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Old 12-15-2008, 05:29 PM   #3691
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who makes that setup tool?
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Old 12-15-2008, 05:31 PM   #3692
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Just a question regarding the use of HPI springs on TRF dampers. Do I need to use HPI shock retainers or will the stock Tamiya retainers work?
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Old 12-15-2008, 07:57 PM   #3693
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I use Hara springs and HPI springs with no problems on the kit retainers.
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Old 12-15-2008, 08:46 PM   #3694
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B18C Turbo View Post
who makes that setup tool?
Not sure who makes that one, looks like it might possibly be the MuchMore tool. I would recommend the Hudy tools if you are going to measure droop on those gauges. They have the 10mm blocks, and a fine adjustment gauge that goes in .2mm increments rather than 1mm increments.
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Old 12-15-2008, 11:06 PM   #3695
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Here is a pic, but can only find it in Purple. It comes with 2 x 10mm blocks, droop gauge and ride height and cost around Aus$20. My local indoor hobby/track sells them, but Im located in Sydney.

http://teamtwisterhobbies.com/popup_...5efc5213717361
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Old 12-15-2008, 11:55 PM   #3696
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRFwhitey View Post
Stein, unfortunately it was 13.5... This is fastest rubber tire class they run on carpet at any race here in north america other than the IIC. I only ever practice with mod, I rarely have the chance to race it. This setup is very close to my mod setup anyways, main difference was my dual-rate was about 10% less lol. As for the shocks you are correct, I ran no pieces between the cap and bladder. I highly recommend this setup for almost any grip level!
OK, thanks.

Over here (Switzerland, Germany) there is rubber tire on carpet racing with all 3 classes (13.5T, 9.5T and Mod). At our local indoor track (rather small and twisty), see picture, Mod (4.5T) is about 1 sec faster than 13.5T

Have you tried a one-way? This is the norm here for 13.5T on a track like this (while Mod runs Spool)...

....
Attached Thumbnails
Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X-niklaus_gp_08_45_20081126_1980489344.jpg  
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Old 12-16-2008, 01:35 AM   #3697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stein Tumert View Post
OK, thanks.

Over here (Switzerland, Germany) there is rubber tire on carpet racing with all 3 classes (13.5T, 9.5T and Mod). At our local indoor track (rather small and twisty), see picture, Mod (4.5T) is about 1 sec faster than 13.5T

Have you tried a one-way? This is the norm here for 13.5T on a track like this (while Mod runs Spool)...

....
this track use spool bester than one-way
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Old 12-16-2008, 03:19 AM   #3698
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stein Tumert View Post
..
Have you tried a one-way? This is the norm here for 13.5T on a track like this (while Mod runs Spool)...
....
I run mostly 17.5 and maybe also 13.5-class with my 416 and I also prefer running a one-way.

What setup do you guys use when running the one-way?
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Old 12-16-2008, 07:57 AM   #3699
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I know after IIC, Martin and Brian said they were faster with the spool in 13.5. I think a large majority of people in 13.5 run a one-way, but I've noticed more and more going with the spool lately. I'm pretty sure Martin won the rubber tire nats that way, and Corey took care of some fast guys this weekend at Fastcats using the same configuration.

I'm going to keep testing with the spool+center one-way to see if that's a reasonable compromise.
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Old 12-16-2008, 08:50 AM   #3700
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam? View Post
I know after IIC, Martin and Brian said they were faster with the spool in 13.5. I think a large majority of people in 13.5 run a one-way, but I've noticed more and more going with the spool lately. I'm pretty sure Martin won the rubber tire nats that way, and Corey took care of some fast guys this weekend at Fastcats using the same configuration.

I'm going to keep testing with the spool+center one-way to see if that's a reasonable compromise.

Have you ever tried running a diff? Consistency is the name of the game!
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Old 12-16-2008, 10:13 AM   #3701
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TRF416WE Parts weekend arrive !

http://rcmarket.com.hk/
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Old 12-16-2008, 10:43 AM   #3702
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Wouldn't it be just as easy to lay the chassis flat on the setup board and measure the droop with a ride-height gauge? Seems like a waste of money to buy all those blocks & tools unless your arms are going to hang lower than the chassis pan...

Also, where exactly would you measure droop if your running anti-dive or anti-squat? This would tilt the control arms...
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Old 12-16-2008, 01:47 PM   #3703
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Hello,

Square has released the screw sets for the TRF416WE.

STM-57 Titanium Set containing:
18x 3x6mm Countersunk-Screw
27x 3x8mm Countersunk-Screw
6x 3x10mm Countersunk-Screw
23x 3x6mm Buttonhead-Screw
14x 3x8mm Buttonhead-Screw
7x 3x10mm Buttonhead-Screw
1x 3x12mm Buttonhead-Screw

STM-77 Blue Aluminum / Titanium screw set:
Titan:
15x 3x6mm Countersunk Screw
15x 3x8mm Countersunk Screw
6x 3x10mm Countersunk Screw
2x 3x6mm Buttonhead Screw
Aluminium:
4x 3x6mm Countersunk Screw
10x 3x8mm Countersunk Screw
1x 3x10mm Countersunk Screw
18x 3x6mm Buttonhead Screw
14x 3x8mm Buttonhead Screw
7x 3x10mm Buttonhead Screw
1x 3x12mm Buttonhead Screw

The Ti Set will offer approx 25g of weight saving while the Ti/Al Set will offer even approx 32g of weight saving.

At the moment I am working on a 9.5T/5cell Setup for the upcomming DHI Cup Odense and ETS in Warsaw. Especially the combinations of droop and rollcenter are interesting. Also the new upperdeck offers much more grip (when leaving the "grippy" lane for a short time). I hope Tamiya will show some improved CVDs (like Xray did).
Also the new "manner" to build up the nearly awesome TRF Dampers (maybe you noticed - first the guide, then the o-ring) offers a more direct responsibility of the dampers (the piston rod will always go straight in a 90 angle).
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Old 12-16-2008, 02:07 PM   #3704
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94eg! View Post
Wouldn't it be just as easy to lay the chassis flat on the setup board and measure the droop with a ride-height gauge? Seems like a waste of money to buy all those blocks & tools unless your arms are going to hang lower than the chassis pan...

Also, where exactly would you measure droop if your running anti-dive or anti-squat? This would tilt the control arms...
The reason for the chassis blocks is most of the time you will have a screw head hanging below the chassis, or battery tape that would make it so the chassis won't sit flat on the board.

I would measure from the center of the hubs to get a consistant number incase you run any kind of angle on your arms.
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Old 12-16-2008, 03:32 PM   #3705
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Caster View Post
I would measure from the center of the hubs to get a consistant number incase you run any kind of angle on your arms.
But wouldn't that then be effected by camber changes?
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