TryHard

iTrader: (4)

sounds like a bent suspension block or hinge pin. Take the blocks off the car, and line them up against a straight edge. Do the same with the hinge pins.
Should be able to spot if they are bent quite easily.

Do that and then get back to us

HiH
Ed

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

I believe the top packs out there are... (in no particular order).

Core 5000,
Orion 3600,
SMC 4000 & 5000

Pick one of thoose three and you'll be fine

HiH
Ed

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

Does the SMC 5000 fit without modification?

pug 205 gti

Regarding the lipos.I understand the capacity rating and the 2 cell business.
What gets me is the 20c.25c.28c?? Im not understanding this?
Ive read that the higher the number the better punch is this correct?
But demon claim that it doesnt mean a thing when running 19t?
So guys out there that run 19t what do you think?
I know this is the 416 thread.but 415 now the 416 thread has always been the best for sensible informative knowledge.
O a good note my funds have increased of late so i maybe be joining the 416 brigade
Thing is though now i have some money i dont know where there is one?please pm me with a link if you are in the know
Thanks

pug 205 gti

Good question

sakaguchinet

Hi,

Tamiya has just announced on its japanese news site new blue titanium turnbuckles. Also a new wrench will be available soon.

HPZ

iTrader: (12)

Ed: just checked my hinge pins and and the suspension blocks, they are all as straight as can be. Also there is no play or binding in my arms and pins as i shim them out with the 3mm shims.

so far i can't seem to find the culprit for this weird left to right balance

veecee

iTrader: (34)

Looks like it does - http://rctech.net/forum/showpost.php...postcount=1758

Just curious... When it is that close to the upper deck, will it affect handling because it impedes the chassis from flexing properly?

Eirik

Try a new set of tires or swap them arround.
Sometimes the belting in one tire loosens and the car will be terrible!

HPZ

iTrader: (12)

i was testing with a new set of tires and a new body as well

my reasoning is that the heavy brushless motor is putting left rear biased weight and the batteries aren't heavy enough around the rear right of the car hence my test with the 4cells and heavily lead loaded right side worked out fine , but isn't pratical.

doesn't anyone else seem that the heavy brushless motors are putting too much rear bias on the car ?

any help appreciated
HPZ

pug 205 gti

From what ive understood the TRF416 was designed to have more weight over the rear wheels to help get all the brushless power hooked up.
I bet that like MR ED said, "that something is Eltonjohn"
check shock lengths with and with out springs.mayalso be a leaky shock or have air bubbles in.

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

I was breaking arms like crazy on my car yesterday, so I went back to the soft c-hubs (from the TA05-IFS) that I'd been using before. Same mould as the stock ones, but a much softer material. Not only did the breakage stop, but I gained a TON of steering (treated asphalt) and found the car to behave much better than before. I know soft suspension components are a faux pas, but the car worked SO much better with them, I'm not sure what to think now.

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

Also, is the spool not intended to be used in the high position? The sleeves rubbed on the bulk heads, heated up, and melted the outdrives. I had the dots on the carriers pointing down, which I believe moves the spool high. This doesn't seem like an option without some modification to the top part of the bulkhead.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Have you checked your tweak settings?
Personally, I'll set the car up so the tweak is correct side to side (I use an MIP tweak station for this, as personally, I feel it's the most accurate method), rather than ensuring ride height is correct side to side.

What i do is first off, take the wheels and tires off the car and remove the shocks from the arms. Then I'll set my droop up using a gauge underneath the chassis, measuring to the same point (under the outer hinge pins) on the arms.
Following that, I'll place the car on a flat surface (a setup board usually), and loosen the top deck screws. Pushing down lightly on the shock towers, I'll re tighten the top deck screws, to ensure that the chassis is flat.

Now, I'll re-mount the shocks, wheels and tyres, and have the shocks set too an equal number of turns of the collars (having previously built them all up equal in terms of length). Then I'll place the car on the tweak station, and see how the tweak is set (make sure you have all your electrics in at this point, including batteries), then adjust the shock collars accordingly until the tweak is correct. Usually, 1-1&1/2 turns is the maximum the shocks should be different. More than 2, and I'd go back and make sure the car is built straight.

Then set you ride height at the front of the car, by making equal adjustments to the left and right shocks. Do the same at the rear for the rear ride height. This way, you'll keep your tweak setting correct, whilst getting the ride height close enough. Like I said before having the tweak correct is, IMO, far more important to a good handling car than having the ride hieght correct.

HiH
Ed

Kwikvdub

iTrader: (100)

Try here:
http://rcmarket.com.hk/product_info....oducts_id=2717

Great place to order Tamiya stuff!