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Old 10-15-2001, 11:19 PM   #271
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Default Spur gear

Psycho

Thank you for your help. But I do need the part # if possible. I am in Singapore and this item is not in stock here. Therefore I would require the exact part no to make an order online. can you recommend me some sites to buy the spurs. Thanks


[
melvin

Kimbrough makes a 48 pitch 75T spurgear for F1 cars. It says on the package that it's for Cross and Tamiya F1 cars. Sorry, I don't have the part#, but your lhs should have them. Depending on the motor you're running and track layout, I'd go anywhere from 12T to 15T pinion. I run a P2K Pro with the 12/75 combo, but I don't need the top end. You should get around 10 min runtime with matched 2400's. [/B][/QUOTE]
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Old 10-16-2001, 10:26 AM   #272
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Great news guys, I check out Kimbrough's web page and got a full list of the gears they make for Tamiya F1 cars. This link will take you straight there. Just click on the "Tamiya Gears" link once you get there.

http://www.kimbrough-products.com/index2.htm

It has gears in both 48 and 64 pitch specifically for the Tamiya F1 cars just like the 75tooth one that Psycho told us about. Except theres a lot more of them. Check it out.
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Old 10-16-2001, 10:38 AM   #273
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melvin: When you go to order any of these be sure to stick the "KIM" in front of the part #.

For example: for the 64 pitch 100 tooth spur, it would be-part# KIM263

I'm heading out to the lhs today to order the 64 pitch 100 tooth spur or the 48 pitch 75 tooth spur. I'll be running the car on carpet indoors so I don't think I will need an extra spur.

I hope this helps you with your ordering.
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Last edited by Darkseid; 10-16-2001 at 10:42 AM.
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Old 10-16-2001, 08:01 PM   #274
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Hey guys, please help me out here.

My race on sunday was terrible, went to first qualify and my car was so slow....dont know why so I just forget about the second and third qualify and I left out the race too...just couldnt compete with them...

I don't know what was wrong, i checked everything on the car, but the speed was just not up there. I re-set my ESC over and over again but no luck, i was using the First model Cyclone, so i change to another ESC, but same thing, still not fast...i dont know...something is just holding it back...

My batteries should be OK, they're 1700 and 2000...last week running it was alrite, but that sunday was just terrible...the radio is fine...

I'm only thinking about something is wrong with the motor...but i got it new and only run it like 15-20 times or so...is this the problem....now, when i turn on the car, the motor wont even turn now...

Also, will the Power Capacitor on the Cyclone "eats" up the battery? I was so frustrating that day that i want to sell all my stuff...

Anybody could help me on this?
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Old 10-16-2001, 08:04 PM   #275
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Sounds like you did a good job troubleshooting...

This sounds like your brushes are bad. Have someone at your track true the com for you and put some new brushes in. Your motor should run like new. 20 runs on a stock motor is a lot, so I think it is time for a rebuild.

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Old 10-16-2001, 08:13 PM   #276
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oh no, mine motor is the 540RS motor....so it has to be the motor that is slowing me down right

I saw ppl at the race that day uses some real car's brake pad spray's to spray it inside the motor, will that clean it

Or do I have to buy a new 540motor?
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Old 10-16-2001, 08:24 PM   #277
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you can use a stock lathe to cut the comm on that motor. If you can't find anyone to cut it, then just try putting a new set f brushes in it. Brake cleaner will work fine to clean the motor out, but you still should change the brushes. Brushes don't last as long of the motor, so they need to be changed every once in a while.
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Old 10-16-2001, 08:26 PM   #278
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Try a different motor. It sounds like a motor problem. BTW were you using the black or silver can motor.
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Old 10-16-2001, 08:28 PM   #279
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Quote:
Originally posted by Odie
you can use a stock lathe to cut the comm on that motor. If you can't find anyone to cut it, then just try putting a new set f brushes in it. Brake cleaner will work fine to clean the motor out, but you still should change the brushes. Brushes don't last as long of the motor, so they need to be changed every once in a while.
Its a sealed enbell motor, there is no access to the brushes or con, so there is no way to cut the com.
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Old 10-16-2001, 08:33 PM   #280
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ah yes, I forgot about that...lol
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Old 10-16-2001, 08:39 PM   #281
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so you pulled out of race because you were too slow? Man I thought you pulled out because of some major tech problem. When you tried it out at the end the motor still looks like it's moving.

well you better solve this problem because this is like the second time the motor gone sour.

maybe you forgot to break in the motor and to take care of it which might have ruin it. or th motor is too hot to burn up the comm?
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Old 10-16-2001, 08:39 PM   #282
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The black can 540RS Sport Tuned Motor...

Man, then that is lucky then....better then some electronic failing....i was so worried that it was something wrong with my Radio...

My Cyclone hopfully will still work...
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Old 10-16-2001, 08:42 PM   #283
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Ah, the black can motor, I've never had any luck with those. You have to very carefully with gearing and heat or they will melt down internally. Try a different motor, your cyclone should be just fine.
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Old 10-17-2001, 02:45 PM   #284
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OK, i hope my cyclone is not the problem...hopfully...

So the problem has to be the motor right?
but it was running strong last week....just suddenly happened
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Old 10-17-2001, 03:23 PM   #285
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Anybody know which kind of rubber tires work best for an F103 on ozite?

We will be running stock motors (P2K, GM3, MVP etc) in a 5-minute class on ozite. TQ traction compounds are legal.

The rubber tires are expensive, I want to try and get whatever works right off the bat rather than ending up with a bunch of useless tires like I do with my sedan...
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