2LikesGM Brushless
09-03-2009, 07:14 AM
#916
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Hi Martin!
I fired up evo 3 10.5T (got about 130C and plastics from wires fall down...),
so
rotor 12.5mm got only one run if it is still usable or one temp like that and
rotor is fu....
Regards!
m.
ps: I will try rebuilt some other engine with this rotor ... ~20Euros go away ...
I fired up evo 3 10.5T (got about 130C and plastics from wires fall down...),
so
rotor 12.5mm got only one run if it is still usable or one temp like that and rotor is fu....
Regards!
m.
ps: I will try rebuilt some other engine with this rotor ... ~20Euros go away ...
09-03-2009, 07:22 AM
#917
My friend, you can still practice with this rotor, but no good results during competition....
09-04-2009, 04:41 AM
#918
Tech Regular
GM 10.5 advise
Iam moving up to 10.5 and have just bought a GM 10.5. I run an xray 09 with lipo and a speedpassion GT2 pro esc. Has any one run this motor with a GT2 ?? what settings did you run. Also does this motor come with fixing or adjustable timing as standard. Any other info you guys think I should know about this motor and 10.5 in general would be help full.
Thanks
Thanks
09-04-2009, 09:07 AM
#919
Thanks Martin its been ripped off now =P.
Flatout,
Havnt run the gm 10.5 motor with a GT2 esc only a GM 120. All GM motors have fixed timing as standard but the variable timing end plates are available. Generally the GM motor runs cooler due to the big cooling holes.
-Hope this helps
-Jonny
Flatout,
Havnt run the gm 10.5 motor with a GT2 esc only a GM 120. All GM motors have fixed timing as standard but the variable timing end plates are available. Generally the GM motor runs cooler due to the big cooling holes.
-Hope this helps
-Jonny
09-04-2009, 12:04 PM
#920
Tech Regular
Thanks Martin its been ripped off now =P.
Flatout,
Havnt run the gm 10.5 motor with a GT2 esc only a GM 120. All GM motors have fixed timing as standard but the variable timing end plates are available. Generally the GM motor runs cooler due to the big cooling holes.
-Hope this helps
-Jonny
Flatout,
Havnt run the gm 10.5 motor with a GT2 esc only a GM 120. All GM motors have fixed timing as standard but the variable timing end plates are available. Generally the GM motor runs cooler due to the big cooling holes.
-Hope this helps
-Jonny
Thanks Again
Adrian
09-05-2009, 07:01 AM
#921
Hi adrian, Sorry for the late reply. I always run the motor as standard i know some people who have tried the variable timing plate and then having to turn the motor timing down into minus's so theres not much point. A good starting point for cotswolds is about 4.5.
Jonny
Jonny
09-05-2009, 07:29 AM
#922
it should be noted that the variable timing plate isn't legal for 10.5 and mod in the uk.....
09-05-2009, 09:08 AM
#923
Tech Regular
09-05-2009, 01:57 PM
#924
Anyone know the standard rotor size that comes in the GM 6t delta?
Assuming its not a 12.3 what benifit would the 12.3 give me to the standard rotor?
Thanks
-Jonny
Assuming its not a 12.3 what benifit would the 12.3 give me to the standard rotor?
Thanks
-Jonny
09-05-2009, 03:52 PM
#925
Tech Master
The last 6 turn I had came with a red ringed rotor which is 12.5mm - which IMHO is probably the best all round rotor for mod racing. The 12.3 (purple ring) is a lot weaker as the core of the rotor/shaft diameter is 7.3ish rather than 5mm ish (it's a long time since i bothered to measure them - hence i'm not 100% sure!) so there is quite a lot less "magnet".
The weaker rotor will obviously have more RPM and less torque, but personally i'm not convinced i'd run it in a 6 turn - BUT, I haven't tried it.
The weaker rotor will obviously have more RPM and less torque, but personally i'm not convinced i'd run it in a 6 turn - BUT, I haven't tried it.
09-07-2009, 07:06 AM
#927
Hi I have GM120 and Novak 10.5. Both are new. Its hesitant from zero revs 1 time in 5 and the car has not been put on the track yet. I continuity tested sensor cable and board on motor and they seem fine. My Tekin RS and BMC are butter smooth. Is this thing a dud? Am I missing something? Any ideas?
09-07-2009, 10:23 AM
#928
Rogier,
the GM 120 is great indoors, you dont really need to change much in 13.5 just get a good gear ratio and maybe turn your amp limit down.
hana166,
I'd recomend re-doing the transmitter and take ur time in doing this. U MUST hold throttle and brake for 3 seconds and let it go back to neutral for a second in between modes. PS: if the cogging is very minor in the pits you probably wont feel it on the track.
-Jonny
the GM 120 is great indoors, you dont really need to change much in 13.5 just get a good gear ratio and maybe turn your amp limit down.
hana166,
I'd recomend re-doing the transmitter and take ur time in doing this. U MUST hold throttle and brake for 3 seconds and let it go back to neutral for a second in between modes. PS: if the cogging is very minor in the pits you probably wont feel it on the track.
-Jonny
09-07-2009, 11:33 AM
#929
Thanks jonny123 I will try this. There is a connector/converter sensor cable included, and I have found a dry joint in the connector which is poorly assembled. I have fixed it and it seems better but not perfect. I have ordered cable 2894.4 so I can go direct from motor to ESC.
I had a few laps with it, the power is absolutely incredible. I suppose its just a matter of experimenting with gearing, motor timing and profile to get the temps acceptable.
It has firmware 4.9, I wonder if the later versions are more refined in the delivery?
I had a few laps with it, the power is absolutely incredible. I suppose its just a matter of experimenting with gearing, motor timing and profile to get the temps acceptable.
It has firmware 4.9, I wonder if the later versions are more refined in the delivery?
09-08-2009, 02:41 AM
#930
the only way you can weaken your rotor (if it'S a gm) is by heating up the rotor not the motor! and that you can only achieve when the air/track temp is super high, you disable the current limiter and have a 180° turn at the end of a atleast 55m long straightaway ... then you might eventually demagnetize the rotor
other than that it's fine
The last 6 turn I had came with a red ringed rotor which is 12.5mm - which IMHO is probably the best all round rotor for mod racing. The 12.3 (purple ring) is a lot weaker as the core of the rotor/shaft diameter is 7.3ish rather than 5mm ish (it's a long time since i bothered to measure them - hence i'm not 100% sure!) so there is quite a lot less "magnet".
The weaker rotor will obviously have more RPM and less torque, but personally i'm not convinced i'd run it in a 6 turn - BUT, I haven't tried it.
The weaker rotor will obviously have more RPM and less torque, but personally i'm not convinced i'd run it in a 6 turn - BUT, I haven't tried it.
we use the 12.5mm rotor (red faceplate) in every motor/winding actually ... no need for somthing else
Thanks jonny123 I will try this. There is a connector/converter sensor cable included, and I have found a dry joint in the connector which is poorly assembled. I have fixed it and it seems better but not perfect. I have ordered cable 2894.4 so I can go direct from motor to ESC.
I had a few laps with it, the power is absolutely incredible. I suppose its just a matter of experimenting with gearing, motor timing and profile to get the temps acceptable.
It has firmware 4.9, I wonder if the later versions are more refined in the delivery?
I had a few laps with it, the power is absolutely incredible. I suppose its just a matter of experimenting with gearing, motor timing and profile to get the temps acceptable.
It has firmware 4.9, I wonder if the later versions are more refined in the delivery?
this has been fixed with fw7.2 butas said it only occures from time to time and then very minor and not while driving
note! don't let your car be pushed backwards at the start as this will cause cogging as the speedo needs to find the magnet first