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Old 07-08-2008, 06:31 AM   #2491
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Originally Posted by Rogier View Post
No delrin at rcmarket, rcmodel, precisionrc.... any other places where they are willing to ship to Europe??
Doesnt look like you have looked - or even tried to find them
http://rcmarket.com.hk/product_info.php?products_id=912

how can one help the helpless
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Old 07-08-2008, 08:34 AM   #2492
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Its surprising to see that the 416 has already been discontinued, (see the tamiya usa site) maybe there will be a new version out soon.
The just say that when they are out-of-stock. I've seen it several times. Sometimes they say "Temporarily out of Stock" and other times they say "Discontinued"...
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Old 07-08-2008, 02:08 PM   #2493
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Originally Posted by habis View Post
Doesnt look like you have looked - or even tried to find them
http://rcmarket.com.hk/product_info.php?products_id=912

how can one help the helpless
This part we had keep stock !
don't like other co. received order to order distributor !
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Old 07-08-2008, 02:55 PM   #2494
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Hi,

simply buy enough 49493 and calculate: Price of the whole coupling divided through 2 and you will have the price for a pair of black outdrives + some parts for the trash (at the moment this is my only way to get them).
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Old 07-09-2008, 01:35 AM   #2495
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Originally Posted by habis View Post
Doesnt look like you have looked - or even tried to find them
http://rcmarket.com.hk/product_info.php?products_id=912

how can one help the helpless
Well I searched on deLRin on RCMarket.... Not on deRLin like it is called on rcmarket... That's why I didn't fimd them!! Thanx anyway! Now the new susp blocks must be on stock and the order can be made.. .
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Old 07-09-2008, 03:38 PM   #2496
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Questions?? MR Spool outdrive part number

Hi there,

I am looking for the part number of the white delrin spool outdrives of the 415 MR edition, since it looks that they fit on the 416 spool and are less prone to kink than the black original ones.

thanks in advance

Cy
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Old 07-09-2008, 03:49 PM   #2497
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Default new 416

hi guys

im looking to buy a trf 416, however it looks like many places are running low on stock and dont seem to be replacing them. i see on tamiya america that they say discontinued, i have read on this thread somewhere that could just mean outta stock...my question is? does anyone know for sure if a newer version is on the way ? i dont want to buy one of the last remaining few to find that a new one is released in a month or so..made that mistake with the 415 msx....
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Old 07-09-2008, 03:53 PM   #2498
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Questions?? On Power 360

Hi there,

last weekend I race the first time with my 416 on the long arms (original) version and with the "out-of-the-box" setup
Only the Ackermann to be 3mm, 50wt oil up front with 3 holes
45wt oil at the rear with the 3 holes.
MMore tires and LRP asphalt additive
on a big track with low/medium asphalt track.

The problem I had was that the tires were doing well but when I jump on the throtlle it made the rear come to the front lol on a classic 360 - like if it was driving on ice....
I was using a 3,5T speed passion speedo and motor (8,0 ratio)
I tried to solve it by doing the diff and by using very low punch on the software, but it only made it happen ...later , mean not in the first 3 laps but like in lap 5 or 6 out of 15 laps.

Perhaps somebody has one hint or clue that would like to share, since the TRF 416 is brand new to me.

thanks in advance
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Old 07-09-2008, 05:06 PM   #2499
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Originally Posted by mark williams View Post
hi guys

im looking to buy a trf 416, however it looks like many places are running low on stock and dont seem to be replacing them. i see on tamiya america that they say discontinued, i have read on this thread somewhere that could just mean outta stock...my question is? does anyone know for sure if a newer version is on the way ? i dont want to buy one of the last remaining few to find that a new one is released in a month or so..made that mistake with the 415 msx....
I've heard that the next 416 iteration will be out around the end of the year. I just cracked and bought one because my secondary car doesn't perform as well as I'd like it to after I switched over to lipo. I'm hoping that the current 416 can be easily upgraded to the next version.
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Old 07-09-2008, 06:32 PM   #2500
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The track condition in my home town is very sandy, so we are all using spools on our cars.

My question is, would the short or long arms be better on a sandy track? Can anyone help or recommend a set up please.
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Old 07-09-2008, 06:43 PM   #2501
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RE : The delrin outdrives from 415 series.

Last night I tried the after market metal outdrives from 415MRE on the 416 with 416 spool bearing holders. The 415MRE outdrives is a tad wider. As a result it cannot fit between the bulkheads.

I am not sure if the bearing holders from the 416 spool is any different with the stock ones.

A friend at the track tried to use the 415 delrin outdrive on his 416 spool and discovered that the difference of the black out drives from the 416 spool compared to a 415 delrin out drive is that the black ones is about .5mm longer. As such the blue aluminium tube will not lock in as with the black out drive whcih can be fixed easily. The main thing is, if it can fit between the bulkheads.

Can anyone confirm if the 9804268 (for 415MSX) can be used in a 416?

OM
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Old 07-09-2008, 07:05 PM   #2502
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drcy View Post
Hi there,

last weekend I race the first time with my 416 on the long arms (original) version and with the "out-of-the-box" setup
Only the Ackermann to be 3mm, 50wt oil up front with 3 holes
45wt oil at the rear with the 3 holes.
MMore tires and LRP asphalt additive
on a big track with low/medium asphalt track.

The problem I had was that the tires were doing well but when I jump on the throtlle it made the rear come to the front lol on a classic 360 - like if it was driving on ice....
I was using a 3,5T speed passion speedo and motor (8,0 ratio)
I tried to solve it by doing the diff and by using very low punch on the software, but it only made it happen ...later , mean not in the first 3 laps but like in lap 5 or 6 out of 15 laps.

Perhaps somebody has one hint or clue that would like to share, since the TRF 416 is brand new to me.

thanks in advance
adding more front droop will stick the rear down when you get on the throttle. For asphalt I always use the inner hole on the rear bulkhead for the upper camber link... this is also the change to make if the car is breaking rear traction on corner entry

Quote:
Originally Posted by selascr View Post
The track condition in my home town is very sandy, so we are all using spools on our cars.

My question is, would the short or long arms be better on a sandy track? Can anyone help or recommend a set up please.
stick with short arms and use the inner hole for all your camber links. I'd also use hole 1 on the front arms and 2 on the rear and lay the shocks down 1-2 holes from kit
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Old 07-09-2008, 07:32 PM   #2503
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Cool (settling rear suspension?)

Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
adding more front droop will stick the rear down when you get on the throttle. For asphalt I always use the inner hole on the rear bulkhead for the upper camber link... this is also the change to make if the car is breaking rear traction on corner entry


stick with short arms and use the inner hole for all your camber links. I'd also use hole 1 on the front arms and 2 on the rear and lay the shocks down 1-2 holes from kit
So when you say the inner hole the rear bulkhead are you lengthening or shortening the camber link itself? More front droop does settle the rear down but you may loose some overall steering?
What if you remove all shims from the rear blocks, will that settle the rearend also?
Inquiring minds want to know!



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Old 07-10-2008, 01:59 AM   #2504
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Originally Posted by maxepower View Post
So when you say the inner hole the rear bulkhead are you lengthening or shortening the camber link itself? More front droop does settle the rear down but you may loose some overall steering?
What if you remove all shims from the rear blocks, will that settle the rearend also?
Inquiring minds want to know!



1
yep longest arms (hole 3). Removing shims from the hubs will also give the rear more traction but it's a fine adjustment. So far I've tried the following camber links settings f/r on a low/med grip asphalt track.... 1/1 - very steery but would break rear traction on corner entry; 1/3 - less steering but excellent at changing directions esp off power; 3/3 the best compromise in low grip, car is very predictable but can feel a little doughy so I stood the rear shocks up 1 hole... these were the general trends but obviously it's all dependent on other settings e.g. arms, susp blocks, spacers, toe, ackerman
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Old 07-10-2008, 04:53 AM   #2505
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hey all. just finished changing my car to the short arms and putting on my Square alloy hop up parts. car looks trick, however i have come across a problem. On the left side of the car when i tighten the screw on the bottom of the C Hub it locks up the knuckle so it is not free to move from side to side you have to force it to move and if you keep moving it the screw comes loose on the bottom. i do not have the same problem on the other side. Any ideas on why this is happening?
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