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Old 02-21-2010, 04:52 AM   #1006
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This ride is for sale is any of you guys are interested.



http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ml#post7034631
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Old 02-21-2010, 12:09 PM   #1007
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i broke my left side rear axle mount today

tapped by someone else into the barrier

GRRRR not available

sooo i ordered the one from TRG , the alloy one piece motor mount/axle mount
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Old 02-21-2010, 12:30 PM   #1008
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Hello all,

Is there a way to mount a servo on the F103 15th anniv. without cutting the servo ears off. I don't like the servo tape method that tamiya suggests. Perhaps there is a way to mount the servo flat. Any suggestions appreciated.

Cheerz
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Old 02-21-2010, 01:44 PM   #1009
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Originally Posted by Obsidian View Post
Hello all,

Is there a way to mount a servo on the F103 15th anniv. without cutting the servo ears off. I don't like the servo tape method that tamiya suggests. Perhaps there is a way to mount the servo flat. Any suggestions appreciated.

Cheerz
Not to my knowledge - the F103 bodies aren't wide enough to handle the servo laid down

if you're concerned about tape, try shoe-goo...that willhokd your servothru pretty much EVERYTHING!!!!
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Old 02-21-2010, 09:10 PM   #1010
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Rough outing for me today at West Coast Raceway, lost the handle of the car and the driver. sorry

Hard to keep a grip when the car goes from great to junk.

Hurt a lot of parts these past couple days, found most but some are ridiculously hard to find.

TCS comin up this weekend and I'm lookin for help in finding an F103 gearbox, mainly just the cross piece to mount the friction plate.

Also need a front upright/spring post with 3 clip grooves.

Any tips would be much appreciated.
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Old 02-21-2010, 11:35 PM   #1011
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Just need some advice; does anyone know what might cause this?

These are all tamiya parts except for the spur (kimbrough + HPI spur spacer). Something is causing the thrust race to rub on one side of the diff joint. As you would imagine the diff feels horrible in that particular spot (feels much like a tight-spot). Where would a likely suspect point be in this setup? Thanks

Cheers
Daniel
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Old 02-22-2010, 03:43 AM   #1012
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Just need some advice; does anyone know what might cause this?

These are all tamiya parts except for the spur (kimbrough + HPI spur spacer). Something is causing the thrust race to rub on one side of the diff joint. As you would imagine the diff feels horrible in that particular spot (feels much like a tight-spot). Where would a likely suspect point be in this setup? Thanks

Cheers
Daniel
does your thrust bearing cleanly side onto that shaft? i know some times the tolerances are off just a smidge and you'll get marks like that..also could be that the thrust bearing is shot - sometimes the slightest touches kill them

I'd pull the thrust bearing out and check that first
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Old 02-22-2010, 11:29 PM   #1013
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Hello everyone,

Just curious if everyone is rounding the edges and gluing the chassis edges on their F103's.

Cheerz
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Old 02-26-2010, 01:07 AM   #1014
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Hello everyone,

Just curious if everyone is rounding the edges and gluing the chassis edges on their F103's.

Cheerz
i used a piece of sandpaper only on the edges of the bottom deck then superglued all the edges ,

how do you keep the battery in place on the 15th anniversary ??

i used some double sided tape to the top deck ???
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Old 02-26-2010, 01:48 PM   #1015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gramm View Post
Just need some advice; does anyone know what might cause this?

These are all tamiya parts except for the spur (kimbrough + HPI spur spacer). Something is causing the thrust race to rub on one side of the diff joint. As you would imagine the diff feels horrible in that particular spot (feels much like a tight-spot). Where would a likely suspect point be in this setup? Thanks

Cheers
Daniel
Is the outer bearing the correct size? It looks like the ID is too big for the axle??
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Old 02-26-2010, 02:36 PM   #1016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sidecarphil1 View Post
i used a piece of sandpaper only on the edges of the bottom deck then superglued all the edges ,

how do you keep the battery in place on the 15th anniversary ??

i used some double sided tape to the top deck ???
strapping tape

@obsidian - you would be wise to at least seal all edges w/ glue
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Old 03-01-2010, 06:17 AM   #1017
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Is anyone else having a problem with their 540j motors pushing the com back (effectively destroying the motor ) after a smack or two into the wall?

I don't know what is causing this to happen but I am on my 3rd motor that did this.
Thanks for the help.
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Old 03-01-2010, 06:34 AM   #1018
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Fairly common occurrence, I've seen that happen to a few cars at our local track.
That motor is not built to take hard hits into walls.
BL 21.5 is what most of us are running around here now.
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Old 03-01-2010, 12:53 PM   #1019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j.d.roost View Post
Is anyone else having a problem with their 540j motors pushing the com back (effectively destroying the motor ) after a smack or two into the wall?

I don't know what is causing this to happen but I am on my 3rd motor that did this.
Thanks for the help.
Make sure you tap the endbell tabs tight into their slots b/4 installing motor,and keep an eye on them.they loosen up w/left side wallbanging.
with the speeds @ Horsham it will happen on 540's.
Back in "the day"we used to allow 2 screws thru the can to secure the endbell.
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Old 03-01-2010, 02:45 PM   #1020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j.d.roost View Post
Is anyone else having a problem with their 540j motors pushing the com back (effectively destroying the motor ) after a smack or two into the wall?

I don't know what is causing this to happen but I am on my 3rd motor that did this.
Thanks for the help.
You also have to watch the motor temps. I have seen the comm move when the motor gets overheated, even without the wall shot.
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