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Old 04-22-2013, 07:59 AM   #1921
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Just about finished.
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Old 04-22-2013, 08:14 AM   #1922
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Man that looks awesome. Nice work!

Jason
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Old 04-22-2013, 07:03 PM   #1923
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I was going to convert a f103 like you did. Besides the fron end what else did you use to convert it?



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Ok so the upgrade to F104 status has basically been completed. The only thing left to do is a new body. A scheme has been drawn up just needs to be put to plastic. Here are a few pics of what I have done.

Jason
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Old 04-22-2013, 09:12 PM   #1924
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Hi Tony,
Well there are parts that must stay F103 or at least kept F103 for simplicity. But here is a list of the parts I swapped out when I did the conversion.

F104 Front suspension arms (upgrade)
F104 Aluminum Ball diff housing (upgrade)
F104 Aluminum rear motor pod Aluminum sides (upgrade)
F104 Front Wing (upgrade)
F104 Titanium Coated king pins (upgrade)
F104 Low Friction suspension balls (upgrade)
F104 Carbon reinforced front uprights (upgrade)
F104 Carbon Reinforced C Parts (upgrade)
F104 Rear shaft counter weight (upgrade)
F104 Tamiya F104 D Parts - Battery Holder (upgrade)
F103 Standard Length lower deck

I ordered a few pieces each week and in 3 weeks time had what I needed for the conversion. Took me a few days to get it all together once I had the parts but was well worth it. I took 1st this last weekend racing against 3 104V2's and a TRG. Car Handles quite well but still working on getting a bit more steering.

Jason

P.S. Here are 2 pics as a before and after reference.
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Tamiya F103 Forum-img_20130131_201708.jpg   Tamiya F103 Forum-img_20130313_181607.jpg  
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Old 04-23-2013, 04:49 PM   #1925
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Quote:
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I was going to convert a f103 like you did. Besides the fron end what else did you use to convert it?
I run a narrow F103 as well, but kept it to a minimum cost. Parts used were:
Tamiya 51380 F104 D Parts - just for the servo mounts.
Tamiya 51381 F104 F Parts - front suspension arms.
Tamiya 54160 F104 Titanium coated kingpin.
Tamiya 53599 Fluorine Coated 5mm Aluminum Ball Nut - for the inner upper arm mounting.
Tamiya 54161 F104 Low Friction Sus. Ball Set - for the outer pivot balls. Plastic versions of these are included with the F104 F parts but these are smoother.
A pair of 35mm turnbuckles.
Everything else used was taken from the F103 front end, steering arms, screws, springs, e-clips, steering ball joints, etc.

If you have an adjustable ride height F103 rear pod then you don't need to change it to F104 parts, the F103 pod on its lowest setting should be fine. In my case I had the older fixed height rear pod so went for the 3Racing F104-09/LB Motor Mount and 3Racing F104-10/LB Rear Wing Mount parts to make an all alloy rear pod and the Tamiya 3450157 8x16mm spacer to fill the gap on the axle. The F103 diff is also used in the F104 so you don't need any parts to change it .
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Old 04-23-2013, 08:07 PM   #1926
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Fresno and Terry thanks for the parts and parts number. I was wanting to use this with the Exotech conversion but, for now I will just get it slimmed down,

One more question, can I use any touring car shock on the F103 or is there a certain one?
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Old 04-23-2013, 09:41 PM   #1927
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I recently fitted a stock Tamiya plastic touring car shock that used to be on my Mini. I had it already shimmed to work with the mini and it happened to be perfect length for the F103. I am also using a M chassis damper spring in conjunction with it. Working well too.

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Old 04-24-2013, 07:21 PM   #1928
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I tried a HPI adjustable shock I had but the spring was to long. It put to much preload on the rear pod. I have to think of a way to make it work.

Jay, How is your silver can compared to the brushless you are running against?
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Old 04-24-2013, 09:13 PM   #1929
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Tony try some of the Tamiya M Chassis springs. They can go on any shock as long as the shock its on has been shortened to fit the chassis. Well as of now they are sticking to 540J in the class locally. They are still tossing up adding 21.5 later on. The previous races where I was going against brushless it faired ok. But it wasn't geared like it is now. So they could outrun me but had a harder time controlling it. Last weekends run was all 540J so we shall see how it does in the future.

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Old 04-26-2013, 08:38 PM   #1930
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Thanks for the tips Jay. I will be placing an order so I can update the car and get it running.





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Tony try some of the Tamiya M Chassis springs. They can go on any shock as long as the shock its on has been shortened to fit the chassis. Well as of now they are sticking to 540J in the class locally. They are still tossing up adding 21.5 later on. The previous races where I was going against brushless it faired ok. But it wasn't geared like it is now. So they could outrun me but had a harder time controlling it. Last weekends run was all 540J so we shall see how it does in the future.

Jason
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Old 06-09-2013, 01:27 AM   #1931
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Ok well looking for some tips to help fine tune my F103 now that I have run the car in some after the semi-conversion. Here is my current setup:
F104 front end
Tamiya Black front springs
TRF Plastic oil damper 2 hole piston, 40wt, and red fluorescent spring
Tbar front screw with 1mm shim solid and rear O-ring
Front ride height 5mm
Rear 6-6.5mm (not sure made an on the fly adjust ment at the track was 4.5mm)
Front Tires: Pit Shimizu F1
Rear Tires: Ride R1

My issues are currently too much steering for rear traction and bottoming out. I managed to tame it a bit by loosening the rear screw on the Tbar a half turn and raised the rear 1.5mm-2mm. Any further info or tips are greatly appreciated.

Jason
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Old 06-10-2013, 08:17 PM   #1932
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Anyone? Anything?

Jason
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Old 06-10-2013, 09:17 PM   #1933
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just sharing my project F103GT





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Old 06-10-2013, 10:09 PM   #1934
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fresnojay View Post
Ok well looking for some tips to help fine tune my F103 now that I have run the car in some after the semi-conversion. Here is my current setup:
F104 front end
Tamiya Black front springs
TRF Plastic oil damper 2 hole piston, 40wt, and red fluorescent spring
Tbar front screw with 1mm shim solid and rear O-ring
Front ride height 5mm
Rear 6-6.5mm (not sure made an on the fly adjust ment at the track was 4.5mm)
Front Tires: Pit Shimizu F1
Rear Tires: Ride R1

My issues are currently too much steering for rear traction and bottoming out. I managed to tame it a bit by loosening the rear screw on the Tbar a half turn and raised the rear 1.5mm-2mm. Any further info or tips are greatly appreciated.

Jason
3 come straight to my mind that I would try-

1) Get a proper alloy shock - the plastic ones ALWAYS end up leaking and won't control the spring properly.
2) go back to Ride tyres on the front - they under steer more than Pits do apparently
3) Get a softer T-bar

Where are you measuring ride height?
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Old 06-11-2013, 04:26 PM   #1935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShadowAu View Post
3 come straight to my mind that I would try-

1) Get a proper alloy shock - the plastic ones ALWAYS end up leaking and won't control the spring properly.
2) go back to Ride tyres on the front - they under steer more than Pits do apparently
3) Get a softer T-bar

Where are you measuring ride height?
I'd also recommend running the rear ride height lower than the front, motorboat rather than hotrod. That works for me and I'd also run much lighter rear shock oil. I run 15 to 20 wt with the lightest spring I know of which is the gold Miata Mini spring set but the florescent red is pretty soft too.
Also I prefer O rings front and rear on the T plate with the front screw just touching the o ring and the rear even looser but keep the soft T plate in good condition where the screws goes thru, the hole will oval and at that point the T plate is junk and the car will never be right.
Run a short top deck too and if you have a graphite chassis, try to get an FRP Fiberglass chassis for more flex.
This setup also works for me on carpet. Just sayin
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