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Old 04-12-2009, 12:08 PM   #5086
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Originally Posted by sidecarphil1 View Post
what is the differances between the TRF416 and the World Edition ??
The main changes are a revised chassis, upper deck, and motor mount. There are revisions throughout the car though, short arms, short rear dogbones, new belts, etc.
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Old 04-12-2009, 01:24 PM   #5087
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well, I can see why everyone likes the HPI's outside on the tarmac...
Had a very good test session today after racing, got through a load of changes I've been meaning to make, and the grip was good at the local track, so bolted on a set of one meeting old Sorex 32's and had a few runs.

First run, the car was pretty good, had it set like had before. Felt nice and settled, but was struggling to get through the middle of the corner as usual. So for the next run tried something I'd wanted to try for a while, by shortening the wheelbase down. Changed the spacer behind the front arm to 1.5mm, and spacers in front of the rear arm to 2.5mm, so overall shortend the car by 1mm from what I had been running, but keeping the weight in the same place. Suprisingly, didn't make as big a difference as I was expecting. The car did rotate better, but still felt stuck too much on the rear end.
Next run, something else I'd wanted to try for a while, was switching from Tamiya White/Blue springs to HPI Silvers all round... WOW! This was a huge change, as the car now felt fantastic. The front was diving in harder still, and the rear was now rotating much better, but not unstable. Pretty much exactly what I was looking for from the car. Was very suprised, as I really hadn't expected it to be such a difference, especially as I hadn't been too impressed last time I ran that combo indoors on carpet.

Final two runs I played around with the camber link shims (going up 1mm all round to 5mm F, 4mm R) but prefered them a bit lower, for more camber change. I also tried some Anti-dive, but I think the reduced castor wasn't really helping around the tight corners, as track does seem to reward mid-corner steering... something which the Silvers had massively helped with.

Have to say, the car still suprises me that it can be so easy to drive fast... haven't enjoyed driving it like that for some time

Cheers
Ed
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Old 04-12-2009, 07:27 PM   #5088
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
well, I can see why everyone likes the HPI's outside on the tarmac...
Had a very good test session today after racing, got through a load of changes I've been meaning to make, and the grip was good at the local track, so bolted on a set of one meeting old Sorex 32's and had a few runs.

First run, the car was pretty good, had it set like had before. Felt nice and settled, but was struggling to get through the middle of the corner as usual. So for the next run tried something I'd wanted to try for a while, by shortening the wheelbase down. Changed the spacer behind the front arm to 1.5mm, and spacers in front of the rear arm to 2.5mm, so overall shortend the car by 1mm from what I had been running, but keeping the weight in the same place. Suprisingly, didn't make as big a difference as I was expecting. The car did rotate better, but still felt stuck too much on the rear end.
Next run, something else I'd wanted to try for a while, was switching from Tamiya White/Blue springs to HPI Silvers all round... WOW! This was a huge change, as the car now felt fantastic. The front was diving in harder still, and the rear was now rotating much better, but not unstable. Pretty much exactly what I was looking for from the car. Was very suprised, as I really hadn't expected it to be such a difference, especially as I hadn't been too impressed last time I ran that combo indoors on carpet.

Final two runs I played around with the camber link shims (going up 1mm all round to 5mm F, 4mm R) but prefered them a bit lower, for more camber change. I also tried some Anti-dive, but I think the reduced castor wasn't really helping around the tight corners, as track does seem to reward mid-corner steering... something which the Silvers had massively helped with.

Have to say, the car still suprises me that it can be so easy to drive fast... haven't enjoyed driving it like that for some time

Cheers
Ed
Ive found that if you are willing to sacrifice a new set of 24's that you will be hooked up big time ... that is if you can keep from overheating the tires.
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Old 04-12-2009, 10:01 PM   #5089
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I'm running the same setup as Groskamp's base asphalt. I have this issue with too much on power steering. The rear wants to kick out at the corner exit and I have to correct the direction. Does your guys cars exhibit this? What can I do to correct it?
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Old 04-12-2009, 10:29 PM   #5090
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
well, I can see why everyone likes the HPI's outside on the tarmac...
Had a very good test session today after racing, got through a load of changes I've been meaning to make, and the grip was good at the local track, so bolted on a set of one meeting old Sorex 32's and had a few runs.

First run, the car was pretty good, had it set like had before. Felt nice and settled, but was struggling to get through the middle of the corner as usual. So for the next run tried something I'd wanted to try for a while, by shortening the wheelbase down. Changed the spacer behind the front arm to 1.5mm, and spacers in front of the rear arm to 2.5mm, so overall shortend the car by 1mm from what I had been running, but keeping the weight in the same place. Suprisingly, didn't make as big a difference as I was expecting. The car did rotate better, but still felt stuck too much on the rear end.
Next run, something else I'd wanted to try for a while, was switching from Tamiya White/Blue springs to HPI Silvers all round... WOW! This was a huge change, as the car now felt fantastic. The front was diving in harder still, and the rear was now rotating much better, but not unstable. Pretty much exactly what I was looking for from the car. Was very suprised, as I really hadn't expected it to be such a difference, especially as I hadn't been too impressed last time I ran that combo indoors on carpet.

Final two runs I played around with the camber link shims (going up 1mm all round to 5mm F, 4mm R) but prefered them a bit lower, for more camber change. I also tried some Anti-dive, but I think the reduced castor wasn't really helping around the tight corners, as track does seem to reward mid-corner steering... something which the Silvers had massively helped with.

Have to say, the car still suprises me that it can be so easy to drive fast... haven't enjoyed driving it like that for some time

Cheers
Ed
Ed, can you give me the part no for the HPI silver springs.

Thanks.
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Old 04-12-2009, 11:01 PM   #5091
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Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
The first time I tried anti-dive I didn't like it because it took away on-power steering. I figure this was because it works both ways so as well as being anti dive it is also pro-lift. I tried it again over the weekend but with minimal front droop and that sorted it right out, and it really made the car an weapon under brakes - I always found the 416 a bit floaty in big braking zones with a tendency to back its way into corners but now I can jump on the picks and it's stable as with heaps of turn-in
Hey Craig,

Your Weapon Setup sounds very interesting.
Which droop settings did you start with and what droop settings (and any other changes) wound up helping out the braking on your 416?

Thank you, Chris
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Old 04-13-2009, 01:32 AM   #5092
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Originally Posted by redbones View Post
I'm running the same setup as Groskamp's base asphalt. I have this issue with too much on power steering. The rear wants to kick out at the corner exit and I have to correct the direction. Does your guys cars exhibit this? What can I do to correct it?
Try a bit more front droop. When I measured 6mm at the arms I had no droop whatsoever, so I went to 5mm all around
Quote:
Originally Posted by CHRIS CHAVEZ View Post
Hey Craig,

Your Weapon Setup sounds very interesting.
Which droop settings did you start with and what droop settings (and any other changes) wound up helping out the braking on your 416?

Thank you, Chris
I'm running 5mm all around. The .5mm of anti dive on the front and the HPI silver springs front HPI blue rear seem to give the best balance, and I found when the grip was a bit lower that 3 deg of rear toe worked better than 2.5
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Old 04-13-2009, 01:36 AM   #5093
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Originally Posted by John St.Amant View Post
Ive found that if you are willing to sacrifice a new set of 24's that you will be hooked up big time ... that is if you can keep from overheating the tires.
There's no point in me testing on 24's as the nationals this year are on the 32's again... apart from that the 24's would be destroyed on our track, the 28's struggle to last more than 2meetings before canvas is showing!
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Old 04-13-2009, 01:39 AM   #5094
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Originally Posted by redbones View Post
I'm running the same setup as Groskamp's base asphalt. I have this issue with too much on power steering. The rear wants to kick out at the corner exit and I have to correct the direction. Does your guys cars exhibit this? What can I do to correct it?
As Craig said, some more front droop will help. You could also try some more rear toe-in (1XA/1E) or some more rear camber.

HiH
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Old 04-13-2009, 01:45 AM   #5095
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Ed, can you give me the part no for the HPI silver springs.

Thanks.
HP6543... however good luck finding any, nowhere seems to have them in stock atm
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Old 04-13-2009, 02:00 AM   #5096
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Setup from yesterday... worked very well
Attached Thumbnails
Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X-shmcc-apr09.jpg  
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Old 04-13-2009, 02:03 AM   #5097
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Try a bit more front droop. When I measured 6mm at the arms I had no droop whatsoever, so I went to 5mm all around
The front droop measurement... do you base it off the actual arms or the little dimple where the set screw goes in on the C-hub? Because there is about 1mm of difference between the two.
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Old 04-13-2009, 02:19 AM   #5098
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Setup from yesterday... worked very well
Hey Ed,

I just wanted to say that as a long time Orion 3600 user, I found that they pale in comparison to the new SMC and ThunderPower 40c packs. The SMC and TP packs pack a considerable more amount of punch in the opening minutes, and they "fade" much less throughout the duration of a heat thx to the increased capacity.

Simply put, I didn't know what I was missing until I gave them a try!
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Old 04-13-2009, 02:41 AM   #5099
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Haha, don't I know it....

I'm actually looking into getting some more cells now anyway, and just ordered an IP5000 30C pack to start with... I'm deffiently sure I'll notice a BIG improvement

Cheers
Ed
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Old 04-13-2009, 08:29 AM   #5100
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HP6543... however good luck finding any, nowhere seems to have them in stock atm
Thanks Ed.
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