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Old 03-01-2010, 03:25 PM   #1021
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my bad I thought he was popping endbells--
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Old 03-01-2010, 03:36 PM   #1022
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Just need some advice; does anyone know what might cause this?

These are all tamiya parts except for the spur (kimbrough + HPI spur spacer). Something is causing the thrust race to rub on one side of the diff joint. As you would imagine the diff feels horrible in that particular spot (feels much like a tight-spot). Where would a likely suspect point be in this setup? Thanks

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I think Robk's right on this...looks like you have the wrong bearing or no bearing in the outside edge of the diff hub.
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Old 03-01-2010, 03:50 PM   #1023
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Make sure you tap the endbell tabs tight into their slots b/4 installing motor,and keep an eye on them.they loosen up w/left side wallbanging.
with the speeds @ Horsham it will happen on 540's.
Back in "the day"we used to allow 2 screws thru the can to secure the endbell.
Greets everyone,

I've been wondering what everyone is doing to their 540J motors to squeeze every gram of performance out of them. Any suggestions would be nice.

Cheerz
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Old 03-01-2010, 05:34 PM   #1024
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You also have to watch the motor temps. I have seen the comm move when the motor gets overheated, even without the wall shot.
Hmm good to know.
Thanks
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Old 03-02-2010, 01:40 PM   #1025
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Did Tamiya change the front knuckle pins to non e clip style?
Looks like you need to grub screw the knuckle to the pin now.
Does the spring get moved from under the arm (with e-clips) to in between the knuckle and the arm (inside)?
Hope that was a clear enough description.
Thanks
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Old 03-02-2010, 02:16 PM   #1026
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Did Tamiya change the front knuckle pins to non e clip style?
Looks like you need to grub screw the knuckle to the pin now.
Does the spring get moved from under the arm (with e-clips) to in between the knuckle and the arm (inside)?
Hope that was a clear enough description.
Thanks
There's a couple setups, RD kingpins, Super king pins, etc. The one from the 15th anniversary car has the e clips, and there is another that puts the spring on top of the knuckle and is shorter, but uses E clips. I think the RD king pin is the grub screw one, which is for those who live dangerously....
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Old 03-03-2010, 11:04 AM   #1027
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Hi guys, I am looking for Tamiya Type B for my F103 anyone have a set can let me know or can let me know where can I get them.
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Old 03-03-2010, 02:06 PM   #1028
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Type B what? Tires? Body?
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Old 03-03-2010, 04:05 PM   #1029
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Sorrry guys my bad. I looking for Tamiya Type B tires and rims set.
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Old 03-07-2010, 10:06 AM   #1030
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won my first race ever with the F103

i won by 4 laps per final

car was a F103 15th Anniversary
black front springs
Tamiya yellow rear spring
350 oil in the shock with 2 hole piston
medium grease on the middle plate
little toe out
ride height 3.0mm
Kit tyres
roll out of 35.5mm 104/22
10.5 SP v3.0 motor
EZrun speedo
full rear smear for 30mins and ľon the front for 20 mins with LRP carpet traction2

think that was it but if i have forgotten anything let me know and i will look

my fastest lap was a 15.049 the lap record for a Pro10 is only 14.5
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Old 03-07-2010, 11:50 AM   #1031
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Way to go, Phil

those SP v3 motors are pretty sweet

what other chassis were you running against??
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Old 03-07-2010, 12:09 PM   #1032
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Sauber C13 from 1995 using a C12 model



More pictures in the "F1 discussion" topic

1/10 R/C F1's...Pics, Discussions, Whatever...
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Old 03-07-2010, 12:32 PM   #1033
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Way to go, Phil

those SP v3 motors are pretty sweet

what other chassis were you running against??
there was 3 F103s and 1 F104

i was trying the F1-09 but the Tamiya 15th Anniversary chassis is the nicest of them all for me , want to try outdoors but dont want to scratch the chassis
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Old 03-07-2010, 03:15 PM   #1034
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Good win.
Thanks for posting your setup.
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Old 03-09-2010, 12:30 AM   #1035
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This F103 #11 Honda "Camel" gets down with this #4 Ferrari !!!
Enjoy.
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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