Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
#3782
Tech Addict
#3784
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
didn't manange to get the roll centre calculator fully sorted yet... need to take some measurements off my car first.
However, I do have a fully working example, with some guestimated values , updated the look a little bit, and added in an important setup change, which is the chassis thickness (after all, most of us set our ride-heights to the underside of the plate... extra thickness in the chassis will raise the rc).
I've attached the example below, along with the updated 415 version as well (it was a slow day at work...). That one does have all the correct measurements in it
I'll update the 416 as soon as I get a chance, but hopefully you can all see what I'm trying to acheive.
Cheers
Ed
However, I do have a fully working example, with some guestimated values , updated the look a little bit, and added in an important setup change, which is the chassis thickness (after all, most of us set our ride-heights to the underside of the plate... extra thickness in the chassis will raise the rc).
I've attached the example below, along with the updated 415 version as well (it was a slow day at work...). That one does have all the correct measurements in it
I'll update the 416 as soon as I get a chance, but hopefully you can all see what I'm trying to acheive.
Cheers
Ed
Last edited by TryHard; 12-22-2008 at 01:54 PM.
#3785
ed those zip files come up corrupt for me after i download them.
#3787
#3789
i guess it's this crappy work computer. Carry on then nothing to see here.
#3790
TTT. Happy Holidays to my fellow 416ers.
Just to update everyone that I've been doing alot of testing on my local track, mainly testing on shock rebounds and have come to the conclusion that putting a 1mm hole on the shock cap and using different size spacers to change rebound is alot more accurate, alot easier to change setup when needed, less messy and economical as you don't have to top up oil everytime. Thanks to the person (Corey "Whitey" Whiteman) that suggested this method.
Ive done close to 30 packs this week alone (6 mins each) running a 4 turn motor and I can't believe how strong the drivetrain.
Next test will be how the 2.5mm chassis compares to stock 2.25mm
Just to update everyone that I've been doing alot of testing on my local track, mainly testing on shock rebounds and have come to the conclusion that putting a 1mm hole on the shock cap and using different size spacers to change rebound is alot more accurate, alot easier to change setup when needed, less messy and economical as you don't have to top up oil everytime. Thanks to the person (Corey "Whitey" Whiteman) that suggested this method.
Ive done close to 30 packs this week alone (6 mins each) running a 4 turn motor and I can't believe how strong the drivetrain.
Next test will be how the 2.5mm chassis compares to stock 2.25mm
#3791
Do you race on carpet? I was wondering if the vent hole works on asphalt as well.
#3792
I race asphalt. The mod should work as it makes adjusting rebound easier and more accurate than other methods. You can start running full rebound by using a thicker spacer and fine tuning by running thinner spacers if you want more grip by just taking the shock cap without disturbing the seal which makes it less messy and cheaper as you don't use oil everytime.
I suggest you buy 2 packs of the Vparts as you get the 2 plastic shock caps on each packet and you can experiment.
I suggest you buy 2 packs of the Vparts as you get the 2 plastic shock caps on each packet and you can experiment.
Last edited by danjoy25; 12-24-2008 at 02:56 PM.
#3793
In all honesty (and this has been pointed out before) your not gonna see a huge difference between a WE car, and one that has been given all the "regular race" parts (short arms, gut top deck etc).
Simply put the WE is supplied to mimic the current setups most of us run, whereas the original 416 was supplied with parts most people don't sue any more (Long arms, one way etc).
Is it worth it... if you have a fully hopped up 416, probably not. If you don't have one, then it's certainly a more sensible buy than an original 416.
HiH
Ed
Simply put the WE is supplied to mimic the current setups most of us run, whereas the original 416 was supplied with parts most people don't sue any more (Long arms, one way etc).
Is it worth it... if you have a fully hopped up 416, probably not. If you don't have one, then it's certainly a more sensible buy than an original 416.
HiH
Ed
#3794
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
not as of yet... but it's something I should do
I'll give a crack some time in the new year, plenty of stuff to be getting on with for the site now
But as a quick one... if you have a 416 already with a spool, short arms etc, then all thats really different on the WE are the top deck, chassis plate, belts and motor mount. Thats it.
As mentioned before, IMO, none of thoose are the be all and end all... the top deck and possibly the chassis plate would be the two biggest performance enhancers (cells are further forward on the WE, so should help with steering).
HiH
Ed
I'll give a crack some time in the new year, plenty of stuff to be getting on with for the site now
But as a quick one... if you have a 416 already with a spool, short arms etc, then all thats really different on the WE are the top deck, chassis plate, belts and motor mount. Thats it.
As mentioned before, IMO, none of thoose are the be all and end all... the top deck and possibly the chassis plate would be the two biggest performance enhancers (cells are further forward on the WE, so should help with steering).
HiH
Ed
#3795
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Anyway, I've just updated the suspension block chart, added in an extra table with partnumbers for all the relevant blocks.
http://www.thard.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=30
HiH
Ed