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Old 09-08-2012, 08:48 PM   #1846
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You should just put an ice cube on the motor and let it melt while your batteries are charging.
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Old 09-09-2012, 02:01 AM   #1847
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In about 1995 a friend found a deal ($89) on the Tamiya F103 Ferrari 412T1 kit, so we each got two. I built one as Berger's 1994 car and he did Alesi. We raced and bashed for several years and kept the extra cars for spares. Then I moved and the car sat till the grandkids came along. Even their bashing didn't require many spare parts, so they lobbied for me to build the second car:



Now the 7-yr-old and 8-yr-old each have a car to run:



The one part that I have had some trouble with is the plastic motor mount, so I ordered a 3racing aluminum one with a fan (the motors - stock 27 turn - get very hot with continual kid bashing). My question is:

Where should I attach the fan wires? Even more important, where should I NOT attach the fan wires? I assume they should be attached to the leads from the battery to the ESC (I use old style - and cheap - 7.2v 1800 mah NiCad stick packs).

Here is the chassis:



Thanks for your help.
Are the fan motors 5v or 7v ?
If 7v then you can wire direct to the battery leads, but .....
If 5v then this would burn out the motor (either soon or later).

Option for 5v:
Wire via a receiver channel.
Use a small LiFe pack for the fan.
Wire to the motor wires (this will have the fan speed change with the motor speed, more power more speed)
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Old 09-09-2012, 08:24 AM   #1848
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7v, I'll hook it up to the battery leads.

Thanks,
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Old 09-13-2012, 02:37 PM   #1849
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hey guys,

im bringing my F103LM back to life how ever after the added brushless motor system i have no grip, doing some research and found that the F104 tires fit in the rear and the front need new bearings. my question is for the bearings do i just get the f104 front end system or just the bearings.

i dont want to pay $30 per tire set, the f104 is half that so this is my reasoning., if i can find just the tires will they fit on the f103 rims??
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Old 09-21-2012, 06:56 AM   #1850
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You can put the F104 tires directly, just swapping front bearings, but the car will be 20 mm narrower at the rear. I tried this, and works well but looks weird.
to put a F104 front end, you will need also the servo support and kingpins.
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Old 09-24-2012, 01:47 PM   #1851
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Originally Posted by Hpimichael View Post
hey guys,

im bringing my F103LM back to life how ever after the added brushless motor system i have no grip, doing some research and found that the F104 tires fit in the rear and the front need new bearings. my question is for the bearings do i just get the f104 front end system or just the bearings.

i dont want to pay $30 per tire set, the f104 is half that so this is my reasoning., if i can find just the tires will they fit on the f103 rims??
If you have the old wheels and can get the foams off of them, you could try these
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Old 09-25-2012, 01:09 PM   #1852
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Would anyone be able to tell me what the best options are for titanium screw sets? I would prefer that they have hex heads on them.
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Old 09-26-2012, 11:21 AM   #1853
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Would anyone be able to tell me what the best options are for titanium screw sets? I would prefer that they have hex heads on them.
I got a set from TRG they are perfect but if you got a 15th Anniversary then you need some more for the Alloy parts
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Old 10-14-2012, 04:27 AM   #1854
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how ever after the added brushless motor system i have no grip
lol!! Mine doesn't stick to the ground not even with a Tamiya Sport Tuned (black can)!!

I took it out to the track today but this car is behaving... useless to say the best. It spins every 5 meters: on throttle, of throttle, half throttle.. it doesn't really matter, it only goes straight.. on straights!

I thought it was the diff at first, so i spent a full night on it. Sanded the plates, used the appropriate oil, took a look at the right position of the conic washers (common mistake from what I've heard) at in the end i got it perfect. It's so extremely smooth it feels better than a gear one. And still no grip..

I tried all the tires combination... still no grip.

I built it scratch from parts and i think i got all the right stuff:
  • 3racing graphite gt chassis
  • standart GT from suspension (The best. I had the 3racing adjustable, but those turnbuckle top arms don't like crashes)
  • 3racing graphite long top deck
  • 3racing graphite t-bar
  • 3racing f103 shock
  • stock front t-bar mount
  • pillow ball rear t-bar mount

I think using the pillow ball on the rear mount helps a lot, it makes the side movement smoother and more spring like. It's only rear compression that seems a little too hard with the graphite t-bar. When on acceleration the car should squat a little and it really doesn't, witch might be a indication.. So, my thoughts now are:
  • Softer tamiya t-bar (maybe will be softer on suspension compression?)
  • Change the motor to silver can

Any opinions? The reason I'm totally lost here it's that my M-04 (also rear wheel drive) drives perfectly in the same track. I mean i could drive circles arround the f103 with it!!
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Old 10-17-2012, 09:10 AM   #1855
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Originally Posted by CondeAfonso View Post
lol!! Mine doesn't stick to the ground not even with a Tamiya Sport Tuned (black can)!!

I took it out to the track today but this car is behaving... useless to say the best. It spins every 5 meters: on throttle, of throttle, half throttle.. it doesn't really matter, it only goes straight.. on straights!

i think i got all the right stuff:
  • 3racing graphite t-bar
  • pillow ball rear t-bar mount

Any opinions?
The pillow ball rear T-bar mount adds considerably to the rear bump stiffness since the pivot is not on the neutral axis of the T-bar. (Most T-bar cars have the pivot ball located in the center of the T-bar's thickness, or Z dimension. On the F103 the pivot ball is above the T-bar. This also raises the roll center as compared to the stock T-bar mount, which reduces rear grip while cornering.) The combination of this and the graphite T-bar means you probably have a spring rate on bump that's way too big, which can make the rear end hop.

Try the fiberglass T-bar, preferably the thinnest (softest) you can find, and the lightest spring you can get for the shock (or no spring at all, if there is sufficient ride height).

I'll assume you are properly doping the rear tires, also.
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Last edited by howardcano; 10-17-2012 at 09:27 AM.
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Old 10-17-2012, 10:34 AM   #1856
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The pillow ball rear T-bar mount adds considerably to the rear bump stiffness since the pivot is not on the neutral axis of the T-bar. (Most T-bar cars have the pivot ball located in the center of the T-bar's thickness, or Z dimension. On the F103 the pivot ball is above the T-bar. This also raises the roll center as compared to the stock T-bar mount, which reduces rear grip while cornering.) The combination of this and the graphite T-bar means you probably have a spring rate on bump that's way too big, which can make the rear end hop.

Try the fiberglass T-bar, preferably the thinnest (softest) you can find, and the lightest spring you can get for the shock (or no spring at all, if there is sufficient ride height).

I'll assume you are properly doping the rear tires, also.
Done. I just changed to the O-ring rear mount to se how it will handle. Will test it sunday monday
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Old 10-17-2012, 02:06 PM   #1857
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For me, it's about tires and weights. Assuming correct tires, time to add tons of weights until handling is ok. There was a time I added 300 grams to the rear pod just to prevent it from spinning out as track grip was non existent.

But nowadays, 70 grams and steel axle in rear pod works most of the time for me. Plus correct tires and traction compound.

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Old 10-21-2012, 12:49 AM   #1858
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Ready for Sunday practice. Taking all kinds of tires with me to see what works.
  • back o-ring mount
  • no spring on shock
  • silver can motor

Lets hope i can drive it now
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Old 10-21-2012, 01:09 AM   #1859
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Try this
Hard front springs, flex T-bar with normall batterymount at the front and ballsuspentionmount at the rear,steel axle, 300 oil in shock, red Tamiya spring, shorty lipo and if you are running on foam, 25 or 30 rear and 40 to 45 front.
For tire liquid try TC5 at the rear and warm the tires so it gets really in there.
Front start with just a thirth of tire liquid and work your way from there


regards Roy


Quote:
Originally Posted by CondeAfonso View Post
Ready for Sunday practice. Taking all kinds of tires with me to see what works.
  • back o-ring mount
  • no spring on shock
  • silver can motor

Lets hope i can drive it now
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Old 10-21-2012, 05:22 AM   #1860
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Try this
Hard front springs, flex T-bar with normall batterymount at the front and ballsuspentionmount at the rear,steel axle, 300 oil in shock, red Tamiya spring, shorty lipo and if you are running on foam, 25 or 30 rear and 40 to 45 front.
For tire liquid try TC5 at the rear and warm the tires so it gets really in there.
Front start with just a thirth of tire liquid and work your way from there


regards Roy
Well actually it perfomed amazing! It had so much grip now that it understeered. I only managed to spin-it on braking and with lots of steering.

It was a fun morning finally
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