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Old 03-07-2008, 06:41 AM   #1606
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Originally Posted by pug 205 gti View Post
I take it fab is running TF5 "shin"stallion now? oh well good luck to him!
Yes I am... And so far it's bloody good as well... Don't worry I still keep an eye on that thread...
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Old 03-08-2008, 08:47 AM   #1607
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Nope, having them free to rotate helps absorb any shock loading. Best thing to do is just apply some diff grease to the outdrive and diff ring, just to hold it in place during assembly.

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Hey Thanks for that tip! Its been puzzling me for ages!
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Old 03-08-2008, 12:43 PM   #1608
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Hello, Pics of the finished 416.
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Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X-resized_dsc00582.jpg   Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X-resized_dsc00583.jpg  
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Old 03-08-2008, 05:00 PM   #1609
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Hey Ed do u now the spring rates of the TM springs?
they go by 1.2mm to 1.9mm. thanks for any info u can give me
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Old 03-08-2008, 05:30 PM   #1610
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Hey Ed do u now the spring rates of the TM springs?
they go by 1.2mm to 1.9mm. thanks for any info u can give me
Here you can get some information

If you provide me the wire diameter, the spring diamater @ mid wire diameter and the number of active coils, which is the number of coils subjected to flexure (always less than the total number of coils), I can sort out the rates for the missing ones.
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Old 03-08-2008, 09:17 PM   #1611
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Hey all,

Quick document here. Bascially pulling together as much of the advice I can for the 416. This document is going to form the basis of the tips and tricks section on my site when I get round to it ().

Let me know your thoughts, and if anyone has anything else to add.

Cheers
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Thanks Ed!! So great to have some one like you in this board.

Cheers!

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Old 03-09-2008, 06:55 PM   #1612
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
Hey all,

Quick document here. Bascially pulling together as much of the advice I can for the 416. This document is going to form the basis of the tips and tricks section on my site when I get round to it ().

Let me know your thoughts, and if anyone has anything else to add.

Cheers
Ed
maybe u can add the setting stuff. what happen if u change this and what if chage that. and what to do on setting to change the car performance. specially for 416. Xray and Hudy setup has a very good manual for setting their car but tamiya dont has like that. maybe u can produce one. tq
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Old 03-09-2008, 07:04 PM   #1613
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Race report:

Well ran the 2degree front arm sweep today. I didn't really do back to back testing with and without arm sweep though. But I liked it so far. Parking lot track with PVC pipe with some tight sections, and some high speed sections.

1st and 2nd qualifier my car was loose off throttle in some of the tight turns and the fast chicane. So it was hard to push the car consistently. I was running 1.5 rear toe. So I thought going to 2.5 might help alittle. Did a hair, but not too much. Lap times were 18's with the occasional 17 sec. Qualifying was 2nd spot so far.

So for 3rd Q, I figure the rear was re~acting too much to the short link on the rear hub. So I went long on the hub. Switched the springs as well from XRay 2.8 front and 2.6 rear to Hara Red front and Gray rear. I would of used Tamiya springs. But think it would be too soft for this day/track. 3rd qualifier I was just about all in the 17's with a fast lap of 17.1 sec. Ended up with TQ. Car was great. Tons of high speed steering and good enough for low speed.

Speedpassion 13.5 had goobs and goobs of torque!!! SMC 4000 pack was just awesome. Ran the same pack the whole day. I think I need to gear down though. Motor temp was between 150~170 in certain spots. And the weather was 60ish (Fahrenheit for you euro/asia crowd ) Car was nicely balanced with the PPD lipo plate and a 1.3mm lead slab under the lipo pack. Nice clean appearance.

Anyways, ended up with the win. Would of had a good run with the 2nd spot qualifier. But he had a bad first turn experience.

I was also running Muchmore 30* (Celsius) orings with 30* bladders and MM350 oil. But I don't like the bladders because they leak bad from the caps. Even when using the bladder shims. So I will be goin back to the stock Tamiya bladders. But I'll keep the orings in place for now. When it warms up I'll be goin to 450~600 weight oil with the 40~50degree orings.

Over all pleased with the car today. Next weekend I'll be running on a different track that I never been. So I don't want to change anything major.
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Old 03-09-2008, 07:07 PM   #1614
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Oh yeah..

Cheers,
JMac
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Old 03-09-2008, 07:21 PM   #1615
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Hello, I need some info. Whats the trick to setting the rear diff. I see the hole that you are to slide in to. but the spring is in the way. is there something i am missing.Thanks Ron,
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Old 03-09-2008, 07:25 PM   #1616
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Go back and re-read the directions. You assembled it wrong. (not trying to be a smart arse) Spring goes on the other side with the nut.
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Old 03-09-2008, 07:34 PM   #1617
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Okay.... I was going over my car... I found out I placed the wrong block on the rear... front/rear block. Instead of a 1X block. I used a X block (EvoIV block). So in actuality, I had some anti~squat in the rear. That would explain the on power snappyness of the rear end if I got on it too hard. Hmmmm..... Gotta change that. Maybe I'll gain a little more midcorner steering if I do. Car was fine though...
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Old 03-09-2008, 07:51 PM   #1618
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is there any carpet spec chasis and frt diff available yet for the 416.im still using the old 415 msx with all the carpet upgades thanks
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Old 03-09-2008, 08:32 PM   #1619
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Rear diff fits up front. Carpet spec chassis? For what? Foam tire? No.
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Old 03-10-2008, 02:05 AM   #1620
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fitting a spool, apart from Ed's mod, you need to remove a small amount of material if using a 416 D rear block. Otherwise the 37T pulley will touch it running a loose belt.

For the top motor screw 3x6mm, you can not use a std cap screw, as the top deck will not allow full movement of the slot.
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