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Old 02-18-2009, 09:25 AM   #4456
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54121 is Tamiya's version of the blue servo saver arm. It's fairly new.

For those of you bending the aluminum ball studs, why not use 53969 and 53968? They're black instead of pretty blue, but a lot stronger.

I sure wish this servo saver was a little better. It's got a pin that goes through the pieces to make it solid, but the pin is thin, so it will break on impact and allow the spring action of the saver to kick in. The pin broke VERY easily, though, and ended up being more of a hassle than it was worth.

Would a stronger spring in a Kimbrough help? I've noticed it feels a lot less precise than the harder savers (like the Tamiya), but definitely keeps its center better.
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Old 02-18-2009, 09:36 AM   #4457
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I just received my Square alum servo saver TGE 22TB that I ordered from RCmarket. I hope this will work well. Somebody mention Kimbrough and robinson having a better servo saver for tamiya, can you post the pics or link for that? I might try those if the Square one having the slacking issue too.
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Old 02-18-2009, 10:09 AM   #4458
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i used to use the kimbrough servo saver... but recently started to use the tamiya one with the one piece alum. part. works just as good as the kimbrough but has the PRETTY BLUE in it.
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Old 02-18-2009, 10:11 AM   #4459
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Does anyone know the length of the Tamiya high torque servo saver? Some of the companies that sell servo savers categorize them by length. Would the length be from the center of the servo hole to the center of the hole that attaches to the screw? Thanks!
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Old 02-18-2009, 12:16 PM   #4460
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Originally Posted by Mutabarucka View Post
Ok I have a few Q for the guys that race the 416, a friend just bought a 416 and drove it for one weekend and broke four chub by just taping the boards and now he have a hard time getting parts in the USA and he want to sell it to me but my Q is where do you get the part for this car and what parts should I keep on hand? is there another chub I could use instead of the one that come with the kit? are the arms the same as the chubs easy to break?
any help will be appreciated.
If your using the standard 416 hubs, the carbon reinforced ones, then try swtiching too the softer TA05-IFS ones (TAM51293). I had a similar issue when I first got the car, and since switching to the softer versions, have only broken one...

As others have mentioned, best bet for parts would be to get hold of the TA05 short arm conversion kit, as it contains a spare of everything you need, apart from dogbones (TAM54083).

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Old 02-18-2009, 01:09 PM   #4461
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Wow, heaps of great info thanks guys. I too have noticed the play still there in the tamiya saver with the alloy insert so I think I'll give the kimbrough a go, and swap to the steel ackerman screws.
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Old 02-18-2009, 02:43 PM   #4462
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Wow, heaps of great info thanks guys. I too have noticed the play still there in the tamiya saver with the alloy insert so I think I'll give the kimbrough a go, and swap to the steel ackerman screws.
That's a good combo Craig. That's what I'm running and it's been working well.
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Old 02-18-2009, 02:48 PM   #4463
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mutabarucka View Post
Ok I have a few Q for the guys that race the 416, a friend just bought a 416 and drove it for one weekend and broke four chub by just taping the boards and now he have a hard time getting parts in the USA and he want to sell it to me but my Q is where do you get the part for this car and what parts should I keep on hand? is there another chub I could use instead of the one that come with the kit? are the arms the same as the chubs easy to break?
any help will be appreciated.
I've never broken an arm, but I know people that have. The chubs and knuckles are most susceptible to breaking, also get some rear uprights as these tend to strip, spare front-rear suspension blocks (i.e. the one in front of the steering links) as they always bend, belt pulleys, 5mm and 8mm hex headed ball screws, steel front uni's (if he doesnt have the WE), spool outdrives (if he's using the spool). The only other thing I've needed in 6 months of running was a rear belt

If you cant source the stuff from the US, the HK (rc-market/mart/mushroom/model) stores always have stock, they deal in your currency (bastards), and shipping is cheap
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Old 02-18-2009, 02:53 PM   #4464
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That's a good combo Craig. That's what I'm running and it's been working well.
Cool beans Vinny, hopefully it'll make me as quick as you then
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Old 02-18-2009, 02:57 PM   #4465
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Cool beans Vinny, hopefully it'll make me as quick as you then
Why would you want to go slower...

I might try and have a race this Sunday. Hopefully we get some decent weather. I'm itching to have a run!
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Old 02-18-2009, 03:38 PM   #4466
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Do any of you guys know (for a fact) which Sanwa/Airtronics servo that Marc Rhienard is using in his 416WE car?

Thanks, Chris
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Old 02-18-2009, 09:34 PM   #4467
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Why would you want to go slower...

I might try and have a race this Sunday. Hopefully we get some decent weather. I'm itching to have a run!
Yeah I am too! Last time out those TOP's had a few tenths on me so I need to find some more speed! Will try the RC's I ran at Windsor and see how they go in the lower grip because I had a crazy amount of steering there
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Old 02-19-2009, 01:07 PM   #4468
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[QUOTE=CHRIS CHAVEZ;5450405]Do any of you guys know (for a fact) which Sanwa/Airtronics servo that Marc Rhienard is using in his 416WE car?

Sanwa erg wg and some times rz
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Old 02-19-2009, 01:18 PM   #4469
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[QUOTE=nilsmedson;5454380]
Quote:
Originally Posted by CHRIS CHAVEZ View Post
Do any of you guys know (for a fact) which Sanwa/Airtronics servo that Marc Rhienard is using in his 416WE car?

Sanwa erg wg and some times rz
That must be a european thing .. I've never heard of any of those .
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Old 02-19-2009, 01:35 PM   #4470
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That must be a european thing .. I've never heard of any of those .
There are Airtronics equivalents of those servos since Airtronics are rebadged Sanwas.
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