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Old 07-11-2012, 10:13 PM   #1786
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Originally Posted by PDR View Post
Maybe I'm confused, this is the F104Pro diff assembly. Where would the thrust bearing go?
Build the F104Pro diff as per the instructions... works heaps better
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Old 07-12-2012, 12:07 AM   #1787
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Replace BA17 with the 1 piece trustbearing and mount the springwashers BA20 like this---> )(

regards Roy


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Originally Posted by PDR View Post
Maybe I'm confused, this is the F104Pro diff assembly. Where would the thrust bearing go?
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Old 07-12-2012, 01:58 AM   #1788
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Thanks for all the replies, but would I use the thrust bearing in the wheel along with the thrust bearing in the 104 diff or would I only use the one in the diff and take the thrust bearing out of my F103 wheel.
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Old 07-12-2012, 03:00 AM   #1789
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@Slowmo.....Noo need to put another trustbearing in the wheel like the F103.
Only in the F104Pro diff is enough.
Then put the wheel on there (F103 or F104) and go have some fun

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Old 07-12-2012, 07:39 AM   #1790
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Thanks Roy I appreciate the reply, and also thankyou to everybody else who replied. Do I have to be careful about the amount of torque I apply to the carbon shaft when I tighten the grub screws down. Is it possible to damage the shaft this way?
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Old 07-12-2012, 08:13 AM   #1791
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As always over tightening is dangerous
You could apply some CA cement to the spot where you use the screw and then carefully sand it down when you have some marks(spilled glue) on the axle.

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Old 07-12-2012, 03:32 PM   #1792
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Hi Guys
Been racing an FGX for a while and have now gone back to the F103 , i bought a mint 103GT because of my stockpile of hex type wheels/tyres ......now whats the easiest way of getting the car close to 200mm width ?? would 8/9 mm wheel hexes be an option or is there a hex style wheel that i could put my Pits and HPI tyres on .....?

thanks Mark M
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Old 07-12-2012, 03:47 PM   #1793
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yokojojo View Post
......now whats the easiest way of getting the car close to 200mm width ??
Along with + offset wheels - you can get the widening kit from 3Racing: +2 offset hubs

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Old 07-12-2012, 03:49 PM   #1794
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Originally Posted by macavant View Post
Along with + offset wheels - you can get the widening kit from 3Racing: +2 offset hubs

Thankyou
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Old 07-17-2012, 05:55 AM   #1795
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Default What speed controls fit

I ordered a new Tamiya F103 2 days ago, went with the Lotus 99T. I have wanted a Tamiya F1 RC since I was about 12, and now at 30 I finally got around to buying one. Anyways I have a spektrum dx2 radio and sr300 receiver so that is covered, I have a servo on the way with the car, and couple of 1800mAh NiMH batteries (don't want to spend the cash on LiPO batteries just yet and I have a really nice NiMH charger already) All I need now is a speed control and this is where I am stuck.

I know the difference between brushless and brushed, but I think brushless is a bit out of range for what I want to spend right now, but if I could get the right price on a brushless ESC I would go for it and then shop around for a decent motor (seems to be easier to find good deals on motors than ESCs) If I go with a brushed system I will probably buy a better motor but not sure yet what turn count I will go with.

So my question is, what ESC brushed or brushless will fit my car without having to cut my chassis or body? What is the max WxLxH (Width x Length x Height) that will fit my 99T F103? I would just measure myself but the car is not here yet, so if anyone has the dimensions handy I would really appreciate it if you would list them.
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Old 07-17-2012, 09:51 AM   #1796
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For the F103, there is plenty of room, so just about any ESC will fit. Even 10 year old ESCs and Receivers will fit side by side in front of the battery tray without interference from the body. Most modern electrics will fit in-line between the servo and the battery tray to keep the weight centralised.

Some ESCs may need to have the fan removed to fit properly. You don't really need the fan as it is a very light car, 1100-1200g, direct-drive, and is plenty fast with the stock Mabuchi/Johnson silver-can motor.

I can vouch for US locations only, but the most popular race series, UF1, Tamiya and ROAR will only allow the stock silver-can motor if using a brushed system, or a 21.5/non-timing motor/esc combo if going brushless. When properly broken-in, the silver-can motor can keep up and even be faster than the brushless systems, though at the expense of efficiency and longevity. In my testing, you will probably get about 16-20 good runs (6-10 minute heats), until you have to either water-dip/polish the commutator on the silver-can to clean it or throw it away and spend another $10 on a new one. After the second 16 run cycle, performance just rapidly drops--I don't know if it's from heat soak on the magnets or just the commutator slowly being burned (when it's bluish-purple, it is beyond worn). That's the reason why people go with the brushless in that your performance is more consistent as there is no contact/wear parts other than the bearings.
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Old 07-17-2012, 11:30 AM   #1797
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I have the same 103 that you just ordered. I use a Castle Sidewinder SV2 in mine and it works great. This control works either brushed or brushless so you can use the silver can now and always switch over to a brushless motor later if you choose. Just remember to go through the settings and set it to run in brushed mode or it won't run correctly.
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Old 07-17-2012, 01:07 PM   #1798
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Thanks for the replies TwoWheel, and slowmotion36. I checked out the Sidewinder and liked what I saw, so I found a good deal on a new Sidewinder and placed an order.
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Old 07-28-2012, 01:51 PM   #1799
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Default Motor Mount

The F103 that I try to keep running for the grandkids just had the left rear axle mounting point smashed out of the motor mount 'cage'. What is the most durable replacement for an F103 motor mount just used for 'bashing' (in every sense of the word)?

Thanks,
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Old 07-28-2012, 06:35 PM   #1800
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Default Motor Mount

Has anyone tried this motor mount for an original F103?

GPM ALLOY ALUMINUM REAR MOTOR MOUNT SILVER TAMIYA F103 F103RM F103GT

Thanks,
David
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