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Old 02-17-2010, 04:35 PM   #976
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I think the hpi sealed 20t is about = to a good 27t stocker like a cobalt.
I ran a 19t checkpoint in a 103 and it was pretty silly in the twisties.
But this past weekend @ Horsham 1 guy had a 17.5/2s in our class of silvercans,and he wasn't that much faster on the infield-but on the 90' straight------he was ----- he swore he had his spx set on profile 1
plus he was a very good driver.We usually are only 1-1.5 sec a lap off of the 17.5 rubber TC class in lap times.Gotta love a $12 motor.
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Old 02-17-2010, 06:25 PM   #977
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I know that feeling. We have a joke with one of the guys who runs with us. He's put the 17 turn Tamiya brushless in his car. Through the infield, no problems, but on the straight, the guys around him simply yell "TURBO!"...

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I think the hpi sealed 20t is about = to a good 27t stocker like a cobalt.
I ran a 19t checkpoint in a 103 and it was pretty silly in the twisties.
But this past weekend @ Horsham 1 guy had a 17.5/2s in our class of silvercans,and he wasn't that much faster on the infield-but on the 90' straight------he was ----- he swore he had his spx set on profile 1
plus he was a very good driver.We usually are only 1-1.5 sec a lap off of the 17.5 rubber TC class in lap times.Gotta love a $12 motor.
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Old 02-17-2010, 08:55 PM   #978
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Hallo everyone,

What are you guys doing to the silver cans to make them crazy fast?

Cheerz
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Old 02-17-2010, 09:32 PM   #979
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Hallo everyone,

What are you guys doing to the silver cans to make them crazy fast?

Cheerz
Oh no he just dih' int!
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Old 02-17-2010, 10:41 PM   #980
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Step 1: buy neo magnets ............
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Old 02-18-2010, 03:11 AM   #981
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... something wrong with the spring washers that put the pressure on the thrust washers. Over time these spring washers go flat and no longer work properly ...
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Originally Posted by F N CUDA View Post
What method do you use to set your diff?
Will your diff stop slipping if you tighten it, are you trying to run it loose?
Put it on the track, punch it, if it slips tighten it, if it won't tighten you have something wrong. Put fresh spur gear, diff balls and rings $10 and fresh thrust bearing $5 more. Repeat adjustment process Newly freshened diff, PRICELESS ...
I try to tighten them up as much as possible without the car spinning out coming out of a turn.

Could be over geared as well. Am using pinion 18T with 63T spur. My 16T pinion is in the post. I have tried 14T as well and was a bit slow at the end of the staright.

My spring washers are a bit old they do somethimes flip the other way if i tighten them up too much which is why i try my best to tighten them up without 'flipping them'

I am going to order some from HK (i presume they are 5mm spring washers)???
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Old 02-18-2010, 07:03 AM   #982
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One very nice setup is the 104 alloy diff. You will need the diff.set and a 104 rear axle. No more wheel loaded thrust bearing!
It's so nice to be able to rotate my rear tires.
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Old 02-18-2010, 07:08 AM   #983
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BTW.. Is Tamiya for real that you cant use 104 parts on a 103 for a "Tamiya" event??

Alot of the 103 parts are no longer available or very hard to find (like the 103carbon axle). With 104 parts that bolt right up I don't see a problem.
I would think a bit of flexing of the rules are in need here.
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Old 02-18-2010, 08:10 AM   #984
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BTW.. Is Tamiya for real that you cant use 104 parts on a 103 for a "Tamiya" event??

Alot of the 103 parts are no longer available or very hard to find (like the 103carbon axle). With 104 parts that bolt right up I don't see a problem.
I would think a bit of flexing of the rules are in need here.
From what I understand, the F104 axle/diff is a hop up option offered for both the F104 AND F103 and is legal for TCS events whereas the gearbox is only an option for the F104.

Found it, QUOTE from Fred M. :

A. The F103 may use the F104 diff housing and carbon axle. It's a Hop Op for either car.

B. The F103 may only use the F103 aluminum or stock motor pd parts. The F104 one may not be used.

FM
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Last edited by F N CUDA; 02-18-2010 at 08:28 AM. Reason: found ruling on 104 diff/axle
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Old 02-18-2010, 08:19 AM   #985
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I try to tighten them up as much as possible without the car spinning out coming out of a turn.

Could be over geared as well. Am using pinion 18T with 63T spur. My 16T pinion is in the post. I have tried 14T as well and was a bit slow at the end of the staright.

My spring washers are a bit old they do somethimes flip the other way if i tighten them up too much which is why i try my best to tighten them up without 'flipping them'

I am going to order some from HK (i presume they are 5mm spring washers)???
Not sure why the spring washers would flip inside out.

That seems as tho it would take a lot of torque to do that.

I don't think the diff should slip at all when punching from a dead stop, correct?
If you use it as a slipper clutch it's only good for a couple seconds and it's toast.
A good diff is butter smooth and will stay that way a long time unless you let it slip.

My understanding is to keep it as loose as possible with 0 slippage.

If your car is spinning out after that, you have traction issues. No?

If you can't get the diff to keep from slipping there is definately a problem with parts of the diff assembly.

Anyone else have different views or added input on this?
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Old 02-18-2010, 11:31 AM   #986
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I've never seen a spring washer so worn out that it flips direction. That is super worn out and if it is that bad the thrust washers and bearing probably need replacing as well. I'd say it's time for a complete diff rebuild.
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Old 02-18-2010, 12:33 PM   #987
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Obsidian View Post
Hallo everyone,

What are you guys doing to the silver cans to make them crazy fast?

Cheerz
ez
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Old 02-18-2010, 12:49 PM   #988
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Quote:
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ez
the ol' 'dunk the motor in water' trip

that's the simpliest and most well known trick
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Old 02-18-2010, 01:27 PM   #989
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i ran mine in for 40 hrs on 2A

fastest M03 at the track
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Old 02-18-2010, 01:35 PM   #990
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i ran mine in for 40 hrs on 2A

fastest M03 at the track
wow.....
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