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Old 05-30-2010, 08:23 AM   #1231
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Has anyone purchased the "Dark Chocolate conversion kit" from Yeah Racing? Is it worth it ?? Seems like a good deal for what you get. Want to upgrade my old F103The lipo battery mount and the upgraded motor pod seem like a good bet.
Anybody ??
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Old 05-30-2010, 10:32 AM   #1232
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I've just converted my F103 to LiPo power and am wondering what you guys have done to get back lost traction in the rear due to the lighter battery? Our track is very low grip for these cars so the guys who are running the 103 with LiPo have been adding weight to the rear. I'm hoping I can get by with another solution.

Out here we are running on untreated asphalt with rubber tires again and although grip is at a premium weight, and after experimenting with added weight I have found that it did more harm than good.

First you you are going to want to use the o-ring suspension with the soft t-bar locked down with a washer in front and the rear o-ring set just tight enough to keep it from swaying. lighten the lube on your damper discs to something in the 3-7K diff lube range (much softer than tam soft) and go with the red center spring and TAPE your battery in.

Both the block and link front ends with either inline or trailing axles will work well, pick the one your most comfortable with.

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Old 05-30-2010, 11:33 AM   #1233
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Originally Posted by Evoracer View Post
Has anyone purchased the "Dark Chocolate conversion kit" from Yeah Racing? Is it worth it ?? Seems like a good deal for what you get. Want to upgrade my old F103The lipo battery mount and the upgraded motor pod seem like a good bet.
I'm considering it myself as well. It does look really nice but I'm leery about the t-plate being weak where it bolts to the rear hinge. Let me know if you do get it.
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Old 05-30-2010, 11:35 AM   #1234
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Also,try stiffer front springs or a harder front tire.
Get the front to have "just enough" steering and see if
the back hooks up any better. If at that point it is still
hooking try some weight/axle. If you are running
silver cans and foams you should be able to get it to hook up ok
on a slick surface.
I've got the stiffest Tamiya spring on the front already. Already running B tires all around since it is much too hot for A's to get any grip. Foams get no grip at all on this track.
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Old 05-30-2010, 11:37 AM   #1235
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Out here we are running on untreated asphalt with rubber tires again and although grip is at a premium weight, and after experimenting with added weight I have found that it did more harm than good.

First you you are going to want to use the o-ring suspension with the soft t-bar locked down with a washer in front and the rear o-ring set just tight enough to keep it from swaying. lighten the lube on your damper discs to something in the 3-7K diff lube range (much softer than tam soft) and go with the red center spring and TAPE your battery in.

Both the block and link front ends with either inline or trailing axles will work well, pick the one your most comfortable with.

Mark
Interesting...I've always found the pivot ball suspension with the soft t-plate to have more grip than the o-ring suspension. Currently running no lube on the damper discs. And the CRC 1/12th scale shock with the light weight black spring.

If I get a chance I'll try the o-ring suspension out.

Has anyone tried those Pit Shimzu medium rubber tires yet?
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Old 05-30-2010, 01:16 PM   #1236
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Interesting...I've always found the pivot ball suspension with the soft t-plate to have more grip than the o-ring suspension. Currently running no lube on the damper discs. And the CRC 1/12th scale shock with the light weight black spring.

If I get a chance I'll try the o-ring suspension out.

Has anyone tried those Pit Shimzu medium rubber tires yet?
Well I am running the pit tires since I want able to find any A or B compound tamiya tires and the pit med front / soft rear seems to be the best combo so far. I have also tried the TRG tires but they have stiffer sidewalls w/ less side bite.

The problem with the ball pivot rear suspension is that it eliminates all side load dampening unless you put tweak screws in that give it abrupt tension and breaking the car loose.

you will want a little lube on the damper dics to keep the movement smooth so it doesnt stick in spots as it moves. As for the crc shock it should work fine but 'm not sure what wt oil & spring would work out. If you have the std tamiya hop-up shock for the car throw it on with 30wt oil & 3hole psting & the std spring.

At out first race of the season our old 103s were clearly better than the 104s, F10s and F109s in the field.
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Old 05-30-2010, 01:25 PM   #1237
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Anybody ??
The camber steering blocks are nice, but the rest of the kit not so much.

The t-bar setup has a tendency to get sticky at the mount and the t-bar is too stiff. Liker the tamiya ball pivot, the yeah one just doesnt work as well at the std o-ring system.

When it comes to hop-ups I would recommend the carbon chassis, soft t-bar, yeah racing steering blocks, alloy motor mount, tamiya F1 shock, and the F104 Pro axle setup.

If you want to try something different the kawada conversion & rolling suspension kit look interesting.

Mark
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Old 05-31-2010, 12:28 AM   #1238
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Well I am running the pit tires since I want able to find any A or B compound tamiya tires and the pit med front / soft rear seems to be the best combo so far. I have also tried the TRG tires but they have stiffer sidewalls w/ less side bite.

The problem with the ball pivot rear suspension is that it eliminates all side load dampening unless you put tweak screws in that give it abrupt tension and breaking the car loose.

you will want a little lube on the damper dics to keep the movement smooth so it doesnt stick in spots as it moves. As for the crc shock it should work fine but 'm not sure what wt oil & spring would work out. If you have the std tamiya hop-up shock for the car throw it on with 30wt oil & 3hole psting & the std spring.

At out first race of the season our old 103s were clearly better than the 104s, F10s and F109s in the field.
I don't have any problems with it sticking...I'm running the really nice teflon damper discs so it is super smooth. Way back in the day even in 1/12th scale we used to run with no oil on the damper because our asphalt really has bad grip and that was the only way we could get much of any. My Tamiya shock needs a new top eyelet and I've had a hard time finding the part. The CRC is really smooth and I've actually got it sprung lighter than what you can get on the Tamiya to try and get grip.

Well the grip today with LiPo seemed better in general than it had in the last race but still not up to par with the F104s and F109s (Running F104 tires) so I'm thinking the problem is my old tires. Do you know anywhere that has the Pit tires and some rims to mount them on? I checked at RC mart and they had the Pit tires but the only rims they listed were for foam tires. I'm debating on the softness...I remember back in the day Tamiya and Ride tires weren't really a hard or soft tire but a hot or cold tire. A compound was good in the cooler weather while B compound was the tire for hotter weather. A tires while technically softer would get super greasy in hot weather so you would get no grip at all while Bs would be like driving rocks in the cold. So I'm thinking medium all around for the Pits.
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Old 05-31-2010, 07:21 AM   #1239
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Default Tire Wars

Tires are the key to grip for rubber on asphalt and it seems that every surface and condition likes different tires. In a recent parking lot race, I noticed that Ride super softs worked well on part of the track, but Tamiya soft options worked better for a couple of other corners. The choice comes down to which compromise fits your driving style.

I'm going to keep adding tire options as I can afford them and do a lot of practice testing at each track. Every time I've tried to predict which tire would be better, I was wrong.

Regarding setup, soft and flexible are the way to go for rubber on asphalt. Soft spring, light lube on bottom only, no extra weight, plenty of droop.
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Old 05-31-2010, 06:45 PM   #1240
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You can mount the pit tires on the tamiya foam rims, just be patient and they'll come out fine.

Mark
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Old 05-31-2010, 07:00 PM   #1241
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Cool.
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Old 06-01-2010, 10:44 AM   #1242
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Anybody running a 1/12 servo in your 103?
If so are you standing it up or mounting it normal with some shims under it?

A pic would be cool.
Thanks
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Old 06-01-2010, 11:52 PM   #1243
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Default F1 & 24 Minutes Le Mans at TQ Sat 5/6/2010

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Originally Posted by spring71 View Post
From this weekend, we will have Sunday Club Race.

We have UF1 Series on June 5th, Saturday.
11:00 doors open
1:30 sign ups end
2:00 first 10 minute qualifier (no more than 10 drivers per qual)
2:20 second qualifier

3:00 first 8 minute round (B group)
3:20 second 8 minute round (A group)

3:45 third 8 minute round (B group)
4:05 fourth 8 minute round (A group)

4:30 fifth 8 minute round (B group)
4:50 sixth 8 minute round (A group)
Cool! and we can run a Le Mans at the end of F1 so bring your cars!
I installed 21.5 in the "C" group hoping the battery will get me to the finish line.

This will be the our 2nd Le Mans run, bring your cars

Cheers!
Marcos
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Old 06-02-2010, 02:09 AM   #1244
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RIDE's tires and wheels are in stock now !!

Click here to check out.

You can order online @ www.tqrcracing.com

Thanks.
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Last edited by spring71; 06-02-2010 at 10:14 AM.
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Old 06-02-2010, 03:59 AM   #1245
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Originally Posted by j.d.roost View Post
Anybody running a 1/12 servo in your 103?
If so are you standing it up or mounting it normal with some shims under it?

A pic would be cool.
Thanks
JD-I'm running a 225 mounted a'la 12l (tilted back)-like Sharpies car was.
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