9LikesTamiya F103 Forum
03-27-2016, 06:43 AM
#2116
Tech Regular
Thanks, so a smaller spur is the only way, right? I was afraid of that. I noticed the other motor mount doesn't fit, bummer.
Cheers,
Hugo
Cheers,
Hugo
03-27-2016, 07:02 AM
#2117
Tech Regular
Would this fit?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RW-CNC-SupaStox-Spur-Gear-48DP-64T-CRWS64/272084367283?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkpa rms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc% 3D35958%26meid%3Ddb58a7e15e57460c8c7cd94158d3acdc% 26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D281956290 114
Hugo
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RW-CNC-SupaStox-Spur-Gear-48DP-64T-CRWS64/272084367283?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkpa rms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc% 3D35958%26meid%3Ddb58a7e15e57460c8c7cd94158d3acdc% 26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D281956290 114
Hugo
03-27-2016, 07:57 AM
#2118
Im not 100% sure as the Supastox has its quirks and a few things are different. What rcbuda had mention is an adapter ring that will let you run Pan Car Spur gears, which are standard across the board. you would have to see what size bearing the Supastox runs in the spur to axle interface to know if it will work. But either way you need an adapter ring. Years ago CRP, HPI, Cross and a few others made such rings as well.
03-27-2016, 08:05 AM
#2120
Tech Regular
It looks like plastic to me. I also found Team Associated spurs, 66T. They look more similar to other F1 spurs then the Suprastox one. Would that be a saver choice?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/371564463354...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Cheers,
Hugo
http://www.ebay.com/itm/371564463354...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Cheers,
Hugo
Last edited by HugoW; 03-27-2016 at 08:17 AM.
03-27-2016, 09:22 AM
#2121
It looks like plastic to me. I also found Team Associated spurs, 66T. They look more similar to other F1 spurs then the Suprastox one. Would that be a saver choice?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/371564463354...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Cheers,
Hugo
http://www.ebay.com/itm/371564463354...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Cheers,
Hugo
03-27-2016, 11:55 AM
#2123
Tech Regular
Thanks for all the input. I looked into the SupaStox spur dimensions and I think I can make it fit. I understand the plastic ring to make the other spurs fit, but I would rather machine the hole in the spur a little bigger to make the bearing press fit in.
Cheers,
Hugo
Cheers,
Hugo
03-27-2016, 12:47 PM
#2124
Tech Addict
I think that would be too week, and you loose the adjustment of the spring. I use the softest T-bar, and let the spring do the rest.
Another question, I now have the 54166 motor mount set in place. Looks good. But I have some trouble with the new motor in the TC. We need to run a 21,5T brushless and this requires very different gearing from the Carson Cup Machine we ran in previous years. And it seems that doesn't fit. I fitted 70/30 today (48dp) and that is already tight in the motor mount. I think 31 or 32 would still fit, but the longest track we run at requires 70/38. The only solution I can think of is look for a smaller spur, but I cannot find them a lot smaller at good quality. I now run Exotek spurs.
I also bought a 54356 set:
But I cannot make that fit using original unmodified Tamiya parts, as required by the Tamiya Cup.
Please advise.
Cheers,
Hugo
Another question, I now have the 54166 motor mount set in place. Looks good. But I have some trouble with the new motor in the TC. We need to run a 21,5T brushless and this requires very different gearing from the Carson Cup Machine we ran in previous years. And it seems that doesn't fit. I fitted 70/30 today (48dp) and that is already tight in the motor mount. I think 31 or 32 would still fit, but the longest track we run at requires 70/38. The only solution I can think of is look for a smaller spur, but I cannot find them a lot smaller at good quality. I now run Exotek spurs.
I also bought a 54356 set:
But I cannot make that fit using original unmodified Tamiya parts, as required by the Tamiya Cup.
Please advise.
Cheers,
Hugo
All my racing has been done on asphalt BTW.
I've done most of my racing with the soft t-bar and tamiya F103 option shock/spring. When I went back to the standard T-bar a few months ago, the car seemed to return to straight much better (we are talking about side to side movement). This made the car better to drive. So to me, the standard T-bar is the best one (even on low grip tracks). But the problem is then the suspension seems too hard compared to other F1 cars when you compress the shock (up/down movement). So today I took the spring off and reinstalled the shock. Ride height hopefully wont be a problem, because I have the adjustable axle mounts.
It will be interesting to test in a couple of weeks.
Some of the things that have worked for me very well:
No damper plates (only cause problems!!!)
Fairly tight screws on T-Bar (never leave screws loose as enlongates the holes over time)
Cut front suspension arm mount for more camber
Use F104 aluminium diff assembly
Kimbrough/AE servo saver
3racing grahite lower chassis (seems a good compromise between flex/weight)
The F103 is still an excellent car. I used it to win the New Zealand F1 21.5 Championships recently. This was up against the latest Xray's, Serpents and Tamiya's!
Mike
03-27-2016, 01:21 PM
#2126
Tech Addict
In NZ you can actually run either foam or rubber up to 205mm wide. Of course foam is the tyre to use and most/ nearly all cars are 200mm wide.
03-27-2016, 09:10 PM
#2129
Tech Addict
Gidday its a very simple mod to make the tyres wear flatter. All you need to do is buy the reinforced arm set (i have not tried it on the standard arms, but it might work), and cut/remove the centre posts from the top arms so it can be mounted lower to give more camber. Put washers/ spacers between the top and bottom arm centre mount to get the correct camber.
03-27-2016, 11:46 PM
#2130
Tech Regular
Gidday Hugo,
All my racing has been done on asphalt BTW.
I've done most of my racing with the soft t-bar and tamiya F103 option shock/spring. When I went back to the standard T-bar a few months ago, the car seemed to return to straight much better (we are talking about side to side movement). This made the car better to drive. So to me, the standard T-bar is the best one (even on low grip tracks). But the problem is then the suspension seems too hard compared to other F1 cars when you compress the shock (up/down movement). So today I took the spring off and reinstalled the shock. Ride height hopefully wont be a problem, because I have the adjustable axle mounts.
It will be interesting to test in a couple of weeks.
Some of the things that have worked for me very well:
No damper plates (only cause problems!!!)
Fairly tight screws on T-Bar (never leave screws loose as enlongates the holes over time)
Cut front suspension arm mount for more camber
Use F104 aluminium diff assembly
Kimbrough/AE servo saver
3racing grahite lower chassis (seems a good compromise between flex/weight)
The F103 is still an excellent car. I used it to win the New Zealand F1 21.5 Championships recently. This was up against the latest Xray's, Serpents and Tamiya's!
Mike
All my racing has been done on asphalt BTW.
I've done most of my racing with the soft t-bar and tamiya F103 option shock/spring. When I went back to the standard T-bar a few months ago, the car seemed to return to straight much better (we are talking about side to side movement). This made the car better to drive. So to me, the standard T-bar is the best one (even on low grip tracks). But the problem is then the suspension seems too hard compared to other F1 cars when you compress the shock (up/down movement). So today I took the spring off and reinstalled the shock. Ride height hopefully wont be a problem, because I have the adjustable axle mounts.
It will be interesting to test in a couple of weeks.
Some of the things that have worked for me very well:
No damper plates (only cause problems!!!)
Fairly tight screws on T-Bar (never leave screws loose as enlongates the holes over time)
Cut front suspension arm mount for more camber
Use F104 aluminium diff assembly
Kimbrough/AE servo saver
3racing grahite lower chassis (seems a good compromise between flex/weight)
The F103 is still an excellent car. I used it to win the New Zealand F1 21.5 Championships recently. This was up against the latest Xray's, Serpents and Tamiya's!
Mike
This year's Dutch Tamiya Cup rules shout "F104". Rubber tires (so you need the F104 motor mounts), narrow track (so you need F104 fron suspension), etc. But I managed to fit it all to the F103 back bone, and that is pretty much all that is left of the F103 car... I call it my F103,7. Here's a pic of it's current status, I need to fit ty-wraps trough the holes of the Original battery holders to contain the shorty lipo:
And one more pic of the complete car, as I am very proud of my home made body:
This body has been trimmed too far, I hope to make a new one soon when my new vacuum machine is done. That will be before Christmass, please don't hold me to a year...
Cheers,
Hugo