The One True 13.5 Thread
#182
As for the other questions, I'm not sure. My motors are always clearly overgeared before they get hot enough to shut down, so I haven't pushed it hard enough to see. External factors could cause it though, like a bound drive train. John Stranahan had trouble with the front bearing going out in his 3.5 motors, and they'd overheat and burn. Apparently the "locked rotor detection" in the ESC wasn't fast enough to prevent it from taking the ESC and LiPo battery with it.
#183
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
2. Sure but it dosent hurt Sintered Rotors. 175*F is where bonded rotors start to get hurt.
3. No, just gear for the fastest lap time. Forget about motor temp with sintered rotors...its all about lap times. Gear ups until they stop improving and then drop back one tooth.
Note that guys with good setups that drive well and maintain fast corner speeds can run bigger gears than less experience racers. Gear for what makes YOU fastest. Do not gear based on the local fast guy.
#185
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
The Sintered rotor will break down at 130*C eg 240*F
I have overgeared and lost one rotor that does not have any punch left anymore due to overheating.This was on a GTB with a SS13.5 new design. I got a new rotor and the motor was like new.
Try not to overgear and check Motor temp...I keep my motors in the 130*F range, and they are fastest at that temp for my track.
BTW Sintered is a Bonding process for metal powders: plane and simple.
Last edited by Skruger; 10-23-2007 at 09:54 PM. Reason: I am a idiot
#186
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
its all about lap times. Gear ups until they stop improving and then drop back one tooth.
Note that guys with good setups that drive well and maintain fast corner speeds can run bigger gears than less experience racers. Gear for what makes YOU fastest. Do not gear based on the local fast guy.
Note that guys with good setups that drive well and maintain fast corner speeds can run bigger gears than less experience racers. Gear for what makes YOU fastest. Do not gear based on the local fast guy.
But still check temp...
#188
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
I have had my Novak Pro 10.5 (Sintered) and LRP X11 4.5 up to 190*F and they are still turning the same lap times as when they were new. Sintered rotors by their nature are desigend to run to just over 200*F before they start to weaken and they should return to full strength after cooling off.
Bonded rotors weaken at ~180*F and then they are toast...or so I thought. I didn't know you could zap them.
Bonded rotors weaken at ~180*F and then they are toast...or so I thought. I didn't know you could zap them.
#189
Tech Lord
iTrader: (26)
Not true
The Sintered rotor will break down at 130*C
I have overgeared and lost one rotor that does not have any punch left anymore due to overheating.This was on a GTB with a SS13.5 new design. I got a new rotor and the morot was like new.
Try not to overgear and check Motor temp...I keep my motors in the 130*F range and that are fastest at that temp for my track.
BTW Sintered is a Bonding process for metal powders: plane and simple.
The Sintered rotor will break down at 130*C
I have overgeared and lost one rotor that does not have any punch left anymore due to overheating.This was on a GTB with a SS13.5 new design. I got a new rotor and the morot was like new.
Try not to overgear and check Motor temp...I keep my motors in the 130*F range and that are fastest at that temp for my track.
BTW Sintered is a Bonding process for metal powders: plane and simple.
#191
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
thanks
Thanks to everyone who responded to my questions on tempertuare and rollout. I followed your advice and geared up 7 (yes seven) pinion teeth from where I had been and picked up about a half a second a lap. The temp at the motor went from 130F to 150F, but from what you guys are telling me that is not a concern for 13.5 sintered rotor.
Thanks for the help.
Big Bad Bob
Thanks for the help.
Big Bad Bob
#192
Can anybody confirm that there's a correlation between a motor's air gap, and its torque? Or, how much it "cogs" and its torque. I'm under the impression that the Orion with its large air gap and low cogging would be more of an RPM motor and require less gear than the Novak and LRP, but I've heard people say it actually has more torque.
#193
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
Can anybody confirm that there's a correlation between a motor's air gap, and its torque? Or, how much it "cogs" and its torque. I'm under the impression that the Orion with its large air gap and low cogging would be more of an RPM motor and require less gear than the Novak and LRP, but I've heard people say it actually has more torque.
Because braking is just the reverse action of making power, it would follow that if the air gap decreases braking effect would increase.
You can Google search "eclectic motor air gap calculation" and find lots of interesting stuff. Here is a link to an article titled "The necessary evil, air gap in rotating machinery"
http://findarticles.com/p/articles/m...n15349943/pg_1
BBB
Last edited by Fastforward; 10-23-2007 at 01:37 PM. Reason: added link
#194
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Can anybody confirm that there's a correlation between a motor's air gap, and its torque? Or, how much it "cogs" and its torque. I'm under the impression that the Orion with its large air gap and low cogging would be more of an RPM motor and require less gear than the Novak and LRP, but I've heard people say it actually has more torque.
Expect to see some optioins in this respect from Novak and LRP soon