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Old 04-06-2008, 04:14 AM   #1816
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I think Jimmy posted earlier about the 3racing Casters......Save your money and get the Square. Or make sure you check the straightness in the event of a hard hit or a strong rub. A slight bent will effect the performance of the car. Its driveable but it will handle very sloppy on certain turns/sweeper from left to right.
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Old 04-06-2008, 06:00 AM   #1817
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hi i played rc for over 4 months already. 1stly i used keyence esc with brushed tamiya and koyomo 23t. now for almost two weeks i used lrp tc spec esc with Bl motor speed passion 11.5t. for both i used pinion from 38/(105spur) to 40/(105spur) at my track. now i would like to try 3.5t mod lrp motor.

my question is what should i change? what is the new range of gear ratio/pinion size should be? belt tension? should i increased and how much? what else should i consider to play 3.5t motor.

just need opinion...tq
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Old 04-06-2008, 06:12 AM   #1818
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hi i played rc for over 4 months already. 1stly i used keyence esc with brushed tamiya and koyomo 23t. now for almost two weeks i used lrp tc spec esc with Bl motor speed passion 11.5t. for both i used pinion from 38/(105spur) to 40/(105spur) at my track. now i would like to try 3.5t mod lrp motor.

my question is what should i change? what is the new range of gear ratio/pinion size should be? belt tension? should i increased and how much? what else should i consider to play 3.5t motor.

just need opinion...tq
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Old 04-06-2008, 07:21 AM   #1819
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Ed,

I was reading your testing with the mounting of the sway bars. Have you tried your own made option on the track yet?
And do you know when those Cyclone parts for the sway bars will be available?

Thanks.

Arjen
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Old 04-06-2008, 07:43 AM   #1820
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Originally Posted by fadzli View Post
hi i played rc for over 4 months already. 1stly i used keyence esc with brushed tamiya and koyomo 23t. now for almost two weeks i used lrp tc spec esc with Bl motor speed passion 11.5t. for both i used pinion from 38/(105spur) to 40/(105spur) at my track. now i would like to try 3.5t mod lrp motor.

my question is what should i change? what is the new range of gear ratio/pinion size should be? belt tension? should i increased and how much? what else should i consider to play 3.5t motor.

just need opinion...tq
I assume you running 6cells, if so, you need to consider if you really want to do 3.5t as it's much-much-much faster than 11.5t. If you still think so, get around 20t pinon than, that will make your FDR around 10.5 which is typical FDR for 3.5t 6cells, IF the motor can handle the super-high-RPM.

I personally wont run 3.5t with 6cells anymore, bcz it push motor RPM so high that rotator very easy to get kill (been there, done that)
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Old 04-06-2008, 09:41 AM   #1821
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Ed,

I was reading your testing with the mounting of the sway bars. Have you tried your own made option on the track yet?
And do you know when those Cyclone parts for the sway bars will be available?

Thanks.

Arjen
I have to admit, I haven't tested it yet....
Not sure when the parts will be out, but I'm keeping my eye on them.

Oh, and on an interesting note, I saw that at the LRP, Ronald Volker was only running the new bits on the rear of the car, the front was the previous version.

Cheers
Ed
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Old 04-06-2008, 04:57 PM   #1822
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I am using a Novak GTB and SS13.5, a Futaba s9551 and a standard size Futaba receiver in my TRF416, everything else is stock standard. The car weighs in at 1630 grams, how can I lighten it up? How much weight saving does the titanium and aluminum screw set give you? Any comments and ideas are welcome.
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Old 04-06-2008, 05:14 PM   #1823
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Is there a setup out there for a barely prepared asphalt surface (parking lot)? Trying to figure it out on my own was an epic failure. I miss the rug. :-)
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Old 04-06-2008, 05:19 PM   #1824
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I am using a Novak GTB and SS13.5, a Futaba s9551 and a standard size Futaba receiver in my TRF416, everything else is stock standard. The car weighs in at 1630 grams, how can I lighten it up? How much weight saving does the titanium and aluminum screw set give you? Any comments and ideas are welcome.
I don't think the titanium would save much(it's only a wee bit lighter than steel, though it's stronger), but aluminum would save a little(but on the bottom of the chassis, I don't think I'd wanna risk using them, you need strength down there more than anything). However, am I right in assuming that you're running NiMh batteries? I can't think how the car would weigh that much unless you were(& my cars would weigh about that with NiMh's, & my electronics selections are almost identical to yours, though I use a Spektrum micro reciever). And on that note, have you thought about using LiPo's? I just recently made the switch to them myself, & I have to say I'm DELIGHTED with the results so far, especially on the weight front. With a good LiPo(like say, Orion's Carbon 3600 or SMC's 4000 & 5000 hardcased packs for example), you'll save a LOT of weight, with my car, I got the SMC 5000 pack & with it, I had to add about 126 grams of counter weights to get mine to our track's legal minimum(in our case, it's 1530 grams total car weight), & of course, that means I could also play alot with weight locations to get the car's weight balance as close to perfect as I can(& I discovered it REALLY helps too, when I tried a run without some of the weights, making the battery side of the car a bit light, really unbalanced the car ontrack). Add to that the fact that you can use a single pack ALL DAY without even needing to take it out of the car(unless you need to adjust some things on the car, & wanna do some cleaning, etc.). Definitely something to consider....
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Old 04-06-2008, 05:44 PM   #1825
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Is there a setup out there for a barely prepared asphalt surface (parking lot)? Trying to figure it out on my own was an epic failure. I miss the rug. :-)
Not a good outing I suspect? ...
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Old 04-06-2008, 05:56 PM   #1826
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Is there a setup out there for a barely prepared asphalt surface (parking lot)? Trying to figure it out on my own was an epic failure. I miss the rug. :-)
Track or car loose? What's the problem? I was suppose to race today. But the track was too wet from the heavy rain yesterday. Plus a litte drizzle today. But Terrell and myself found a dry parking lot to practice. I played with some setup changes. I can post one for you to try. Do you want your car aggressive? Do you have a spool? LW short arms? I'll post it in a bit after I write it down. Along with some suggestions for changes on it. You running 13.5, mod, or stock?
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Old 04-06-2008, 06:19 PM   #1827
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Originally Posted by miccal View Post
I am using a Novak GTB and SS13.5, a Futaba s9551 and a standard size Futaba receiver in my TRF416, everything else is stock standard. The car weighs in at 1630 grams, how can I lighten it up? How much weight saving does the titanium and aluminum screw set give you? Any comments and ideas are welcome.
Dude, how much paint is on your car body??? My car weighs in at 1510g race ready with 6cell Ener-G 4600 cells, Futaba s9550, Spektrum SR3100 rx, LRP TC spec esc, SP 13.5, and PF Stratus 3.0AP. Of course I'm running a spool. But the oneway only weighs 27g. Subtract a little from the spool and you still are under 1525g. My bones are not aluminum all around like stock. Rears are 42mm Ti and fronts are 46mm steel. I do have ceramic diff balls and thrust bearing. But I also have the aluminum airscoop added under the ESC. All steel screws. Weigh your car without body. Mine is 1393g. My Stratus AP is 117g. My Speed6 is 110g. My DNA 2 asphalt is 113g. I'm also running LW short arms. But weighing the LW long vs LW short, there is no weight difference. I'm also running 3racing aluminum caster blocks. 4g for the aluminum. 2g for the stock blocks. Hmmmm, I dunno why yours is a pig?? got any pics of it?
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Old 04-06-2008, 06:36 PM   #1828
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Dude, how much paint is on your car body??? My car weighs in at 1510g race ready with 6cell Ener-G 4600 cells, Futaba s9550, Spektrum SR3100 rx, LRP TC spec esc, SP 13.5, and PF Stratus 3.0AP. Of course I'm running a spool. But the oneway only weighs 27g. Subtract a little from the spool and you still are under 1525g. My bones are not aluminum all around like stock. Rears are 42mm Ti and fronts are 46mm steel. I do have ceramic diff balls and thrust bearing. But I also have the aluminum airscoop added under the ESC. All steel screws. Weigh your car without body. Mine is 1393g. My Stratus AP is 117g. My Speed6 is 110g. My DNA 2 asphalt is 113g. I'm also running LW short arms. But weighing the LW long vs LW short, there is no weight difference. I'm also running 3racing aluminum caster blocks. 4g for the aluminum. 2g for the stock blocks. Hmmmm, I dunno why yours is a pig?? got any pics of it?
My body weights about 110 grams, so that is not it. I use IB4600 6 cell packs, LWT arms, steel swingshafts and a spool. I am under the impression that the Novak GTB/SS13.5 system is heavier than others. Lipo is not an option for me, they are not allowed as yet.
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Old 04-06-2008, 06:48 PM   #1829
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I dunno, manufacture specs (if that means anything) puts the LRP heavier than the GTB. But it might be in the motor. I think Terrell said his Novak 13.5 was heavier than his SP13.5. Either way, I think something is off on your car. I can't see how it's that heavy? Unless if the IB's are that much heavier than Ener-G cells + the extra weight of the Novak motor. I wonder if the s9551 is heavier than the s9550?
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Old 04-06-2008, 08:16 PM   #1830
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Syndr0me, here's a parking lot starting setup you can try. If you want a tad less steering, try going from 3mm to 4mm for Steering Spacer (on steering rack). Or you can try adding more rear toe. To free up the rear a little, try changing the Rear Upper Arm Spacer from 1mm to 2mm for less camber gain. I think this will mostly affect midcorner out. Apply all other tuning changes for desired effect.

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