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Old 10-14-2001, 05:15 AM   #256
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ok this guy "Odie" look at the trading forum...he is selling 2 kyosho F1 electric cars. Are those better than the F103rx I see in tower hobbies?
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Old 10-14-2001, 06:07 AM   #257
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TambokGT, check your PM
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Old 10-15-2001, 02:06 PM   #258
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Hey guys, I just got a F103RS used. Do any of you know where I can get my hands on a manual for the chassis? I need one before I do any serious work on the car.
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Old 10-15-2001, 02:37 PM   #259
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What do u need to know?
i could help u with that...
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Old 10-15-2001, 02:59 PM   #260
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Well the car has the pivot rear suspension, but it seems kind of lose. Is this normal? I tried turning the nut on the slipper pad post down to tighten up the action, like I used to on the old Kyosho car, but the whole post rotates unless I hole the bottom of it. Even then the pads still seemed a little lose. Keep in mind that my only experience with this type of car(pan car style) is with the old Kyosho chassis which did not use pivot style on the rear plate.

That was my only real question, aside from that I would like to have a manual so that I can understand everything about the car, including how Tamiya does the diffs compared to the Kyosho car.
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Old 10-15-2001, 03:03 PM   #261
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if you have the same Kyosho car as I have, the diff on the Kyosho is a gear diff and the Tamiya is a ball diff.

Jody
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Old 10-15-2001, 03:05 PM   #262
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Odie,

Nice Avitar
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Old 10-15-2001, 03:06 PM   #263
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lol!
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Old 10-15-2001, 03:08 PM   #264
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Darkside,

It is normal for the post to turn while turning the adjuster nut, unless you are holding it from the bottom. The pivot ball suspension is quite free to start with. You can also add tweak screws to the from pivot ball to adjsut handling as well.
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Old 10-15-2001, 05:07 PM   #265
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dcracer: The guy I bought it from already added the tweak screws. I'm not even going to think about messing with that yet. The car was pretty tricked out, so it has most of the hopups.

The motion of the pivot ball rear pod is foriegn to me, when it moves one way or another, it doesn't spring back to center, it just stays where its at. Again this is quite different from my old F1, which had a standard T-plate rear pod. Keep in mind that I haven't put the motor or electronics in yet, I'm just looking it over and cleaning it up. My only concern is the action of the rear pod and the spring post with the disk on it. Its be a while since I dealt with this type of car so, I'm not sure whats typical and whats not. I guess I should put the electronics and stuff in before I start worrying about tuning.
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Old 10-15-2001, 07:10 PM   #266
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Hello !

Please help and advise what are all the models of aftermarket 48 P spur gears that will fit on the Tamiya F1 ? If the hole on their spurs do not fit, we can use different bearing to make it fit on the axle right ? What should the Inner diameter of the bearing be to fit the axle ?

Thank you !
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Old 10-15-2001, 07:15 PM   #267
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Robinson Racing's spur and pinion gear should work...

Darkside: sorry about that....dont got the ball rear suspension, so don't know what it does or how loose should it be...

i think psycho should know this...
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Old 10-15-2001, 07:42 PM   #268
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Well, I think my car still has the stock spur on it, so what type of pinion size is a good starting point for a stock motor.
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Old 10-15-2001, 08:02 PM   #269
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So you got the 63T spur right?
they recommand to start with 18T pinion...i think that's the original one too...
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Old 10-15-2001, 10:11 PM   #270
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Darkside

Check out this webpage. http://www.formula1-rc.com There are two articles on how to set up an F103. They kind of contradict each other, but they're written by two different people. They should give you some ideas about getting your car hooked and also how to adjust the tweak screws.

melvin

Kimbrough makes a 48 pitch 75T spurgear for F1 cars. It says on the package that it's for Cross and Tamiya F1 cars. Sorry, I don't have the part#, but your lhs should have them. Depending on the motor you're running and track layout, I'd go anywhere from 12T to 15T pinion. I run a P2K Pro with the 12/75 combo, but I don't need the top end. You should get around 10 min runtime with matched 2400's.
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