Tamiya F103 Forum
#826
HELP
i have been painting my F103 body tonight and i come to remove the overspray cover from the outside AND . . . . . . there isnt one
now i have a M style body that is destroyed i think , is there any thing i can use to remove the paint ??
or is there 100% an overspray cover that i just cant get off ???
cheeRS Phil
i have been painting my F103 body tonight and i come to remove the overspray cover from the outside AND . . . . . . there isnt one
now i have a M style body that is destroyed i think , is there any thing i can use to remove the paint ??
or is there 100% an overspray cover that i just cant get off ???
cheeRS Phil
#827
It seems that you were excited about painting your new F1 body, that you forgot to read the instructions. You can still save the body, but it will be alot of work to clean, depending on how much overspray that has to be removed. I use TESTORS Enamel Thinner (1148) to clean up overspray. To regain that shine, try using a modeler's rubbing compound or shoe polish, as long as it's safe for lexan. You might want to try a sample of shoe polish on a piece of lexan first. Hope this helps.
#828
#829
i have
#830
#831
yeah i know i was SOOOOOO shocked that there was none GRR
and no head for the driver WTF
i bought the most expensave F103 i could the 15th Anniversary kit and no front body mount !!!
i buy a body and no screws for the rear wing , no head and no instructions !!!
i am pissed with Tamiya now GRR
and no head for the driver WTF
i bought the most expensave F103 i could the 15th Anniversary kit and no front body mount !!!
i buy a body and no screws for the rear wing , no head and no instructions !!!
i am pissed with Tamiya now GRR
#832
What you ended up buying is just the CLEAR body by itself. You should have bought this instead.
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=84024
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=84024
#833
is there a way to convert the f103gt to an F1 car? all the help is appreciated.
#834
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
HELP
i have been painting my F103 body tonight and i come to remove the overspray cover from the outside AND . . . . . . there isnt one
now i have a M style body that is destroyed i think , is there any thing i can use to remove the paint ??
or is there 100% an overspray cover that i just cant get off ???
cheeRS Phil
i have been painting my F103 body tonight and i come to remove the overspray cover from the outside AND . . . . . . there isnt one
now i have a M style body that is destroyed i think , is there any thing i can use to remove the paint ??
or is there 100% an overspray cover that i just cant get off ???
cheeRS Phil
#835
i managed to save the body using soft nail polish remover
i tested on a small part of the nose cone first and it was ok
thanks for the replies guys
i have mailed RCmushroom about my complaints and i hope they will contact Tamiya for me and see if i get a reply from them !!!
just waiting for my Jordan F1 stickers to clear the Dutch customs system in about 6 months
i tested on a small part of the nose cone first and it was ok
thanks for the replies guys
i have mailed RCmushroom about my complaints and i hope they will contact Tamiya for me and see if i get a reply from them !!!
just waiting for my Jordan F1 stickers to clear the Dutch customs system in about 6 months
#836
Been busy with the stickers and paint
i think it looks AWSOME
#837
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (8)
Starting you need the chassis plate due to the way the front wing nests into the plate.
and these parts too:
front suspension
front bearings
front steering knuckles
king pins
left rear hub
right rear diff housing
wheel set
front tires
rear tires
rear body mounts
front body mount
body set including f & r wings
#838
#839
F1 Race Info. Sunday 11/29 at WCRC
Let's see thouse F103
UF1 Format changes for Sunday Nov. 29
We will be running the same Super Qual + 3 mains at WCRC on Sunday with the following changes:
Rubber and foam run together. The story is that this track will hook up with foam as well as rubber. Bring it. Race it. Prove it.
Chassis/Motor rules:
Direct rear wheel drive 1/10 scale open wheel car (F1 style)
540 sized motors silver can, black can, TCS 32 turn, or 21.5BL
SQ
Due to popular demand, qualifier will be open track instead of multiple 2 minute groups. Just put your car down and drive as fast as you can. We will limit the number of drivers on the track at any given time to 5 or less. After 4-5 minutes time will be called and drivers will pull aside for the next 5 drivers. Qualifying order will be randomly determined (but you can swap with anyone who is willing). If we have 15 or more drivers, the qualifying time will be extended beyond 15 minutes. Drivers might have an opportunity to make a second run at a fast lap if we have enough time and open slots.
Three things to think about for the SQ.
1) Time will be limited between the SQ and the first main to recharge batteries or cool you motor
2) Fast qualifier gets an extra point added to his/her score (yes, it does make a difference)
3) Grid order of first main will be based upon fast lap in the SQ
If we have a turnout of 14 or less drivers, we will run one group all together.
If we have 15 or more we will try something different for DNF and DNS drivers from the higher main groups. If you are in the A group and can not make the grid (DNS) or complete 8 laps (DNF) you will have an opportunity to run at the back of the B group. Although you will receive no score for that round, a good run with the B group can place you in the A group for the next round. If you are in the last group and DNF or DNS TL (tough luck).
OTHER THINGS TO CONSIDER:
Doors open at 10
Sign in closes and drivers meeting at 11
SQ at 11:30
Third round HAS to be done before 3:00 for off road, so this will be very fast paced if we end up with two race groups
Track will be open practice between rounds
SoCal UF1 scoring format (ask if you don't know where to find it)
UF1 Format changes for Sunday Nov. 29
We will be running the same Super Qual + 3 mains at WCRC on Sunday with the following changes:
Rubber and foam run together. The story is that this track will hook up with foam as well as rubber. Bring it. Race it. Prove it.
Chassis/Motor rules:
Direct rear wheel drive 1/10 scale open wheel car (F1 style)
540 sized motors silver can, black can, TCS 32 turn, or 21.5BL
SQ
Due to popular demand, qualifier will be open track instead of multiple 2 minute groups. Just put your car down and drive as fast as you can. We will limit the number of drivers on the track at any given time to 5 or less. After 4-5 minutes time will be called and drivers will pull aside for the next 5 drivers. Qualifying order will be randomly determined (but you can swap with anyone who is willing). If we have 15 or more drivers, the qualifying time will be extended beyond 15 minutes. Drivers might have an opportunity to make a second run at a fast lap if we have enough time and open slots.
Three things to think about for the SQ.
1) Time will be limited between the SQ and the first main to recharge batteries or cool you motor
2) Fast qualifier gets an extra point added to his/her score (yes, it does make a difference)
3) Grid order of first main will be based upon fast lap in the SQ
If we have a turnout of 14 or less drivers, we will run one group all together.
If we have 15 or more we will try something different for DNF and DNS drivers from the higher main groups. If you are in the A group and can not make the grid (DNS) or complete 8 laps (DNF) you will have an opportunity to run at the back of the B group. Although you will receive no score for that round, a good run with the B group can place you in the A group for the next round. If you are in the last group and DNF or DNS TL (tough luck).
OTHER THINGS TO CONSIDER:
Doors open at 10
Sign in closes and drivers meeting at 11
SQ at 11:30
Third round HAS to be done before 3:00 for off road, so this will be very fast paced if we end up with two race groups
Track will be open practice between rounds
SoCal UF1 scoring format (ask if you don't know where to find it)