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Old 05-29-2009, 04:58 PM   #706
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Pics of the new body... yes I know, the rear wing is not correct
I allways liked the FW18 Williams body.

I happen to have a NIB, unpainted FW18 body set complete with decals if any one is interested. Just PM me....
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Old 05-29-2009, 05:06 PM   #707
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I allways liked the FW18 Williams body.

I happen to have a NIB, unpainted FW18 body set complete with decals if any one is interested. Just PM me....
and just what else do you have stashed away Marty?
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Old 05-29-2009, 08:23 PM   #708
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Hey John! Whats the body to run in f103? I just got a special edition f103 and need HELP!
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Old 05-29-2009, 08:26 PM   #709
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Hey John! Whats the body to run in f103? I just got a special edition f103 and need HELP!
you have a PM
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Old 05-29-2009, 10:07 PM   #710
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Default First Annual Ultimate F1 Series Day

So if your an F1 fan, you will love this...

http://www.charleslightfoot.com/UF1SD.html
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Old 05-30-2009, 10:55 PM   #711
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and just what else do you have stashed away Marty?

John,

I currently have 12 NIB Tamiya F-103 body sets in stock and tons of spare parts.

PM if you need something. The wife has placed her foot squarely on the floor and would like to see the overall inventory reduced....lol

If Momma ain't, ain't nobody happy!
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Old 06-17-2009, 09:47 AM   #712
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Hoping to get some advice from anyone w/ the f103 special edition... I built my loose cells up and taped them in but I have noticed there is a gap between the bottom of the cells and the top of the chassis. Manual recommends taping to the "wings" on the upper deck, but this pulls my 4300maH NiMHs off the top of the chassis.

Don't worry about it?

Also, I built my stick battery w/ the cells sitting side by side (batt bars) instead of end to end... I want to change it over, do ya' just heat up the solder and quickly "butt" the next cell up to it before it cools?

TIA
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Old 06-17-2009, 10:08 AM   #713
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Don't worry about the cells...that is how our Lipos sit too.

On the battery pack configuration....I always used to use the Trinity stick pack kit. Others use a flat tip on their soldering irons and do what you described...get the cells close and heat and push together.
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Originally Posted by downtempo View Post
Hoping to get some advice from anyone w/ the f103 special edition... I built my loose cells up and taped them in but I have noticed there is a gap between the bottom of the cells and the top of the chassis. Manual recommends taping to the "wings" on the upper deck, but this pulls my 4300maH NiMHs off the top of the chassis.

Don't worry about it?

Also, I built my stick battery w/ the cells sitting side by side (batt bars) instead of end to end... I want to change it over, do ya' just heat up the solder and quickly "butt" the next cell up to it before it cools?

TIA
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Old 06-17-2009, 10:34 AM   #714
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On my upper deck I took some scrap CF, made two shim blocks a little wider that the home down tape and glued them to the underside. I then sanded the blocks until there is just a little gap between the battery and the lower deck.
Having the weight down low is always better.
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Old 07-02-2009, 08:02 AM   #715
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I wore a groove into my diff plates after 2 races (almost 3, radio failure ) and 2 practice days... ceramic upgrade or no big deal? Diff adjust was @ barely able to spin spur w/ both wheels held, 'bout the same as everyone else in the pits.

TIA
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Old 07-02-2009, 08:46 AM   #716
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I wore a groove into my diff plates after 2 races (almost 3, radio failure ) and 2 practice days... ceramic upgrade or no big deal? Diff adjust was @ barely able to spin spur w/ both wheels held, 'bout the same as everyone else in the pits.

TIA
I notice a circular line ( groove ) in my diff plate after one race... I also tighten my diff in the same way... when I switched to ceramic balls it did seem to make the diff smoother... I think the groove is normal... use 400 grit sandpaper to get ride of that annoying groove...
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Old 07-03-2009, 05:25 AM   #717
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Hey everyone


just wondering which tamiya F103 chassie to get?

F103GT? F103LM? F103RM.... etc etc

i want to run a Le Mans body

your imput would be much app

regards
James
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Old 07-03-2009, 06:59 AM   #718
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I would go for the F103RM. The LM is hard to find these days. and the 103GT is more for use of 190-200mm bodies.

all you will need to run leman shells is the front bumper. about $10-$15 part.
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Old 07-03-2009, 07:16 AM   #719
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I have noticed that the front tires are wearing unevenly. Are there any hopups to the front end that would give me some adjustability? (ride height, camber, caster) This is my first time in F1 cars and I have to admit they are great ars to run.
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Old 07-03-2009, 12:18 PM   #720
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I have noticed that the front tires are wearing unevenly. Are there any hopups to the front end that would give me some adjustability? (ride height, camber, caster) This is my first time in F1 cars and I have to admit they are great ars to run.
3 racing makes a front end with camber and caster adjustment.

http://3racing.hk/products.php?products_key=3398
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