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Old 12-04-2001, 05:28 PM   #496
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Eh, not necessarily. Look into the battery pod and you should see some hardware around the pivot point if you have the pivotball pod. There are 4 small screws holding a plastic plate down and an aircraft nut above that on each side of the battery pod. If you have that stufff, you have the pivot ball setup. If there is a single bolt coming up from the t-plate with an aircraft nut on it, you have the o-ring pivot. Another dead giveaway is the shape of the battery "doors." If your battery "doors" are rounded, like they would contour to fit a stick pack, you have the pivot ball pod. If they are squared and flat on the inside where the edge of the battery pack touches, you have the standard battery pod. I'll post pictures so you can see what I'm talking about. Dunno how clearly you'll be able to see it, though.
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Old 12-04-2001, 05:42 PM   #497
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i think i have the normal one. since i have 2 screws both on the cneter line of the chassis (Front to back). and none on the side that dont go into the pod itself.

also since tower doesnt have it, where could i get it? does mdi racing stock all of the tamiya hop ups? and does the cross chassis fit the tamiya?

finally, would a l30 rear pod and everything fit the f1?
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Old 12-04-2001, 09:25 PM   #498
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OK guys. Here's the pix.

This is a look inside the pivot ball battery pod.

This is the battery door from the pivot ball pod. OK, I have fat fingers...

This is a look inside the standard battery pod of my RS

This is the battery door from the standard pod.


Here's my F103RS with the FRP top deck

This is my TRF car with the F-type chassis. top view

Bottom view

And a close up of the top deck of the TRF car.
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Old 12-04-2001, 09:29 PM   #499
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stormperson

Try MDI for the stuff you can't find. If it can be had, new, anywhere in the US, Les will find it for you. Just send him an email from their website. www.mdiracing.com Dunno about the other 2 questions, though. Spooky can probably comment on the Cross chassis, since he has one.
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Old 12-05-2001, 04:26 AM   #500
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ya i am pretty sure that i have the normal one then, looking at those pics. but thank you very much for taking the time to get them. i will email mdi about upgrades, hopefully they will have them (since they only specified cross ones on their websites, and a few tamiyas)
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Old 12-05-2001, 09:02 AM   #501
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Psycho,

What happened to your aluminum Post for your TRF LM?? Also, what's the thing the is sticking out at the right of the battery holder? a transponder mount???

so which one works better??? the LM top plate? or the F1 top plate?
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Old 12-05-2001, 09:04 AM   #502
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Psycho,

So what's the tire you are using on your TRF car??? it doesn't look like tamiya's slick...
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Old 12-05-2001, 09:11 AM   #503
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TRF-Powered

I'm not sure what you mean by "aluminum post." The thing sticking up off the battery pod is the antenna. I run the side mount antenna because that's what the Reynard body is set up for. It's the Kose fiberglass roll antenna. It's pretty nice and doesn't seem to add much weight up top. The small piece of lexan above the front suspension pivot point is my transponder mount. I haven't noticed much difference between the LM top plate and the shorter CF top plate. It's less hardware with the LM top plate, so I use that one. The tires on the TRF car are Ride's grooved tires. I used them the last time I raced the car. Generally I run foams, but at the last couple races, the weather was changing a lot throughout the day and I had the most consistant results from rubber tires.
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Old 12-05-2001, 09:27 AM   #504
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what I mean is the body post for the TRF car, doens't it come with the aluminum one with your TRF car? I notice that you are using the plastic one.

By the way, how is the servo mounted on the F1 car? just with double sided tape?
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Old 12-05-2001, 10:28 AM   #505
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Oh, ok. The TRF car comes with alum body posts, but they are too tall for the body I run, so I use the plastic ones. It's also a little tricky to install a hi-nose body with the side mount antenna, so the plastic ones bend a little, making it easier to install. The foam pieces stop the body from rattling around. The servo is mounted on the single plastic mount with servo tape, just like in the RS car. I've never had a problem with this method of mounting it. Every few runs, I check the servo to make sure it's still secure, but have never found it to be loose. If you don't have adjustable steering endpoints on your radio, you should probably look at a different mounting arangement, or better yet, get a better radio!
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Old 12-05-2001, 01:32 PM   #506
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Revelation Raceway is having their GrandOpening race this saturday. Lets try and get an F1 race going. Will be there racing Sedans, but will also have the F1 close by too.
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Old 12-05-2001, 02:07 PM   #507
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OSherman

That's cool. I hope you have good weather and a great F1 turnout.
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Old 12-06-2001, 06:59 PM   #508
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Stormperson....

I will check the Cross chassis side by side with the tamiya next time I go by the shop. I know he has a FRP tamiya chassis as well as the Carbon Cross one hanging on the wall. Even though not all of the parts are on the web site, most of them are either in stock, or Les will get them for you.

BTW Psycho.. the Cross car just keeps on getting better. There are some hop ups I would suggest right from the start, but man it handles like a dream, I can always get under the Tamiya cars in the fast sweepers.
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Old 12-07-2001, 09:30 AM   #509
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spooky

I'm staring to get all wooded up over the Cross car. A buddy just bought his yesterday and I was looking through his instructions. Then, of course, I had to go and get the latest ExtremeRC mag with the review. in it. I ended up buying a MiniZ instead for racing around in the office. The must have hopups that I could see are the aluminum cantelever plates for the front and maybe the alum rear pod sides. What else do you suggest? Just doing a little homework before the spring!
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Old 12-07-2001, 04:32 PM   #510
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Psycho..... the hops I would suggest are as follows

1. Bearing Set.... bummer it does not come with all of them
2. Aluminum front hinge pin mount.
3. Ti Trailing arm links
4. Aluminum Motro Mount Set
5. Ti cantilever turnbuckles


I have the first 4... am planning on getting the rest of the stinkin hops. I will tell ya as I get them.

#2 is critical if you are run at a place with boards or non-movable barriers. The stock front plastic one is the weakest link.....

The thing I have learned about this car, performance has it price... the front end is a dream, but has more parts to break than a tamiya. That being said, I love my cross, and would suggest it to anyone.
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