2LikesGM Brushless
02-08-2011, 02:03 PM
#2326
Tech Adept
It's a little unusual, ususally everything is within the zip file - however, for v13 doesn't seem it is.
However, it is part of the v13.1 download - so you may as well use that!!
http://www.gm-racing.de/rwdownload/index.php?dl=155
However, it is part of the v13.1 download - so you may as well use that!!
http://www.gm-racing.de/rwdownload/index.php?dl=155
02-08-2011, 04:34 PM
#2327
hi someone could send a file for stock v13 with powerful configuration with turbo
Last edited by fernan10; 02-08-2011 at 11:53 PM.
02-18-2011, 11:18 AM
#2329
Hi all
Just got my first gm120 (second hand) it's a 2010 spec and just upgraded to firmware 13.
I now am totally lost as to the settings in the programming menus in the setup software and what they do and how they should be adjusted to suit different motors and tracks. Is there a guide as to settings and what each slider does?
I race 13.5 predominately indoor on carpet with a schumacher mi4 cx/lp but plan on outdoor racing too Thai year. I've read through this forum but still not sure. Do I just follow the instructions in the stock how to and am good to go? I really don't want to fry anything - can't afford it!
Any tips and advice would be great
Cheers
Just got my first gm120 (second hand) it's a 2010 spec and just upgraded to firmware 13.
I now am totally lost as to the settings in the programming menus in the setup software and what they do and how they should be adjusted to suit different motors and tracks. Is there a guide as to settings and what each slider does?
I race 13.5 predominately indoor on carpet with a schumacher mi4 cx/lp but plan on outdoor racing too Thai year. I've read through this forum but still not sure. Do I just follow the instructions in the stock how to and am good to go? I really don't want to fry anything - can't afford it!
Any tips and advice would be great
Cheers
02-18-2011, 12:05 PM
#2330
Tech Adept
02-19-2011, 12:23 AM
#2331
Please tell me about GM75 for 12th modified application.
I have never used GM75, but I would like to get and test GM75 this year.
now I use Advanced Electronics
Black Diamond V2 and LRP SXX V2 with Trinity D3 4.0T, X12 3.5T and 4.0T octa.
1. Software.
When I will buy GM75, I think that ESC, if only, can limited program like as other ESC.
However this might be for stock motor, in modified 1/12th should I buy with USB Link kit?
http://www.graupner.de/en/products/c...6/product.aspx
2. GM 75 needs for sensor mode use Sensor adaptor cable for Reedy/LRP-Motors?
http://www.graupner.de/en/products/c...8/product.aspx
I have never used GM75, but I would like to get and test GM75 this year.
now I use Advanced Electronics
Black Diamond V2 and LRP SXX V2 with Trinity D3 4.0T, X12 3.5T and 4.0T octa.
1. Software.
When I will buy GM75, I think that ESC, if only, can limited program like as other ESC.
However this might be for stock motor, in modified 1/12th should I buy with USB Link kit?
http://www.graupner.de/en/products/c...6/product.aspx
2. GM 75 needs for sensor mode use Sensor adaptor cable for Reedy/LRP-Motors?
http://www.graupner.de/en/products/c...8/product.aspx
02-19-2011, 12:37 AM
#2332
This is a good start HOW TO GUIDE
Cheers
02-19-2011, 03:17 AM
#2333
Tech Adept
Hi Mutley
I'll try and give you bit of a guide. Most in stock class work from profile 8/9. 9 is pretty much the upper limits of the controller with regards to timing and power, but the is still more left. Also worth noting that if you do adjust a profile you will modify that profile. You can do a factory reset and get it back to standard if you mess up.
I tend to save a profile, say 9, then set the controller to something i wont use like profile 3. Then load your saved profile 9 and load it into 3. This way you will have two of the same profiles, one in slot 3 and the other in 9. This way you can modify setting in 3 and you always have 9 to go back to.
Once you get things such as your lipo voltage set and few other baseline preferences it really isn't a tricky as it first looks. On a meet to meet bases there are only a few things i change which i would say is only necessary for very fine tuning anyway. Main things you want to be looking at chaging are:-
Start amp- Basically controls power off the line after neutral throttle for a few seconds. You pretty much need two numbers for this, one for carpet one for tarmac. lower number lower power and great for finding traction off the line.
AMP limit. If you have too much punch lower it. If you find you are sluggish on the strait, increase. Very useful for finding corner exit speed. A kind of less power is more benefit.
Switching point rpm. Sets the rpm on when timing comes in. I like not to use this but some of my motors don't and rock on the line so have to use it. But is can also make the throttle more forgiving on slower sections if you use it and increase the number.
High speed timing. Have on
High speed timing from switch point controls if switching point rpm works or not.
Fixed timing. Your main timing control. I start with about 10 Degrees, find the motors sweet point on the gearing then add as much timing as i can until heat becomes and issue. You can set heat shut off point on the other software page so look up your motor suggestion on the HOW TO, set it to that and trust it. You can really push motors hard with this controller without trashing them. Just make sure the safety setting are correct for your motor and it has temp sensors built in.
Max timing. Set it to 1 above your timing. This is a start line feature and will give you a boost if you're starting at the beginning of a long straight.
Variable dependence timing. I always use this as it gives the throttle a very progressive feel. Basically it adds timing as you add the throttle. 1-2-3-4-5---100% throttle will give you 1-2-3-4-5---100% of your selected timing input. This also means you can gear a lot harder than with some other controllers as you're keeping the timing levels down and things cool until you need it for the straights.
That should give you something to play with for the weekend. Braking page can be tricky to get right but the brakes, or the way you can find braking grip with this controller is very impressive. Have a play with them and if you are still struggling get back to me.
I'll try and give you bit of a guide. Most in stock class work from profile 8/9. 9 is pretty much the upper limits of the controller with regards to timing and power, but the is still more left. Also worth noting that if you do adjust a profile you will modify that profile. You can do a factory reset and get it back to standard if you mess up.
I tend to save a profile, say 9, then set the controller to something i wont use like profile 3. Then load your saved profile 9 and load it into 3. This way you will have two of the same profiles, one in slot 3 and the other in 9. This way you can modify setting in 3 and you always have 9 to go back to.
Once you get things such as your lipo voltage set and few other baseline preferences it really isn't a tricky as it first looks. On a meet to meet bases there are only a few things i change which i would say is only necessary for very fine tuning anyway. Main things you want to be looking at chaging are:-
Start amp- Basically controls power off the line after neutral throttle for a few seconds. You pretty much need two numbers for this, one for carpet one for tarmac. lower number lower power and great for finding traction off the line.
AMP limit. If you have too much punch lower it. If you find you are sluggish on the strait, increase. Very useful for finding corner exit speed. A kind of less power is more benefit.
Switching point rpm. Sets the rpm on when timing comes in. I like not to use this but some of my motors don't and rock on the line so have to use it. But is can also make the throttle more forgiving on slower sections if you use it and increase the number.
High speed timing. Have on
High speed timing from switch point controls if switching point rpm works or not.
Fixed timing. Your main timing control. I start with about 10 Degrees, find the motors sweet point on the gearing then add as much timing as i can until heat becomes and issue. You can set heat shut off point on the other software page so look up your motor suggestion on the HOW TO, set it to that and trust it. You can really push motors hard with this controller without trashing them. Just make sure the safety setting are correct for your motor and it has temp sensors built in.
Max timing. Set it to 1 above your timing. This is a start line feature and will give you a boost if you're starting at the beginning of a long straight.
Variable dependence timing. I always use this as it gives the throttle a very progressive feel. Basically it adds timing as you add the throttle. 1-2-3-4-5---100% throttle will give you 1-2-3-4-5---100% of your selected timing input. This also means you can gear a lot harder than with some other controllers as you're keeping the timing levels down and things cool until you need it for the straights.
That should give you something to play with for the weekend. Braking page can be tricky to get right but the brakes, or the way you can find braking grip with this controller is very impressive. Have a play with them and if you are still struggling get back to me.
02-19-2011, 05:14 AM
#2334
Hi Mutley
I'll try and give you bit of a guide. Most in stock class work from profile 8/9. 9 is pretty much the upper limits of the controller with regards to timing and power, but the is still more left. Also worth noting that if you do adjust a profile you will modify that profile. You can do a factory reset and get it back to standard if you mess up.
I tend to save a profile, say 9, then set the controller to something i wont use like profile 3. Then load your saved profile 9 and load it into 3. This way you will have two of the same profiles, one in slot 3 and the other in 9. This way you can modify setting in 3 and you always have 9 to go back to.
Once you get things such as your lipo voltage set and few other baseline preferences it really isn't a tricky as it first looks. On a meet to meet bases there are only a few things i change which i would say is only necessary for very fine tuning anyway. Main things you want to be looking at chaging are:-
Start amp- Basically controls power off the line after neutral throttle for a few seconds. You pretty much need two numbers for this, one for carpet one for tarmac. lower number lower power and great for finding traction off the line.
AMP limit. If you have too much punch lower it. If you find you are sluggish on the strait, increase. Very useful for finding corner exit speed. A kind of less power is more benefit.
Switching point rpm. Sets the rpm on when timing comes in. I like not to use this but some of my motors don't and rock on the line so have to use it. But is can also make the throttle more forgiving on slower sections if you use it and increase the number.
High speed timing. Have on
High speed timing from switch point controls if switching point rpm works or not.
Fixed timing. Your main timing control. I start with about 10 Degrees, find the motors sweet point on the gearing then add as much timing as i can until heat becomes and issue. You can set heat shut off point on the other software page so look up your motor suggestion on the HOW TO, set it to that and trust it. You can really push motors hard with this controller without trashing them. Just make sure the safety setting are correct for your motor and it has temp sensors built in.
Max timing. Set it to 1 above your timing. This is a start line feature and will give you a boost if you're starting at the beginning of a long straight.
Variable dependence timing. I always use this as it gives the throttle a very progressive feel. Basically it adds timing as you add the throttle. 1-2-3-4-5---100% throttle will give you 1-2-3-4-5---100% of your selected timing input. This also means you can gear a lot harder than with some other controllers as you're keeping the timing levels down and things cool until you need it for the straights.
That should give you something to play with for the weekend. Braking page can be tricky to get right but the brakes, or the way you can find braking grip with this controller is very impressive. Have a play with them and if you are still struggling get back to me.
I'll try and give you bit of a guide. Most in stock class work from profile 8/9. 9 is pretty much the upper limits of the controller with regards to timing and power, but the is still more left. Also worth noting that if you do adjust a profile you will modify that profile. You can do a factory reset and get it back to standard if you mess up.
I tend to save a profile, say 9, then set the controller to something i wont use like profile 3. Then load your saved profile 9 and load it into 3. This way you will have two of the same profiles, one in slot 3 and the other in 9. This way you can modify setting in 3 and you always have 9 to go back to.
Once you get things such as your lipo voltage set and few other baseline preferences it really isn't a tricky as it first looks. On a meet to meet bases there are only a few things i change which i would say is only necessary for very fine tuning anyway. Main things you want to be looking at chaging are:-
Start amp- Basically controls power off the line after neutral throttle for a few seconds. You pretty much need two numbers for this, one for carpet one for tarmac. lower number lower power and great for finding traction off the line.
AMP limit. If you have too much punch lower it. If you find you are sluggish on the strait, increase. Very useful for finding corner exit speed. A kind of less power is more benefit.
Switching point rpm. Sets the rpm on when timing comes in. I like not to use this but some of my motors don't and rock on the line so have to use it. But is can also make the throttle more forgiving on slower sections if you use it and increase the number.
High speed timing. Have on
High speed timing from switch point controls if switching point rpm works or not.
Fixed timing. Your main timing control. I start with about 10 Degrees, find the motors sweet point on the gearing then add as much timing as i can until heat becomes and issue. You can set heat shut off point on the other software page so look up your motor suggestion on the HOW TO, set it to that and trust it. You can really push motors hard with this controller without trashing them. Just make sure the safety setting are correct for your motor and it has temp sensors built in.
Max timing. Set it to 1 above your timing. This is a start line feature and will give you a boost if you're starting at the beginning of a long straight.
Variable dependence timing. I always use this as it gives the throttle a very progressive feel. Basically it adds timing as you add the throttle. 1-2-3-4-5---100% throttle will give you 1-2-3-4-5---100% of your selected timing input. This also means you can gear a lot harder than with some other controllers as you're keeping the timing levels down and things cool until you need it for the straights.
That should give you something to play with for the weekend. Braking page can be tricky to get right but the brakes, or the way you can find braking grip with this controller is very impressive. Have a play with them and if you are still struggling get back to me.
I have my first meeting on Sunday with it and am looking forward to seeing if it's better than my Tekin
Thanks again
Paul
02-19-2011, 01:10 PM
#2335
Tech Addict
YZFAndy nice work for the team.
Once you have time give us a help with your method to achieve the motors sweet spot on the gearing and the braking page.
Once again, great work.
Once you have time give us a help with your method to achieve the motors sweet spot on the gearing and the braking page.
Once again, great work.
02-22-2011, 12:35 PM
#2336
Tech Apprentice
any advice please
I'm running gm75 13.1 firm wear and gm13.5(97303) motor 5.99 overall.
and using mode 7 on the esc.
quite like the feel of this mode but I'm getting slight cogging on the line.
I'm sure that the program wants a little tweek, what do I do? any help guys
I'm running gm75 13.1 firm wear and gm13.5(97303) motor 5.99 overall.
and using mode 7 on the esc.
quite like the feel of this mode but I'm getting slight cogging on the line.
I'm sure that the program wants a little tweek, what do I do? any help guys
02-22-2011, 01:18 PM
#2337
Need a bit of gearing advice guys.
I'm gonna be running an 8T Delta sensorless this weekend hopefully. I would run it sensored but I'm convinced the sensor board on the motor is dodgy and haven't had time to get a new one yet.
The track is outdoor tarmac and is pretty massive, its used a lot for 1/5th scale. The main straight you can see is shared with a kart track.
http://www.wombwelllargescalechampio....uk/track.html
Not really got a clue where to gear for this track and motor combo, anyone have a good idea where to start?
I'm gonna be running an 8T Delta sensorless this weekend hopefully. I would run it sensored but I'm convinced the sensor board on the motor is dodgy and haven't had time to get a new one yet.
The track is outdoor tarmac and is pretty massive, its used a lot for 1/5th scale. The main straight you can see is shared with a kart track.
http://www.wombwelllargescalechampio....uk/track.html
Not really got a clue where to gear for this track and motor combo, anyone have a good idea where to start?
02-22-2011, 02:22 PM
#2338
Tech Master
Sensored is what we've tended to run for a while. However, I did test sensorless with an 8T quite a lot at the start of last summer. At Halifax and Cotswolds I ran in the 6.0 - 6.3 range and it seemed to work out quite well actually. This was with an old spec ESC, but I presume it would be ok with a new one.
02-22-2011, 02:46 PM
#2339
Sensored is what we've tended to run for a while. However, I did test sensorless with an 8T quite a lot at the start of last summer. At Halifax and Cotswolds I ran in the 6.0 - 6.3 range and it seemed to work out quite well actually. This was with an old spec ESC, but I presume it would be ok with a new one.
Cheers Matt, just the info I was looking for.
When I get a new sensor board I'll run it sensored with a mild bit of timing, I know it'll be a little faster that way.
Should still be rapid in this config though right? What kind of gearing would I be looking at for indoors, like Ardent? About 8ish?
How much timing might you guys run on a mod both indoors and out?
Sorry for al the questions, just interested in running a little mod with this motor and really have no idea where to start gearing the bugger with and without timing/sensors.
02-23-2011, 06:14 AM
#2340
Tech Rookie
Need a bit of gearing advice guys.
I'm gonna be running an 8T Delta sensorless this weekend hopefully. I would run it sensored but I'm convinced the sensor board on the motor is dodgy and haven't had time to get a new one yet.
The track is outdoor tarmac and is pretty massive, its used a lot for 1/5th scale. The main straight you can see is shared with a kart track.
Not really got a clue where to gear for this track and motor combo, anyone have a good idea where to start?
I'm gonna be running an 8T Delta sensorless this weekend hopefully. I would run it sensored but I'm convinced the sensor board on the motor is dodgy and haven't had time to get a new one yet.
The track is outdoor tarmac and is pretty massive, its used a lot for 1/5th scale. The main straight you can see is shared with a kart track.
Not really got a clue where to gear for this track and motor combo, anyone have a good idea where to start?
My rain car is running an GM 8T Delta. The tips from Martin in this thread, gave the car similar speed as a 4.5t in normal sensored mode.
Which is fast enough for a rain car
J.