMasteR View Post
Hi guys just a quick qiestion,

I have a 416WE normally running in mod or 19T and we having a fun enduro at our local track and I cant believe that this car is not designed to take a Stock Silver can ???? such an awesome chassis and now I have to dremel/machine the motor mount ? is there another motor mount that will take the silver can or must I just machine mine ?
As far as I know, there is no other motor plates for the 416, save the original one & the WE one(both of which I imagine have the same sized opening), but for an enduro, something else occurs to me, might serve your purpose better....If you're planning to run a silver can motor, why not use a 21.5 brushless instead? Speed is VERY similar(possibly even better than your average silver can motor when geared right), & efficiency should be as good or better, & it can handle LOTS of abuse, so I'd think it would be an IDEAL enduro motor......
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