Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
#1786
in addition to lightweight arms, i just bought a set. i was just wondering what side do you guys use it. i noticed that there's a marking on the arms (d1 and d2 if i'm not mistaken) if you look at your car (top view) should you see the letters d1 and d2 (both front and rear)
#1787
I mostly use No.2 hole. Except right now I am on No.3 in the rear. But normally I only use No.2 all around. It's the standard hole if you follow the instructions that come with the arms.
#1788
For the guys running the short lightweight arms, how does it change the car's handling? Also did you need different dogbones?
#1789
C-Hubs Problem
Hello,
regarding the c-hubs "problem": I think there isn't a problem. When touching the wall hard the forces must go anywhere (in the 416 the C-Hubs seems to catch a greater part of this forces). But you have to see, that on the other side any other part is getting damaged (like the 46mm suspension shafts or the suspension arms).
So my only solution is to stock the #54031 C-Hubs in raw dimensions.
By the way: Here is a pic of my TRF416 directly from the LRP TCM Masters and another pic showing Marc Rheinards chassis.
regarding the c-hubs "problem": I think there isn't a problem. When touching the wall hard the forces must go anywhere (in the 416 the C-Hubs seems to catch a greater part of this forces). But you have to see, that on the other side any other part is getting damaged (like the 46mm suspension shafts or the suspension arms).
So my only solution is to stock the #54031 C-Hubs in raw dimensions.
By the way: Here is a pic of my TRF416 directly from the LRP TCM Masters and another pic showing Marc Rheinards chassis.
#1790
Tech Lord
iTrader: (32)
Marc's car looks as bone stock as can be. With Tamiya's history, I kind of figured we'd see them testing new parts by now. I'm glad to see they're spending some time with the current chassis, figuring it out. I guess maybe they've already done that, the wins keep piling up.
I wish we knew for sure whether or not Tamiya was going to release 416 toe blocks. I've been holding off for a while now in hopes that they're coming. Since I need to buy them all, I'd like to get it right the first time.
So, with the spool, what parts should I stock up as spares? I've never run one before, but I know they're hard on the drive train (and fragile) so I'm guessing I need to grab a few things.
I wish we knew for sure whether or not Tamiya was going to release 416 toe blocks. I've been holding off for a while now in hopes that they're coming. Since I need to buy them all, I'd like to get it right the first time.
So, with the spool, what parts should I stock up as spares? I've never run one before, but I know they're hard on the drive train (and fragile) so I'm guessing I need to grab a few things.
#1791
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Most manufacturers seem to offer arms a pairs per side... not much we can do about it
As for the other arm questions. If you look at the arms, you'll see the shock mounting holes on both sides of the arms. The standard setup calls for the shocks to be one hole in from the outermost hole. On the longer LWT arms, this was a bit easier, as one side had three holes, and the other two... but with two holes either side on the short LWT, it's a bit harder.
As a quick pointer though, you'll have the arms correct if you have a the marking only showing on one side. Obviously, depending on which shock holes you use will depend on which side has the marking showing.
What you don't want is both sides to either be showing/not showing a marking, as it means your shocks will be mounted in different holes.
And the driveshafts fit fine, nothing else needs changing when switching arms Only possible issue, is the right rear driveshaft blade touching the diff nut, this can be solved by sanding off a little material from the blade.
HiH
Ed
#1792
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Marc's car looks as bone stock as can be. With Tamiya's history, I kind of figured we'd see them testing new parts by now. I'm glad to see they're spending some time with the current chassis, figuring it out. I guess maybe they've already done that, the wins keep piling up.
I wish we knew for sure whether or not Tamiya was going to release 416 toe blocks. I've been holding off for a while now in hopes that they're coming. Since I need to buy them all, I'd like to get it right the first time.
So, with the spool, what parts should I stock up as spares? I've never run one before, but I know they're hard on the drive train (and fragile) so I'm guessing I need to grab a few things.
I wish we knew for sure whether or not Tamiya was going to release 416 toe blocks. I've been holding off for a while now in hopes that they're coming. Since I need to buy them all, I'd like to get it right the first time.
So, with the spool, what parts should I stock up as spares? I've never run one before, but I know they're hard on the drive train (and fragile) so I'm guessing I need to grab a few things.
If they are any other new bits, we'll probably see them at the worlds, as they tend to like testing in secret
Are we sure thats Marc's car? I would have thought it's Jilles', given the Speedpassion Motor, and SMC Batteries. But I may be wrong, and it possible Marc has switched from Checkpoint (although you would have thought there would be an announcement about him changing).
As for the spool, yes they can be hard on the drivetrain, but not overly so I find. The main issue is the strain they put on the rest of the driveline during a crash, as there's no give like a diff or oneway. Indoors, I've gone back to using steel drivecups on the spool (need to buy a TA05 spool for this, and use it's drivecups. Unfortuantly, I can't get hold of them seperatly), and there's no issue of fragility. On bigger outdoor tracks, using the delrin ones are fine
HiH
Ed
#1793
Look at the transponder number. Remember.. Jilles number is 2222222. That number on there is Marc's.
Steel outdrives to me cause a little more chatter with just a little loss in steering as well. But they don't wear out. I do keep a spare set of them on hand.
One key to less wear and tear is a smooth throttle finger. Otherwise it's just like an on/off switch with the drivetrain lashing back and forth wearing everything out.
Oh, and one thing I see different on Marc's car is the motor mount.....
Steel outdrives to me cause a little more chatter with just a little loss in steering as well. But they don't wear out. I do keep a spare set of them on hand.
One key to less wear and tear is a smooth throttle finger. Otherwise it's just like an on/off switch with the drivetrain lashing back and forth wearing everything out.
Oh, and one thing I see different on Marc's car is the motor mount.....
#1794
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Look at the transponder number. Remember.. Jilles number is 2222222. That number on there is Marc's.
Steel outdrives to me cause a little more chatter with just a little loss in steering as well. But they don't wear out. I do keep a spare set of them on hand.
One key to less wear and tear is a smooth throttle finger. Otherwise it's just like an on/off switch with the drivetrain lashing back and forth wearing everything out.
Oh, and one thing I see different on Marc's car is the motor mount.....
Steel outdrives to me cause a little more chatter with just a little loss in steering as well. But they don't wear out. I do keep a spare set of them on hand.
One key to less wear and tear is a smooth throttle finger. Otherwise it's just like an on/off switch with the drivetrain lashing back and forth wearing everything out.
Oh, and one thing I see different on Marc's car is the motor mount.....
Good spot on teh motor mount, looks like it has a little more material on it against the motor.
One thing else I've spotted, it looks like he's running the rear hubs fully back against the arm, as that looks like a 1mm rather than a 0.5mm spacer. In fact also looks like the wheelbase is longer all round too, as it looks like 3mm behind the front arm, and 3mm in front of the rear arm.
Cheers
Ed
#1795
on the c-hubs and uprights i have allways used Square alloy, thx to Dai.
the plastic tends to brake easyly and the alloy only bends if you have a very serious crash - has only happend once.
so for minor crashes the alloy wont bend and the car will last longer. On major crashes the alloy bend, but -hey so would the plastic.
ill stick with Square alloy
btw - still in love with my car and had my first win of the year with TRF416
the plastic tends to brake easyly and the alloy only bends if you have a very serious crash - has only happend once.
so for minor crashes the alloy wont bend and the car will last longer. On major crashes the alloy bend, but -hey so would the plastic.
ill stick with Square alloy
btw - still in love with my car and had my first win of the year with TRF416
#1796
Yes, seems he might of been going for maybe stability with a longer wheel base. As for the motor mount, I noticed he ran it at TITC as well. But there he ran with the front arms all the way back. And with mid length camber links.
With this car I seem to be enjoying racing more. I dunno if it's the car itself. Or that I'm wanting to learn everything about it. Or both? But at least I'm happy with it.
With this car I seem to be enjoying racing more. I dunno if it's the car itself. Or that I'm wanting to learn everything about it. Or both? But at least I'm happy with it.
#1797
#1798
RC Market has it listed as well. But not sure if they have them in stock even though the website said it was when I ordered it. I hate ordering from there though. I end up spending more than what I planned on... Oh well, need to stock up on spares before I head to the Nats in June.
#1799
RC Market has it listed as well. But not sure if they have them in stock even though the website said it was when I ordered it. I hate ordering from there though. I end up spending more than what I planned on... Oh well, need to stock up on spares before I head to the Nats in June.