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Old 07-27-2008, 06:46 PM   #2611
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Sorry if this is not the right place. But does anyone know a place in the US that carries the Square servo horn (TGE-22TB?) that fits the Tamiya servo saver? Thanks.
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Old 07-28-2008, 01:20 AM   #2612
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Got my 416 last week..built now..i have my lrp sphere tc spec on the way along with my orion lipo 3800....i hope ive made the right choice in these 2 products, however i really dont know what would be the best 10.5 brushless to go with the sphere tc, i was thinking the lrp vector 10.5 as the esc is lrp..what do you guys rekon as im totally new to brushless at the mo..help
Well, the LRP Sphere TC (and Nosram equiv) is by far and away the most popular speedo over here in the UK, so you certainly haven't gone wrong there As for 10.5's, either the Novak or LRP/Nosram are a good bet, and given that both are on the BRCA list, thats what I would go for

I can tell you now, you'll love brushless and LiPo... it makes for a very enjoyable weekend, with no skimming or phaffing with cells

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Old 07-28-2008, 02:20 AM   #2613
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Hi,

back from the LRP/HPI German Masters.

The car went awesome! After the training heats I got to the top 10. But after the qualifying heats i hardly got it to the B-Main. I have only finished one of the 2 finals. At the end I guess, the hall-sensors of my 9.5T BL motor were not working well.

Anyway... the car went really well (best lap time 18.5). Only 5 driver managed it to make a 18.5.

The setup was quite similar as on the ETS Race in Andernach.
http://sakaguchinet.dyndns.org/sites..._sakaguchi.jpg
Damper Position at the rear was #4. Wheel spacers -> none (with installed 4mm hubs). Rebound stoke on the front was 1mm, rear 2.5mm (don't mix it with droop!!!). Too much rebound stoke on the front made the car very unstable in fast turns and chicanes, but in the infield there will be a small tendency to understeer (on-power).
The car was very easy to drive. The 416-steering geometry is still the best one of all (when comparing the driving-haptics). I think at the moment its the best car you can buy for money.
Only some small topics are to improve at the future. I will tell them to Tamiya and we will see what will happen.
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Old 07-28-2008, 12:50 PM   #2614
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running 17.5 BL on asphalt, and one of the drivers told me to try use a spool to get the car turning better. My understanding of a spool is that it gives understeering characteristics. Would it work for a low speed technical track?
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Old 07-28-2008, 02:37 PM   #2615
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running 17.5 BL on asphalt, and one of the drivers told me to try use a spool to get the car turning better. My understanding of a spool is that it gives understeering characteristics. Would it work for a low speed technical track?
brakes you can use brakes going into a turn.
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Old 07-28-2008, 04:08 PM   #2616
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thanks for the replies guys, i will either get the novak or the lrp vector then..
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Old 07-28-2008, 05:30 PM   #2617
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Hey guys.

Im thinking of getting a 416 when/if rcmart get them back in stock.

Just wanting to know if you guys recommend any parts that i should get with the car? Is there any common parts that wear out quickly? If it helps i race on asphalt.


Cheers

Tom.
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Old 07-28-2008, 06:59 PM   #2618
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Hey boys,

Don't want to, but I gotta sell my 416 before the school year starts again. If anyone's interested, shoot me an e-mail/PM.

Great car, totally dialed, tons of spares (many of it NIP).... asking $375
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Old 07-28-2008, 07:49 PM   #2619
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redbones View Post
running 17.5 BL on asphalt, and one of the drivers told me to try use a spool to get the car turning better. My understanding of a spool is that it gives understeering characteristics. Would it work for a low speed technical track?
Most stock guys I know use a one way over a spool because you don't need as much brakes. You are correct when you say that a spool will understeer compared to a one way, and this is usually compensated for with an increase in ackerman (5mm seems to be what everyone uses with spool). In the faster classes like nitro/mod/superstock people recommend a spool because a one way is said to only have one line around a race track, so while it's quicker over a single lap the spool will be quicker over a race where there is traffic to dodge and you make the odd mistake

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Hey guys.

Im thinking of getting a 416 when/if rcmart get them back in stock.

Just wanting to know if you guys recommend any parts that i should get with the car? Is there any common parts that wear out quickly? If it helps i race on asphalt.


Cheers

Tom.
The only things on my car I've replaced were a few c-hubs and a steering knuckle. I've since switched to the softer IFS c-hubs and square alloy knuckles and haven't broken anything in a few meets. Everything else seems to be wearing fine, I'm still on the original belts that came with the car despite running it in mod for a couple of events

p.s. speedtech rc had stock last week at a good price and ship internationally
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Old 07-29-2008, 12:48 AM   #2620
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mild seven View Post
Hey guys.

Im thinking of getting a 416 when/if rcmart get them back in stock.

Just wanting to know if you guys recommend any parts that i should get with the car? Is there any common parts that wear out quickly? If it helps i race on asphalt.


Cheers

Tom.
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Old 07-30-2008, 04:58 AM   #2621
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hi,i would like to know if the alum.sus.mount for the trf 415 are the same for the trf 416??thank you
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Old 07-30-2008, 10:06 AM   #2622
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hi,i would like to know if the alum.sus.mount for the trf 415 are the same for the trf 416??thank you
Yes - unless you have to flip them over... then the 415 mounts require the use of more shims.
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Old 07-31-2008, 05:52 AM   #2623
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trying again... bloody database error.

So, had my third run out with modified this weekend... absolutely loving the power, but realising now that my cells (which I did get 2nd hand) are a little knackered. Still, fun is the name of the game for me at the moment (no championships to gun for given it's the summer months).

Anyway, didn't help myself out by waking up two hours late on sunday morning.... arrived just in time to get some cells on for Q1. Had left the car as per the setup used at the end of the WL national, except for changing to blue/yellow springs in anticpation of lower grip levels at Eastbourne (fairly new track, so nice and smooth, but it's dusty off line).

First round, car didn't felt it was carrying corner speed well enough, so changed back to the White/blue combo for round 2. Much better, but it did feel more like the car was struggling to rotate out of the corners. Run three, moved the rear shocks back out one (to hole 4), and also lowered the front hubs by flipping the lower collar. Certainly better, with more turn-in, and better exit, but still felt like the car wasn't rotating mid-corner quick enough.

First final, added an extra 0.5mm under the outer rear link (to 3.5mm), again better, with the rear feeling slightly looser, but still not enough rotation mid-corner. Certainly this was highlighted by running close with other cars, losing out loads in a couple of corners. For the last final, moved the rear wheelbase forward 0.5mm (to 2mm in front of the arms). Quite simply, an amazing change. The car now was rotating much better through the turns, so much so that I improved by over a lap on my previous runs (ok, the track had cooled a bit, but the tyres were still 7runs old by that point!). now I had the rotation, was starting to struggle a little more with inital turn-in, mainly as the tyres were shot. Still, very impressed with how much difference the wheelbase change made to the car.

Looking back now, what I probably should have done from the start was drop to blue springs on the front, lowered hubs (for more initial), and shorten the rear wheelbase (for the rotation), keeping everything else as is.

Overall, very happy with how the cars going, tried a firends TC5 after racing, and it just felt very skitish around the track... whereas the 416 felt locked to the road.

Regards
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Old 07-31-2008, 06:23 AM   #2624
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Hi Ed,

How do you lower the hubs on the Tamiya?
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Old 07-31-2008, 06:36 AM   #2625
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ahh, Mr Smith I assume?

Easy, there's two collars holding the front hub in place. In the standard instructions, you place the collars in first, with the flanges against the steering knuckle. To lower the hub, flip the lower one (so the flange is now facing the ground), and bingo, the knuckle is 0.5mm lower. As I'm using the 3racing alloy c-hubs, I've now got a single 1.5mm shim above the knuckle to take up the difference.

What you doing in here anyway? wrong colour isn't it?

Ed
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