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Old 03-03-2008, 11:47 PM   #1546
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Originally Posted by bigbutstupid View Post
mind posting details of your setup? cheers buddy
On the top of my head:

Sorex 32's with Xenon Black insert, Paragon full rear and 1/2 inside front
Ride Height 5mm all-around
Front Droop 5mm
Front Caster block 4 deg
Front Toe 0 Deg
Front Camber -1.5; inside link location lower inner w/ 3mm shim
Front Shocks 45 wt, stock piston, with sponge - TAMIYA Blue Spring
Front Shock position, Top = middle, Bottom = outermost (flipped arm, only 2 mounts)
Stock Roll Bar
Front Suspension blocks 1A (rear, flipped over) & 1B (front, oriented normally)
Rearward ackerman position

Rear Droop 4mm
Rear Camber -1.5; inside link location innermost w/ 3mm shim
outside link location innermost w/ 2mm shim
Rear Shocks 40 wt, stock piston, with sponge - TAMIYA Yellow spring
Rear Shock position, Top = 3rd from outermost, Bottom = middle position
Stock roll bar
Rear suspension blocks 1 XB (front, normally oriented) and 1B (rear).
(Total Rear Toe-IN = 2 deg)

Stock arms
ONE-WAY
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Old 03-04-2008, 01:01 AM   #1547
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Thanks for the input guys.

Yesterday I was alittle scared to try some more toe-out up front because my rear end was loose. But it was loose mid-out. What I did to correct that was camber gain. I had 2mm under the inner link in the rear. I went down to 1mm and it solved that issue. I may try more toe-out up front as I know that is a powerful adjustment for entry. Wish I had more time to test.

I may try higher oil in my car now that you suggested it.. I used to run heavier oil when I ran my Yok years ago. It seemed to like it. So I may try it on this car.

Ed, I'm running D/D up front (I run LWS arms). And no axle shims. Wish I had a C block that I didn't have to mod out. Maybe I'll just wait for Tamiya to come out with one. That or just a C/B setting... OR.... E/D? up front? haha.

Bmmer, are you running the kit 105 spur? If so, you can not use that spur for brushless 17.5~10.5 motors. It's too large. I run a 102 spur and the largest pinion I can use is a 46 before the pinions start to touch the top deck. This combo gives you about a 4.55 final. I use this for 13.5. You could go with a 96 spur if you want to run 13.5 or 10.5. Or get maybe an 88 spur if you want to run 17.5. I have yet to try 17.5. But I will soon.

Travis, MRE spool with 501/416 oneway pulley (or just use the pulley in your kit). Flip the pulley onto the other side of the spool. Pics posted awhile back in this forum.

Hey Mike, Certainly look at the C/B on the front end if you can... I gather your trying to stay TCS legal, so can't use the Serpent block? I was expecting it to make the car a little unstable at the weekend, but if anything it only gave front end, without affecting the rear at all. Just gave me more steering where it was needed, finally felt like I hit a sweet spot in terms of handling

I also tended to find the rear end a little loose on occasion, I've ended up tuning it out with less shims under the outer rear link (normally now use 3 inner, 2-3 outer). In terms of Rollcentres, the inner position on the bulkheaded is a finner tuning option than the outer position.

In fact, if you look at the three options for adjusting roll centres (camber link pos, & suspension blocks), in terms of coarseness of tune it goes...
Coarse tune -----------------------------> Fine tune
Sus block -----> Outer ball joint -----> Inner ball joint
This is the same for all cars too

Obviously, as you also mention, camber change is affected by the settings too, although I tend to use the link positions to alter that (coarse vs fine tune again ), but a nice flat link seems to help on the rear too

Cheers
Ed
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Old 03-04-2008, 03:01 AM   #1548
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Good input Ed. I may try the C/B blocks up front this weekend. This car is by no means a TCS car for me. That's why I use the RDX cvds up front. I'm just trying to gather as much info on this car as I can. I'll be heading to the Roar Nationals in June. So I'm gonna need all the help I can get.
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Old 03-04-2008, 03:22 AM   #1549
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They are great cars, they are easy to drive and make the driver look good. Speedtech rc has them in stock. http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...alpage=special


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I have heard nothing but great things about this car, especially on rubber tires. It may serve me well to pick one but, but money is an issue now.

How much are they? Where can I get one?

Khal
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Old 03-04-2008, 04:42 AM   #1550
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What aftermarket spur gears work on the 416?

I noticed some RW spurs have the right mounting holes and some don't???
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Old 03-04-2008, 04:43 AM   #1551
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What aftermarket spur gears work on the 416?
All of them I believe... I've used Xenon and RW fine with no issues.

HiH
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Old 03-04-2008, 04:51 AM   #1552
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Originally Posted by JimmyMac View Post
Bmmer, are you running the kit 105 spur? If so, you can not use that spur for brushless 17.5~10.5 motors. It's too large. I run a 102 spur and the largest pinion I can use is a 46 before the pinions start to touch the top deck. This combo gives you about a 4.55 final. I use this for 13.5. You could go with a 96 spur if you want to run 13.5 or 10.5. Or get maybe an 88 spur if you want to run 17.5. I have yet to try 17.5. But I will soon.
This past weekend I ran a Novak 17.5 / LRP TC speedo rubber on carpet. 88 spur with 45 pinion = 4.02 gear ratio. The car ran well but I need some more time with it.
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Old 03-04-2008, 06:30 AM   #1553
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I imagine I'd need a 3.0 final for the places I'll be running the 17.5 haha.

I use Kawada, and Xenon spurs. Some RW's do work. Some don't. Some PRS gears work. Some don't. You need the 4 hole bolt pattern. I would just stick with Xenon since I know they always work.
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Old 03-04-2008, 06:54 AM   #1554
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I got a hold of one of these over the weekend. I could not believe how smooth and how fast this car got around the track.
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Old 03-04-2008, 07:59 AM   #1555
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Here's another one. When I ran a Cyclone, I ran maybe 2~2.5 arm sweep up front on asphalt. Has anyone tried that on the 415/416? B/A, B/C, C/D combos are only 0.5 arm sweep. So perhaps an E/A setup? Or should I be the guinea pig? haha...
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Old 03-04-2008, 08:46 AM   #1556
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Originally Posted by JimmyMac View Post
Here's another one. When I ran a Cyclone, I ran maybe 2~2.5 arm sweep up front on asphalt. Has anyone tried that on the 415/416? B/A, B/C, C/D combos are only 0.5 arm sweep. So perhaps an E/A setup? Or should I be the guinea pig? haha...
Guinea Pig, Guinea Pig, Guinea Pig....

However, when the 415 was first out, most found that a C/A (1) combination on the front was best... however when the MSX first came out it came with a B/XB combination, so 2. Then for the MRE onwards... down to B/A... go figure

I tried all of them at one point or another, and I always found 2 a bit too much for my liking. 1 seemed fine, and is usually what I settled on.

Whether or not this holds true for the 416, who knows But I have a suspiscion it'll be similar. Worth trying though
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Old 03-04-2008, 09:08 AM   #1557
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Just wondering a few things..

a) Can the new diff screw fit in a regular 415 diff? Just wondering if I can drill a small hole just like the 416 has in its diff, make it externally adjustable as well.. I suppose the diff nut could do the same as well..

b) Are the new 416 axles much different from the regular suspension axles? I know the LW ones are too short since 5x10 bearings are wider, but would the regular ones work, or is there a large difference in the bearing spacing for the uprights?

c) The LW suspension sits the axles and universals a bit wider than the standard suspension.. does the new set bring them back inwards, or keep them the same?

Thanks in advance for your time,
James
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Old 03-04-2008, 09:45 AM   #1558
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You are correct. I had forgotten all about the MSX. My last 415 was/is the MRE. I will try C/XA combo this weekend (if the bones don't push too far into the spool). That, or E/A combo. I think C/XA would be more for the LW long set. And since I'm using LW short... maybe E/A would be better. Hmmmmm. Plus the bones won't be pushed too far in.... Hmmmmm, do I have another E block?

Jam, the 416 axles have about 2mm more spacing. So the fit has less slop than the 415/EvoIV/V series axles. If I were to keep running a 415 or other car with LW suspension, I would definitely switch over to the new 416 hubs and axles for that issue alone. Plus the larger bearings.

As for diff screw, I thought about the same thing if I were to run a TA05 again or 415. The 416 diff screw is about 2mm shorter I think. The plastic nut holder on the 415 is about 1mm thick before it reaches the nut. So to use the 416 steel nut, it might work out. However looking at my MRE aluminum diff, it would not work out right. The diff head and thrust bearing sits on the short side which is exposed from the outdrive slot. On the long side is the spring and nut. The steel 416 nut would be too short to fit "maybe". I'm not sure. You would have to slot it more if it didn't. If you went this route, you could still not adjust the diff without taking out the axle because the bearing holder blocks access to the diff screw head.

Now you could reverse the diff setup. Which I'm not sure is a good idea. Place the screw head with thrust bearing and spring on the long end. And nut on the short. Or Screw head, shim, and spring on long. And thrust and nut on short. I dunno. But you do not want the spring and thrust on the same side. Seems to be more trouble than it's worth.

I don't know answer C yet.... hehe
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Old 03-04-2008, 10:34 AM   #1559
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
Guinea Pig, Guinea Pig, Guinea Pig....

However, when the 415 was first out, most found that a C/A (1) combination on the front was best... however when the MSX first came out it came with a B/XB combination, so 2. Then for the MRE onwards... down to B/A... go figure

I tried all of them at one point or another, and I always found 2 a bit too much for my liking. 1 seemed fine, and is usually what I settled on.

Whether or not this holds true for the 416, who knows But I have a suspiscion it'll be similar. Worth trying though
how does arm sweep work?
and if you are using the short evo5 arms, then would you use D/C to achieve sweep?
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Old 03-04-2008, 10:37 AM   #1560
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Originally Posted by JimmyMac View Post
Here's another one. When I ran a Cyclone, I ran maybe 2~2.5 arm sweep up front on asphalt. Has anyone tried that on the 415/416? B/A, B/C, C/D combos are only 0.5 arm sweep. So perhaps an E/A setup? Or should I be the guinea pig? haha...
Jimmy.... PM me your thoughts (or you can post here) when comparing the 416 and the Cyclone? im at a crossroads right now

thanks

- Chris
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